Gareth B

Sounds like the consensus is to bin it. I'll take it out tonight, cheers guys.

I have used the Loctite sealant, which states its specifically for water applications around the engine bay (water pump, thermostat etc). Got it from Halfords for about £5 for the tube. I can't remember what number it is (all Loctite stuff has a 3 digit 'reference' for a name), but I'll have a look when I get home from work if you want. Gareth

I've got my rad out at the moment whilst doing the front water pipes and I have noticed that the condensor for the air conditioning must have a huge affect on the radiators efficiency as it sits in front of the radiator, restricting air flow considerably. My air con has been junked already (no compressor etc), so is there any reason I should leave the condensor in place? I'm sure if I take it out the car will run better/cooler, this can't be a bad thing considering how hot the engine runs. :confused: :confused: Anyone out there removed theirs? Thanks, Gareth

Machine Mart also sell them, can't remember how much they cost but they do a few different sets. HTH Gareth

Told you ! :x: thats why I bought a set of allen key sockets for my socket set in the end... (sorry to hear you're having trouble though :( , its a piece of piss after the allen bolts are undone ;) )

Im in the process of replacing these hoses at the moment. You need to remove the fan cowl (top & bottom), the viscous fan and the top water pipe (although I removed both top & bottom for better access). Its a fiddly job but very do'able, you may need to buy a long reach 6mm allen key or socket for your socket set as the three bolts holding the top pipe on are set back quite a way and WILL be tight! HTH Gareth

Bottom half of shroud is clipped to top half, just pulls off from below. The top half is bolted to the radiator at the top at either side and at the bottom (4 bolts in total). Once you pull the bottom piece off its dead obvious what to do. HTH Gareth

Sorry to hear about this mate, big respect for taking it on the chin so well... :bow: I'm sure you're looking at it as a means to an end. Gareth

Just wondering, would this also be the case if you fitted an ECU from an auto to a manual? I have an auto ECU in my manual car (though it has been socketed and a manual JWT chip fitted)? :confused:

This may be a stupid question to ask, but how would you know if your water pump has packed up?. I know they can start leaking which is obvious to spot, but that wouldn't stop the pump circulating coolant. How do you check that its still pumping the coolant around the engine, leak or not? Cheers...

You may have fried it, sorry. I had an ECU go on me, the ignition was staying live when you turned the key off so you couldn't turn the car off! The only thing I could attribute it to was jump starting it about a week earlier. Try and borrow another ECU and try that. Gareth

I know one of the 2 small hoses on the front has a split in it but I'm going to strip out the rad and fan to check further. I'm just having difficulty in understanding if the overheating and non-starting are related :confused: . I'm pretty sure they must be so I'm going to investigate the compression tomorrow as you suggested. Thanks

Both temperature sensors are nearly new (as are the harnesses), but I will check that in the morning for good clean connections. Cheers

Thanks for that Greg, I just need some ideas of tests to do to eliminate possibilities. I'll see about borrowing a compression tester and try that as well.

On saturday I did a small run in my car (about 4 miles) to try my new ecu chip. When I got back home I noticed that the car dropped about a cup of water on the drive whilst I opened the garage door. When in the garage I realised the engine sounded really rattley on the top end so I switched it off (temperature gauge still on normal though). It made quite a lot of gurgling and hissing sounds around the balance bar area, the leak continued for a short while. I topped up the radiator (it needed lots to top up), and decided to leave it to cool down before I looked for the fault. Yesterday I went into the garage to start investigations and it looked like the leak had continued as I needed to top the radiator up again. It looks like the culprit is either the two small rubber hoses at the front of the engine or the water pump itself. It was hard to tell so I decided to get it up on ramps to have a look from underneath. The problem then transpired that the car would turn over but wouldn't fire up. I did a few quick checks, code 55 on ecu and also on another spare ecu I've got. Swapped relay for fuel pump to ensure its getting petrol. Still wouldn't start. I'm worried that the water loss at the weekend has caused some damage to the engine (even though the temperature gauge never went above normal). Would a head gasket or warped head stop the car from starting?? I can't see any emulsion in the coolant to suggest a head gaket. Whats concerning me is that there seems to be water 'missing', the amount I'm topping the radiator up with doesn't seem to be the same as what is leaking out? Its not evaporating as the engine is obviously stone cold. I guess I'm looking for ideas for fault finding, I plan to do the following over xmas: Check for spark (PTU fault) Check condition of plugs (although they have only done about 1000 miles) Check for fuel pressure (whats the best/safest way?) Fix water leak! If it doesn't start after checking fuel and spark then what should I look at next? Any suggestions would be great. I'm trying not to jump to (big) conclusions, but knowing my luck then the engine is shagged. Cheers Gareth

My thoughts are with you and your family, my stepdad went a similar way a couple of years ago. Its damn hard to get over it but my advice is to remember the good times and how he was before the illness, not the last few days/weeks. I'm sure thats what he would want. Gareth

http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/vbgarage.php?do=getimage&id=2511

I think these are the ones that Kirbz has just put on his new silver zed. They looked really good and filled the arches well, (the enormous AP Racing brakes he has also enhanced the looks the bit extra :bow: )

Isn't the Nissan 200SX called the 240 in the states as its a different engine (N/A)? Is that what you are on about???

Absolutely amazing work. Not a great deal else I can say mate :bow: :bow:

bump...!!! :D

yet another problem... :( The car dumped some water on Saturday, it seemed to be coming from the back of the engine or the bulkhead. The heater wasn't working well either so I think its the hoses that are at the back of the engine for the matrix (theres no water in the footwells so it doesn't appear to be the matrix itself). Does anyone know of an online guide anywhere to replacing these hoses and also what the part numbers are for them? Thanks.

Oops, sorry Andy, didn't realise!!! Can you PM details me about the 'map 2' version of the chip? I may be interested in one of these when you do the socketing on my ecu this weekend. Thanks.

Anyone know much about the Nisstek ECU chips on e-bay at the moment? There's some very interesting dyno comparisons between them and the JWT chip (which I'm about to fit). Some parts of the dyno graphs show 40bhp improvement over the JWT!. I'm now not sure whether one of these chips may be a better long term prospect. Cheers Gareth linky...

I'd already printed that off but thanks for the help :D What I was looking for was a better image of how the funny plate thing at the top is mounted. It may be just as easy to take the other side off and copy that. I knew I should have got the digi camera out earlier!!!