Gareth B

Terrible to hear this, my thoughts are with you and the kids. Be strong. Gareth

:cool: Very nice - love the colour.

Don't know about a full respray but mines in the body shop at the moment having the rear arches and sills repaired. To repair and respray both rear quarter panels they are charging £100 a side. Thats respraying the entire panels as well, not just the repaired areas.

If someone wants to drop out I wouldn't mind sticking my name forward to get things moving. Let me know.

Yes but you need either a LCD, plasma or CRT tv to watch it on :D Most of the HDTV ready screens at the moment are LCD, although most of the major manufacturers are broadening their products compatibility as Sky intends to start trialling transmissions next year.

LCD does look impressive on a small screen but even the best 32" lcd tv's only have 1366 x 768 pixels resolution. That sort of resolution may look ok on a 17" pc monitor, but on a 32" + tv the picture quality does start to suffer quite a lot. Thats my concern. Still wouldn't say no to one though... ;)

CRT- Currently still best picture quality (more lines of info on screen) and cheaper, but very bulky/heavy and not many are future proof with new HDTV arriving in next 2-3 years. Old technology but still going to be around for a while. LCD- Very slim, very clear/sharp image, bright picture, but picture can be very grainy due to pixel size and unless you sit directly in front of the screen some are difficult to see (prices are coming down FAST though). Many are future proof PLASMA- slim again, good bright image and contrast, coming down in price. Some of the cheaper ones though are CRAP picture quality and therefore false economy. Again many are future proof. If you go for a LCD or plasma, try and get them to put on an action movie in the demo as some flatscreens suffer from image smearing on fast moving objects on screen. Also try to view something which has a lot of dark colours on screen to see how good the contrast is. Hope this helps. Gareth

Mixture would be good, I would come along...

The DO sell them, they just don't know they do!! I bought one from them, a Champion one ref: C109. The oil filter is the same as quite a few other Nissans, including the Micra I believe!

Bloody hell, £41.40 for Toyo Proxes for my Vectra (tyres are balder than Kojak!) Methinks I will be ordering some of these...!

I bet you can't wait!!! I'm off to Mexico on the 19th for a fortnight - I'm already on work wind down. The boss doesn't seem to have noticed the difference though :confused: :D

Next on my list of jobs to do is an oil change. I have bought some Mobil 1 5w-50 fully synthetic oil and a new filter. What I want to know is whether it is worthwhile doing an oil change with a 'cheap' mineral oil first to clean the engine out?. I am not sure when the last oil change was done and so I was wondering if doing this intermediate oil change could be beneficial. I understand the potential problems of using a flushing oil and so I thought that using a cheap oil as a 'flush' could provide some of the benefits with none of the nasties. If it is beneficial to do this, how long should I run the cheap oil through the engine, 5 minutes or 500 miles!?!

Here you go!... 1. If the vehicle is of a type which cannot be tested on a roller brake tester, . set up the decelerometer in the vehicle in accordance with the equipment manufacturer's instructions . drive the vehicle on a level road at a steady speed of approximately 20mph (32kph) and note the brake efficiency recorded...

I don't know for sure but I would imagine that they have to perform the brake test in the same manner that they do on the roller braketesters. If thats the case then it would be braking in a straight line and from a relatively low speed

A tapley meter is a device that sits in the footwell of the car and measures brake effort. It is essentially an analogue gauge on a frame (although electronic ones are now available). As brake effort is applied, the g-force causes the gauge to swing in the frame and the needle on the gauge moves leaving a marker needle at the point of maximum g-force. They can then take the brake effort reading. Not very well explained I'm afraid, but using these units is common practice. I used to work in the garage equipment industry and we used to get thousands of these tapley meters calibrated every year. They are pretty much as accurate as your normal brake tester Gareth

I did mine about 6 months ago, an easy job as I remember - no more than 15 minutes a side. Can't recollect if you take the caliper off completely (for access to rear pad) or just undo one bolt and swing it away from the disk though... HTH Gareth

I'm just about to have both rear arches and sills done on mine, it was already done once, before I owned the car. What I have noticed is that this area seems to attract lots of crap that doesn't always get washed off when washing the car. I don't know if this is the reason it rusts around here but it seems as though this is the cars 'achilles heel'. My missuses Almera is starting to go in exactly the same place too, a nissan coincidence??? I have to admit that mines a UK car though and everyone knows they rust faster!!!

What, with all that MDF????!!!! :D

:shock:

.................

2000 Vectra Estate 2.0 16v GLS 1996 Nissan Almera 1.4 16v 'Groove' 1983 Yamaha RD350LC YPVS (partially disassembled) and the Zed

Just had a quick look on google about this. Seems as though its a fairly new problem, some people are getting rid of it with Microsofts Anti-spyware software, but many are having to use CWShredder and other tools to remove. Suggest you have a read of some of the threads on these forums as they may help...until one of our PC boffins reads this. Gareth

I'm not a guru but have had similar problems. Try starting your pc in safe mode, then running all your anti-virus and anti-spyware programs in there. This stops the culprit from sitting in the memory and replicating itself whenever you try and delete it. You could also try googling the address you keep being forwarded to, you will probably find several forums that list how to remove the problem... HTH

Paid £2500 for mine 6 months ago (UK 90 TT), but add at least another £1000 just to bring it up to an acceptable and road legal standard! :cry: (discs, pads, tyres, ecu, O2 sensor, temp sensor & harness, platinum plugs, rear arches & sills repaired & painted, fuel pump, oil & filter change). I have done as much of the work as possible myself, its booked into a body shop for the arches and sills to be done in a couple of weeks time. After all this and probably a full cam belt service and the underneath cleaned up and re-undersealed, I can then start on the even more expensive path to modifying! :dance: Just goes to show that you DEFINITELY get what you pay for !!!

If I had the choice, it would have to be the new Skyline Z-Tune :bow: