Lexx

Leighton Buzzard. Down near Luton. The owner, Adrian, is a good bloke. I know him for my days running the 350z-uk club. The stock a heap of Z32 parts these days too, but their prices are a bit steep. Adrian is related to Coz from CZP iirc. So anything CZP sells he can get, but you'll be paying VAT on the US prices so generally still cheaper to buy from CZP directly.

A whole lot of $$$ that will never be seen ?. New PCV hose and valves, fuel lines, and vac lines not shown as they're already stowed in the garage. I wish I'd found a cheaper mistress and mid life crisis!

https://www.garagewhifbitz.co.uk/review/product/list/id/5172/category/531/ That's the kit. There's a bunch of vids on their blog and socials.

Going to be pulling my plenum very soon so that I can sort the valve cover leak. Whilst it's off I'll be doing the usual deletes and stuff and figure I'll paint the thing whilst I'm at it. I've no interest in polishing it smooth or anything. I plan to clean it thoroughly and paint it leaving all the casting marks as they are. I'm also not interested in powder coating. Looking for inspiration for colour for it and the balance bar. I'm currently at silver for the plenum and black for the balance bar for a close to stock look. But I'm open to ideas.

There's a good guide on TTnet on how to remove/replace the steering pump. Also a good guide for the rocker cover gaskets. As Lee says there the deletes you can do whilst plenum is off. Also various old hoses you can get access too which you should replace whilst it's all apart. Here's the https://conceptzperformance.com/wiki/index.php?title=Valve_Cover Remember to buy all OEM stuff for gaskets (including a new plenum gasket as its paper and will be destroyed when pulling the plenum) and timing etc. And silicone for hoses.

PCV hoses, valves, and a few other silicone bits CZP didn't have in. Just waiting on the big CZP order arriving (it's not left the US yet).

So much for hibernation of the car this year. First box of many arrived yesterday. Tad frustrating to know how much I've spent this past week and that non of it is visible! ?

Well the hibernation didn't last long. I'm now a fair few $$$$ lighter courtesy of Z1 and CZP. Non of it will arrive in time for this leave, but next leave I'll be moving the car into my own garage to work on it in the warm and dry for once.

Custom built one is always going to be better value these days. Limited number of off the shelf options available anymore. And most of those need to come from the US.

H Torque and JM Imports both have excellent rep and do personal imports for a flat fee. DCY import too, and are generally at the cheaper end. Though the quality may sometimes reflect that. Having said that I know someone who got a cracking Impreza from them for a good price.

Have you spoken to any importers? You might be surprised at what you can have one OTR for from Japan. They have access to sources and auctions us mere mortals can't see.

https://www.facebook.com/113721402065759/posts/4370850256352831/ Call Jurgen. It won't be a ridiculous price he's asking for this. Then buy the £2k manual kit that's being sold on Facebook group, ship to Jurgen and have him fit it. You'll have a rust free, well maintained, TT Manual. Damn site less risk that buying any Zed that's been in the UK for a few years.

If your shocks are the original ones from circa 30 years ago then just slapping lowering springs on them will be a false economy as you'll have to dismantle it all again to replace the shocks when they inevitably fail. You can get OEM spec shocks from KYB and then put Tein lowering springs on them. Other options are to get soemthing like Tein S Flex coilovers from the start. They not to firm like some other brands of coilovers. I have MeisterR fitted at the moment but will be replacing them in the future as I find them too firm.

http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/technical/view/940942/Driver-or-Passenger.html This might help. (2nd to last reply).

Z32 isn't OBDii standard. You'll need consult or NDS to read codes (or use the ECU flashing method).

Ultralite wheels TE37 knock off. 18s, 8.5 front and 9 rear. Can't remember the offset as previous owner fitted them and tbh the offset isn't great and I've spacers fitted.

https://blasterzgarage.com/collections/weatherstrips-and-t-top-seals They sell door seals for SWB too. I'm. Hopeful one day they'll develop LWB door seals.

The first album I ever bought for myself with my own money was Bat out of Hell II. Deaths of celebs don't normally bother me one way or the other. But this is pretty gutting. My boat will have his songs over the PA for much of today.

Once again the 300zx.co.uk club will. Be sharing a stand with the 350z-uk guys and girls at Japfest Silverstone. The stand last year won best of show and I've no doubt that having us their contributed to that. For those who wish to attend please follow the below instructions closely. Inform me by PM once you have paid so I can inform the 350z-uk REO. Please note that deadline for being on the stand is MONDAY 14TH MARCH. To book club tickets for Japfest 2022 please follow these simple instructions... 1. Club members must go to https://www.fastcar.co.uk/japfest-silverstone/js-club-tickets/ 2. Click 'Book Club Tickets' and select 'Tickets' on this page. 3. You will then be prompted to enter your club access code (350z-Uk). 4. Proceed to select required tickets and place order 5. Once booked, you will receive a confirmation email as proof of payment We've slightly changed the way the booking works for 2022. You no longer need to select a vehicle pass separately to your entry ticket, it is now a 2 in 1 ticket. You will however still need to enter your vehicle details as required. PLEASE NOTE: Your ticket(s) and vehicle pass(es) will be sent via email no later than 3 days before the event date. They will need to be printed and brought with you to the show for scanning on entry. Vehicle passes must be selected upon booking to display a vehicle, without this, you or your members will be unable to display your car. The deadline to book club tickets is 12 noon Monday 14th March 2022, subject to space availability. Kelsey Media reserve the rights to close club booking before the advertised date.

H7

I've seen 2 "full" sets of second hand parts for a manual conversion on the FB sales pages this past week. Both up for over £2k. I can't remember if they both had the looms with them as well, but they looked complete otherwise. Paul Clements at Banzai Breakers has a full conversion kit almost ready to go. If you message him you might get in first. Again it'll be over £2k though without shipping. Remember that there are slight differences between an NA and TT manual box. But they can be made to fit. There's a heap of very in depth guides available across the Web.

Get the best maintained and condition one you can. Preferably one you can see the full history of or at least full details of recent work. Check for history of sill replacements in particular. Only things I'd class as desirable would be the digital aircon over the manual (early cars and late cars have digital. Some around 94/95 have manual). But that's my preference. A 98+ manual gearbox is a stronger unit than earlier ones but isn't essential and you can buy them new still. Some people prefer different interior finishes to others. Again that's personal choice.

The number plate is available to buy so I'm guessing whatever happened to the car it's now on a different plate. According to a spotted post on Pistonheads it was still around in 2011.

HIDs are easy for a DIY install. Takes about 20-30 mins. Longer if you want to hide the ballasts away under the nose panel (even longer if you tuck them under the headlights themselves). The Hids4u kits are proven to work. EBay kits are a lot cheaper and they do work. I've used both and happy with both. What can take the time is doing a suitable headlight flash mod so that the HIDs don't turn off when you flash the main beam. There's write ups of a few different methods in the how to sections. It's not difficult to do though. Remember that cleaning the inside of your lenses will make an absolutely huge difference too. It's fiddly but doable without removing the light cluster itself.

Like Lee I've got kids so needs to be done. We put it up a week ago just before I headed off to the boat so I got to enjoy seeing them excited at it going up.