Lexx

That knob makes a huge improvement. It's not a Nismo knob though. It's a 99 spec one. Was standard on the late cars. Nismo ones are metal. You'll be able to flog that wing quite easily. There was someone on one of the FaceAche groups last week looking for a high wing.

This is the new owner of Geordie French' car. Welcome to the club Will.

Japan: JPcarparts, Amiyama, Greenline US: Z1, CZP, SpecialityZ, Rock Auto. Also a few outfits in US making replica parts that are NLA - BlasterZGarage and ZSpec UK: Zcentre, Torqen (basically just stuff from CZP with VAT on), AllCarPartsFast. Breakers like Banzai Breakers also useful

Service history details, MOT status, chassis condition all make a huge difference in value. Rust is a massive factor with these cars and determining their value. As said above - lots of pics would be needed. If you want to send them direct to a team member rather than on the open forum then please say so and we can give you and address.

Ali at AB Auto-works in Halifax knows the Z32 quite well. Myself and Ian Greenfield have had rust repairs done by him. And he has his own Z32 as well.

Reg and pics to see if any of us recognise it.

I've the ZetaCRD and have them on the softest damper setting and even with that it's on the limit of comfort for me. I'm likely to change to something with softer springs in the future. Prior to putting the Nismo bushes in the car was all OEM but had subframe collars on the rear. The ride was awful on UK roads. Actual solid bushes would be harsh imo. Me and Lee did a little research and Hardrace do a set of rubber subframe bushes they claim fit the 300zx. I don't know anyone who has them though.

You using it as a track / Fast Road car? What about the rest of the suspension bushes? I put Nismo in all mine but left the OEM subframe bushes in as they weren't split or leaking. Lee (Bird) put ES everywhere in his and he now hates the ride.

What bushes are you putting in?

Spent a couple of hours polishing it (didn't have an aggressive enough pad to get all the swirls out but it came up good. Applied a glaze and then a wax. Then for the first time since I bought this car in August 2020 I drove it just for the pleasure of driving it. Wasn't a test drive following work on it. Or driving it back from the rust repairs. Just t tops off, windows down, drive down to the Marina and around the old town. This car infuriates me often, and is far from perfect and will likely cost me ££££ in the near future. But I'll never sell it.

If it's not working on the car in the cold and rain it's working on it in a heatwave. I can't wait to get our extension built with the garage extension! Anyway. All 4 corners got new discs and pads today. Forgot to take pics as I was doing it so only 2 pictures. Discovered that the handbrake was over adjusted and was binding on the rear disks a little which explains some of the bogging down I experiences last week when lifting off the throttle. Anyway. All sorted and back on the ground. Test drive tomorrow. Had the car almost 2 years. Made a lot of progress from where it was when I bought it. Last bits of the front suspension to sort next and then it'll be time for the chassis to meet a wire knot brush and paint!

So I didn't do a follow up after my driving around earlier in the week because I was so ****ed off with the car at that point. I'd developed a coolant leak - which I immediately worried meant I messed up the sealing of the water pump or hard pipes. And then on top of that there was a rotational squeak coming from somewhere around the diff. I put the car back on stands, had a 5 minute look. But honestly didn't have the time or patience. Huge thanks to Lee (Bird) for popping round this evening for an hour and just being second pair of eyes. Coolant leak is a failed jubilee clip on the upper hose that I'll replace tomorrow. And diff squeel was crud in between the ABS teeth, ABS sensor, and the shields. Cleaned, tabs bent out a little, and now all good. It's so easy to get fixated on worst case scenarios with these cars. That fresh pair of eyes looking at a problem is invaluable.

Washed and taxed. Time to drive it till the next thing on it breaks.....

Rcvd a 2nd hand AICV from one of the regular breakers. Unfortunately it arrived damaged Luckily it was only the AAC part I needed so I pulled that and have I stalled it in my current housing (Breaker is suppying another one next week). Anyway. Made a new gasket up and lost some more skin off my knuckles installing it. Car fired up and idled smoothly right away. Once up to temp I set the timing again for 15° BTDC. Totally taking this as a win for the day! Going to get her down off the blocks tomorrow and take her for a spin round the block and make sure everything runs as expected.

F****** cowboys man. Idle issue traced to the IACV as if I wiggled the connector on the AAC it would sometimes sort itself out and run steady for a second or two. Pulled the IACV - only had 3 bolts in it instead of 4 and no gasket. A previous owner (or garage) had tried to repair a snapped connector by mastiking it back on. Solonoid only intermittently working when tested with 12v. In the skip with this one and getting a good used one to try. New ones are $670 so trying to avoid that till I know this is the only fault. Thanks to Joel for helping me out with some fault finding this morning.

Smoking has stopped after 30 mins running today. So putting that down to spilled coolant burning off. Phew. Erratic idle is being a pain in the ***. I've adjusted the timing as best I can to 15° BTDC. But with the idle wandering a bit it obviously causes the timing to wander as well. Found one vac leak and sorted that. All the PCV and IACV hoses are brand new silicone items for Z1. Balance bar seals are new and torqued to spec. I'm looking at the IACV or the CAS now I suppose. I'm a silly sod and didn't clean the IACV when I had the plenum off. So I'll get Luke to send me a gasket and pull the IACV for cleaning. Borrowing Bird and his Consult soon so I can check a few other bits and bobs are in spec.

Flashbacks of dropping my rear subframe balancing it on a trolley jack ? What's the plan for the underside? Strip and paint? I'm probably going to use the same Jotrun paint I used on the subframe and arms after attacking it all with a knotted wheel on a grinder.

It's all back together. As discussed on another thread having some small issues. First being some white smoke from predominantly the passenger side of the block. It seems to be coming from around the manifold areas so I'm assuming/hoping it's just coolant that dripped all over there during the plenum pull burning off. Going to get my endoscope in there tomorrow and see what I can see. The cars runs up to temperature fine and hold steady. Other issue is the idle. On (cold) start up the idle runs up and down from 200-900 for 30 seconds or so and then settles down at 950. When blip the throttle the revs drop and stall after lifting off the pedal. Will start hunting for a vacuum leak tomorrow and hope it's that. Worst case the IACV is borked and I'll be £700 lighter by the end of the week.

Update to this: I think it's a case of spilt coolant burning off where it coated the manifolds when I pulled the plenum. Car runs up to temperature and holds fine and a mooch around would suggest that the smoke is coming from around that part of the bay (hard to see really - gonna dig my endoscope out tomorrow and check again). Now just got to rectify a really poor idle issue and find the vac like that is likely causing it.

Following this keenly as it's the project I'll be tackling once my house extension is completed next year.

All back together and running on all 6. However as it got up to temperature it started to steam. (can't upload a video here). It's not oil. I suppose it could be coolant but in honesty I don't know what burnt coolant smells like. I've had the valve covers powder coated - could it be a shit finish they've applied and it's reacting badly to heat? For info the heads have not been touched. Edit: for clarity I've done 120k service, valve cover gaskets powder coated and refitted with new seals etc. Plenu coolant line bypass.

Got back on land yesterday and had a slack few hours to work on the car. Valve covers fitted including new half moon seals. Z1 PCV silicone hoses fitted. Z1 IACV silicone hoses fitted. New Iridium plugs Plenum refitted with new OEM gasket. Coil packs in. All the wiring hooked back up (hate those God damn wire clips on the IACV!). Fuel hard-line refitted. All the fittings have been replaced with Zspec stainless throughout. Left to do: Fuel filter and new hoses to/from fuel hardlines. New OEM aux belts to fit. Fan to fit. Radiator to fit and fill. Then hopefully it'll be start up time. It'll be later this week though as I have other family and DIY commitments the next few days.

I'm with you. Whilst the darker shade won't look as good when in shade it will looks so much better when in the sun. But each to their own!

What spoiler are you looking for? Luke at Zcentre does various copies of the OEM ones. Genuine OEM ones are NLA. There's also Z1, and CZP on the states who sell various OEM copies and aftermarket options.

I think there's a Shorty on one of the FB pages being broken at the moment. You might get parts there.