Yowser

Watch this space ;) My car is being built with this purpose in mind. ....im not the only one either it seems that finally people are starting to introduce the 300zx to some serious competitions so the next couple of years should be interesting.

Happy Birthday Saz !! :duffer: :dance: 21 again ?

Thats very interesting. I've been planning to vent the archliners for a while now, but had mixed opinion on it. There are theorys out there about the turbulance affecting the air pressure could render the venturi affect useless, and although a few had done the mod nobody had ever proven either way..... Its good to see that somebody has tested it and proven it does'nt work though. Saves me the trouble. Thanks Ian. :)

Be extrememly lucky for a 94 onwards fuel rail and plenum to become available tbh. Another option is the 300degree Fuel rail kit.

Do you want it for looks of function ? If just function then I would vent the inner archliners instead.

They are the same providing it has ABS. ABS model has the brake pipes exiting the side, and the non-Abs has them existing out the top.

looks like im driving !

Mark, I believe John Dixon has some experience with complete ABS removal. Too heavy to Drift..noooo....ask Paul@SWZ to take you for a spin at the next meet ;) Removing it reduces weight and the ABS can cause problems with large brake setups. Plus many drivers prefer a non-ABS setup for the track.

Yep, fubbared ARB drop links are very typical. Well worth changing wether or not you change the ARB's too.

Antiroll bars have very little effect on ride stiffness. The Whiteline Kit is adjustable front and fixed rear.

Looks like they just cut off the bottom of the strosek bumper and extended it.

Yep, its on Passenger side. Are you replacing the stock sender with an aftermarket one for your gauge or are you hoping to take a feed of the stock sender ?

yeh lol the NA one sure does look pretty pathetic. The TT antiroll bar (27mm) is a popular upgrade for NA's in the U.S.

With the recent "Antiroll bar size" related threads recently, and since I had each of the various types lieing around I thought I would take a few pics and measurements for future reference. The U.S spec Bar shares the same size bars as the UK TT, and the pics clearly show why the U.S Sourced Polyurethane Anti roll bar bushes wont fit the Jap roll bar. Jap Import Non-Turbo - 17mm Hollow Jap Import Twin Turbo - 21mm Hollow UK Twin Turbo - 27mm Hollow Aftermarket Whiteline - 22mm Solid

Final names : Legrath - 2 admission , 1 track time BigDavezx - 2 admission madmarco - 2 admission, 2 track time Lisaf - 3 Admission, 3 track time Paul@SWZ - 2 Admission, 2 track time Ianl - 1 admission Red_zed - 1 admission fastorquer - 2 admission 2 track time Johnyboy - 2 admission Zogg - 1 admission stenorth - 2 admission 2 track time z32dave - 1 admission I have had confirmation of our Track time allocations : 6x Track sessions - 10:15am 6x Track sessiosn - 11:45am Wont be able to please everyone with the track times, but let me know if you have a preference. Obviously those with 2 sessions booked with have a slot in both sessions. I should receive the tickets in the next week, and will contact you at the time for Postal addresses. David

I could possibly fit both in on the 1st session if you and simon are in seperate cars ?

Sounds like you need to overhaul your suspension. New shocks, springs and bushings (inc Hicas arms if its a TT). Its pretty typical for these cars to be running around on old worn suspension and replacing makes a massive difference,

Nice one Darryl :cool:

The car wont rev past 3.5k rpm and your worried about the fuel ecomomy !?!? First things first - Do an ECU test to check error codes. Also - Vacumn/Boost leaks, depending on where they are will not only affect performance but also Fuel economy. What happens exactly with the car not revving past 3500 ? Does it rev fine until about 2500, then rough above that..until it feels like your getting fuel cut ? You really dont want to be driving it until you fix these issues. Temp gauge failure = Bad connection on the sender (the little black connector on the top water pipe)

This might help with the aid of a multimeter : WHITE - 12v LIVE BLACK/YELLOW - STARTER BLACK/RED - IGNITION ON BLUE - ACCESSORY BLACK/WHITE - NOT SURE?

Good news vini :) Although I had'nt realised you had sold it...knew you had the Skyline then the Bmw, but thought you still had the Zed too....anyway, glad you've got it now :D

The ones Paul posted are from the Nissan owners manual. Darrel may have had different settings done to his choice, or by recomendation from the place that did the Alignment. Also the figures Darrell posted are using a different measurement. You dont really need to know the settings yourself, thats the job of the wheel aligner. If you go anywhere half decent then its all computerised. Camber does'nt nessarily cause excessive wear, not unless it is way out, stock camber is around -1 but a a couple of degrees negative can be a preferred setup without any premature wear.

Any motor factors will sell them.

The place your getting the alignment done should have all the data on there computers. The above setting are the stock settings it should be set to no matter what wheels/suspension you have IF you want to keep the stock alignment settings. Others may prefer to alter the Camber, castor, toe a little for there own preferences, depends on how you drive it really.

Check your CAS connection first....Failing that could be the Fuel pump controller or the relay