Yowser

Im on an Advent laptop now from PC world. Cheap and relatively ok spec for a laptop. Battery is useless though. Had it about 8 months and battery used to only last an hour when new but now it lasts less than 2 mins with power unplugged. Everything else been fine.

Nice one, Let us know how the Exedy goes yeh, the RPS Max clutch is pretty heavy, I thought my Clutch Booster assistance was'nt working at first LOL

Mods? Its there as standard. Spraying it bodycolour so its gone would be the mod. Used to hate the Dark strip, and had them sprayed on previous Zed's. Dont mind them now, but Im not a stock bumper fan, dates the car quite badly imo, much prefer 99spec front, really modernises the car.

It intercepts the signal between ECU and MAF and is adjustable so you can trick the ECU into thinking there is more or less Air, so it injects More or less fuel for tuning purposes. Its a bit of a Hack tbh, and can cause all sorts of running problems if not setup correctly.. With it switched off it will be disabled, or you can completely remove it.

Welcome :) Color code is on the VIN plate. Its 3 characters. Sounds like yours is sapphire blue which would be TK3, but check VIN plate to confirm. For the rubbers, and all Nissan Parts speak to either MJP for new or SWZ for used, both in the forums Traders section.

I dont live near enough unfortunatly, What do you want checked? The progress ?

Congrats Dave! Look forward to seeing it.

You could get it for £3k with some bargaining.

Congrats stu :dance: Like all the sensors it will show a error code if the ECU can not get a reading from it.

Congrats, glad you got it sorted. For future reference - New OEM parts - MJP Autos (Independent Nissan OEM parts supplier - Z specialist) Used Parts - SWZ Parts (UK's largest 300zx Breaker) Both 300zx.co.uk forum traders, details in the Traders section.

Thought that may have been why you were asking. :) There's been similar posts before from concerned owners. Yep, as mentioned perfectly normal for SWB and LWB.

Yep, infact 500+ at the rear wheels which is nearly 600 at the crank on stock internals from a few guys in the U.S. Not something I would personally want to risk, but been done a few times. Its all about the Mapping. Stock turbo's max out at around 18psi. Injectors at 15psi. Intercoolers at around 15psi.

Dave keep an eye out for a set of Used genuine Rays/Volk racing alloys. If needs be you could always get them refurbed and save yourself a fair amount compared to new. Its worse than that, UK rears are 8.5" - wider than these cheapie aftermarket copies. Thats the UK Importer. They are cheapie China/Taiwan/Korean manufactured wheels that unlike the wheels they copy are not manufacutured by forging, they are made using either gravity casting or low pressure casting techniques, which makes them weaker and heavier. They look similar, but even the paint finish on them can not compare.

A boost controller also allows the boost to come on quicker and stronger, compared to jets. You will notice a performance difference going from 12psi with Boost jets to 14psi with a Boost controller. Then there is the ability to turn it down when wet or when somebody else drives the car. Plus when you consider that most Boost controllers include a built in Boost gauge then you dont need to spend £100 out on a Boost gauge and Pod.

and so he tried it again !:eek: :rofl: Very good :cool:

The one underneath is the PAS/Hicas ECU. The one next to it is Autobox ECU.

Yes, a few times. The first part of the loom is longer which you just coil up under the battery tray, and you many have to cut a little of the tape/plastic for some of the connectors to reach over by the AIV stuff, but thats it.

If resistor does not work then its likely a fault with the loom between connector and ECU.

R.I.P

:( Dissapointing to hear. Its very likely all your old stuff was sold off by Ryan and his brother. I was up there just before Ryan sold the business, and was offered a Billet torque convertor (which I did'nt buy) along with a whole stack of other stock and aftermarket parts that he was selling for cash before Chris took over.

Not 1ohm, its 1 Megohm (1,000,000 ohm) , also displayed as 1MOhm. 1/2 watt is what the ones I use have written on them.

Yeh, I know what you mean. I would personally go with the Profec B Spec II, in black. Its small and discreet, especially where you intend to mount it. I wish finding somewhere discreet was so easy for my E-01.

Very sad to hear. Famous for his acting and his Z racing :( RIP

Will you be throwing out your Flashy double DIN headunit next and fitting something like this : ;)

Yep. Contains lights for "Power", "hold" and "overdrive."