Everything posted by Yowser
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One day car insurance, £1 a day!!!!!!!!
Nice find :cool: Followed the link to the RAC site and looks like you can insure group 18-20 vehicles too, but costs an extra tenner EDIT : Checked Terms and Conditons - No imports, and no Modifications :(
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Turbo replacement time!!
What are your aims/goals Allan, in regards to performance wise over stock ? Taking into account cost of having to upgrade other parts too.
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Help identifying parts
1st is Fuel Pump ECU 2nd is ABS ECU Engine cooling Radiator Aircon Radiator Engine oil cooler
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replacement Greddy profec e-01 centre unit ?
edit : its ok, sorted now.
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Ignition amplifier unit
Its a reliablity upgrade. The S1 PTU's are flawed, In the U.S the Nissan dealers did a recall of the S1 PTU's and replaced them with S2, but unfortuantly UK and Japan did'nt. The price difference is becuase of comparing a New PTU with a 2nd hand one.
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Funnier side of F1
:rofl:
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MarkZX
Great time. You should have it added to here :http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=113508 Mid 12's with it properly mapped, or do you think there is low 12 potential ? :cool:
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Leather retrim from Malaysia
Looks great...At that price you've got a potential export business there !
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Bottom crank pulley
Pulley remover tools not very expensive. I think I paid about £12 for mine. There a PITA to use, but they do the job. You could try tapping it off, but quite often the Crank Pulley is on very tight.
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Erg and pcv and why
You can remove the Carbon Cannistor, I removed mine the other week. Follow the guide carefully to be sure you connect up the correct vacumn pipes and leave the correct ones venting. The PRVR Valve’s job is to prevent vapour lock in the fuel system during High fuel temperature situations and during warm starts. It recieves signals from the ECU to release excess vacumn in the fuel system which inturn increases fuel pressure. PRVR can also be removed, as its not needed in our climate. There is a guide on the same site as the Carbon canistor removal.
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Car Violently Shakes Under Braking
Brake judder is usually either Warped Discs or Worn tension rod bushes. Check to see if the front tension rod bushes are leaking. (they are Gel filled)
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Very nice UK TT Manual Z32 on ebay.
Nice one ! Looks like a great buy :cool:
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Retrimming
Yep. I've retrimmed 4 zed's myself now in either Vinyl or Leather and after the 4th one I finally realised that it does'nt matter how hard you try, you wont get it as good as a proper trimmer would. So I paid somebody to do the leather in my slicktop and very glad I did. Yeh, it looks better than the original tweed, but the imperfections begin to annoy you. I'd probably have a go with Alcantara though, looks a lot easier to get a good finish compared to Leather.
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Erg and pcv and why
No. The EGR system recirculates exhaust gases into the intake to lower combustion temperatures. This decreases noxious emissions by prohibiting the formation of some harmful gases. The PCV system recycles escaped gases from the crankcase back into the inlet manifold, reducing air pollution and preventing moisture build-up inside the engine which prolongs oil life. There is also the AIV system which introduces clean air into the exhaust at idle to aid the Catalystic convertors for reducing emissions.
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appeal inadmissipble
fair enough, everyone entitled to an opinion...you've followed his F1 career, watched the races, seen it all and made you own mind up. oh, wait, nevermind :rolleyes: :slap: :rofl: :rofl:
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Come across this?
If its behind the nearside Intercooler then its the Carbon Canistor.
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Finally go it!
Just noticed your not far from me, in Bristol :) Check out the Events sections for next meet
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while the engines out
You can put them through the Plenum, one each side, and loop back to the crane. Chains or Rope, just make sure its strong enough - Weight of engine is around 250kg.
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Finally go it!
Welcome (Back). Got some pics of the zed ?
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Prop
ok, Manual easier than Auto. Auto is a PITA as you got to undo the Torque convertor bolts first.
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Prop
Dropping the subframe allows easier access to the top gearbox bellhousing bolts from underneath. You dont need to drop it completely though. There are 4 bolts, 2 either side. Just undo them enough so that the subframe drops but leave the nuts on the bolt, so the subframe is still supported.
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Prop
Its fitted now, but not sprayed yet. Car was bought as a bare rolling shell, which Im rebuilding. Nearly there.
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Prop
Yeh, thats correct. No need to remove gearbox, so prop can stay on. You just need to unbolt the 10 or so Bolts around the bellhousing Auto or Manual ?
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Prop
just thought, your removing engine...do you need gearbox out for a reason too ? If not, there is no need to remove gearbox, and no reason to remove prop.
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Prop
Yep, just pull and it slides out the back.