Yowser

Different stud pattern , PCD is 5x120 when 300zx is 5x114.3 / 114

UK rears fill the arches out much better than Jap :

Just to add, as well as a wider track and contact patch benefiting handling they also look a hell of a lot better. The stock jap rear fit too far inside the arch.

Sorry to hear that :p you will find many traders on the Supra forum - http://www.mkivsupra.net

Have a spare 9am Track session slot available if anyone is interested. Club discounted price of 25pound. Please let me know ASAP SOLD

Tickets going in the post today (monday) for those not collecting from me.

The wire goes from the amp to your headunit ? Whats it wired to on the headunit ? You can wire it to any 12v feed that is on with the ignition (stereo remote output would be better becuase then its only on when stereo is on, but makes no real difference) If it is wired to Amp remote output from Headunit then headunit may even have a option in the menu to turn off the remote feed, so you can turn the amp on and off with your headunit. Depends on your specific headunit settings.

Welcome I would strongly suggest test driving several before purchasing. Even if your heart is set on this particular example its a really good idea to drive others to compare it with. There are a LOT of bad examples out there unfortunatly, more bad that good I would say, and I have driven many Z's that would have put me off them for life if I did'nt know what a good example drives like.

if you are using a Amp wiring kit, the remote wire is usually joined in the middle of the phono/rca leads to make routing the wires easier

its a single wire feed, there will be a place for it on the amp. You should have inputting the amp: 1. a 12v permanant feed from battery. (needs to be thick enough gauge for the amp power rating) 2. an Earth to a secure place on the chassis (or the battery) 3. a 12v remote feed 4. Phono/RCA leads from Headunit and then Speaker wires for output. The remote feed is a 12v feed from an Ignition source, usually from one of the stereo outputs. It basically tells the amp to power on/off when stereo is turned on.

Thats to do with sound interference though, wont prevent the amp from powering up. Check you are getting a proper earth and 12v with a Multimeter though.

and you have power to the remote wire as well ?

I would be more concerned about the insurers refusing to pay because of evidence of poor maintenance

We dont have the full electronic suspension on the U.K models or JDM Imports. That was a U.S option only, you would be better off asking on http://www.300zxclub.com or http://www.twinturbo.net

were talking about performance against a TT. You said they easily wipe the floor with one. That is incorrect, I have never raced one but according to their road test figures they are slower in acceleration, mid range and top speed than a 300zx TT. I understand its popular to modify them though.

except its not easy 300zx annihilation as they are slower. (stock)

Same here, one of mine was way off

My choice would be the GD's , seen some good feedback on the 3" design.

Yep, repost, but it deserves it. Hideous Monstrosity

You also have Andy Duff at Zxtreme - Zxtreme Unit 14 Bolton Road Workshops Bolton Road Wath-upon-dearne Rotherham South Yorkshire S63 7JY Tel :07801735117 Email : andy@zxtreme.co.uk

The kerb lights is a 93 onwards JDM option only.

Combine that with Lightweight Crank pulley and the difference is even more apparent. Throw them in with a one piece propshaft and Higher ratio rear diff and the acceleration really comes alive. :cool:

Remove spark plug and coilpack, then connect them all back up and rest it on the top of the engine (so its all plugged in as usual, but just not in the cylinder), and turn engine over with the key while somebody looks for a spark at the tip of the plug. Its best to pull the fuel pump fuse out (green fuse closest to engine in small fuse box next to Brake resevoir), so that engine does not start. Do not hold the coilpack or spark plug while doing this. If you swap the CAS for another make sure you mark its exact position with some sort of market pen first, its important it goes back in the exact same position otherwise timing will be out and that you tighten the bolts up before starting.

Upper Plenum off, Lower plenum off, Heads off - very big Job! Most garages would remove engine first. This was after a snapped belt ? What have you done so far ? What leads you to believe there is valve damage ? First you want to turn the engine over manually with the crank. Check for resistance(there will be normal resitance at tdc). if thats ok, then do compression test. If thats ok then start her up. If not ok then it indicates valve and other possible damage and its time to rebuild engine.