Yowser

Right ok...Lymon is correct . Basically if using a TT Fuel pump Controller than it needs extra wiring from the TT ECU to the Controller. Its to do with different pump speed settings. However the NA Controller works perfectly with TT fuel pump, you just need to retain NA ECU and have it remapped a a TT. To get around this : Use TT Fuel pump Use NA Fuel pump Controller Use NA ECU and have it fitted with TT chip (do not use TT ecu) This works perfectly.

see my edit above about the fuel system, looking into it now... Electric fan will still work as per normal if water temp gets too high, it just wont have seperate speeds for different temps. its also affected by wether aircon is on or not. But with a viscous equipped system in our climate the aux fan should'nt be coming on anyway, but even if it does it will still do its job fine.

No need to change the dash loom No real need to change/alter the aux fan or wiring to it. TT version has different speed settings, but its not important. If its coming on then you already have overheating issues. You will need the TT fuel pump ECU as well, that lives behind the N/S panel next to the rear seats. edit : I just read the post from Lymon about wiring differences for the Fuel pump controller......I do not recall any differences on the last NA>TT conversion I did...but I check and see if I can find out anything....

No they are not needed for ordering pistons or rods. They are only needed if your buying Nissan OEM bearings, but you can not rely on the grade numbers because the engine may no longer meet tolerances or the crank may have been ground in the past. Instead have an engineering shop measure and order them for you. Its best for them polish/grind the crank , measure and do the ordering than to just buy a set of graded shells. Alternatively If you have the measurement tools yourself then check everything is within tolerance and order a set of ACL race bearings, which come in standard and oversize. The nissan grading system is not necessary, the grade ranges are smaller than recommended tolerances anyway.

Chroming the 99spec replica inserts you have fitted to them

LOL Thats pretty similar to how my car looked a year ago, although I did'nt remove my heater boxes. I purchased mine as a rolling shell and stripped it right back to a bare shell and rebuilt. What are your plans ? Complete bare shell rebuild...and I take it from your username your doing an engine swap?

have you used the "report post" button?

I've ditched them all.

He's on holiday I believe, back in a couple of days.

good point, I was being a bit thick there lol

ODYSSEY PC680 Its a lot smaller than a regular battery, I actually have it mounted behind one of the boot panels (although this particular SWB panel has more room behind it than LWB panels) I think it was off ebay, although there are loads of shops that sell them online. Its not much good if you have a big ICE build (amps and subs), but its excellent otherwise. It still starts fine after leaving the car for more than a week.....I think the longest I have left it must be 2 weeks and started with instant turn of the key)

about 100. hang on, cant remember which one it is..will go check...

...I've fitted a Lightweight Drycell battery. 6kg vs 16kg(stock) Stock seats were 28kg (electric drivers) , 18kg (manual passengers). Defiantly a massive savign to be had there...my new seats were 7kg each(excluding the new custom mounts)

86kg , Bladder half full and I left my clothes on :rofl:

lol ..ok ..umm...hang on I'll go weigh myself now..... :rofl:

my seat belts are removed ;) I have'nt weighed them though as it never had any when I got the shell. Im waiting for a friend to weld in the plates for me (I cant weld) so I can install the harnesses.

I've done all of the above too (except for the top mounts atm) here is the rest : Centre Lightweight seats fitted with custom mounts – 23kg Lightweight Prop shaft – 7kg Rear NA Rear subframe & Diff – 35kg Spare wheel removed – 15kg Spoiler removed – 7 kg Lightweight Battery fitted in boot + 6kg Nissan Tools removed – 2 kg Tailgate weight removed – 2kg Rear Wiper & Motor removed – 2kg Cargo blind removed – 2kg Rear speakers – 2kg

All fairly standard stuff that you have probably mostly done : Front Battery moved to boot – 16kg Aircon removed (Pump, Bracket, Radiator, Condenser, pipes, Fan) – 15kg SS Turbo elbows and down pipes – 11kg Lightweight flywheel – 7kg Lightweight Crank pulley – 4 kg AIV removed – 3kg Carbon Canister removed – 3kg Hicas solenoid Removed – 3kg Fog lights removed – 3kg NA Pas Pump and Bracket – 2kg EGR removed – 2kg Cruise control removed -1kg Everything weighed when removed/replaced with digital scales

Thats a 4 point harness (the most common style) , most aftermarket seats have 2 seperate slots above the shoulders so this is the style needed. eg. You can still fix them to a single mounting point together.

Why not got for a rear 4 point cage. You get the harness bar built in but with the benefit or improving chassis rigidy which improves handling. Plus a rear 4 point cage is unobtrusive to the seating area in the front.

The autobox is the 300zx achillies heel. Enough of them die on a regular basis with stock power.

Not sure about that tbh...... its not designed to take impact forces in the direction a harness would put on it. This is what you want where J1mmmy has bolted it to the rear strut area : http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Harness-eye-backing-plate-FIA-approved-x-3_W0QQitemZ370184905140QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item370184905140&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1689|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318 make sure you get a set that are built to FIA approval

btw, when reducing weight you need to consider weight distribution. The car in stock form is front biased 55:45. You dont want to make that worse and ideally concentrate on improving it. Which means removing more weight from the front than the back. So far I have lost 70kg from the front, 30kg from the centre and 60kg from the rear for 160kg total loss which should give me a kerb weight of around 1350kg.

J1mmys's harness fitment is pretty good, the best I've seen without a Cage. Do NOT whatever you do fit them to the rear seat belt buckle holes.....it is extremely dangerous and will crush your spine in an accident. They need to be fixed as close to shoulder height as possible.

The panels themselves weigh very little, neither does the rear seat base. By far the heaviest interior items are the two front seats, followed by the Carpet and the sound deadening fixed to the floorpan. By all means replace the heavy front seats, a very good weight saving there and you can get extra support and they stil look look. But for the sake of 20kg I would rather keep the sound deadening, carpets and panels. Without them it becomes ugly and noisy and completely changes the driving experience, there are other prefered places for weight loss.