Yowser

no, its more complicated than that. here, this explains how to measure and calculate it : http://www.gomog.com/allmorgan/wheeloffset.html (scroll down to the PCD section)

As said in previous post its 3/4 size...its one of the options on the size dropdown...well used to be anyway, will take a look now... edit : Yep, still there .... your just blind :p

Repost. The Arch vents, although pointless are very well done. Bumper mods look gash.

Welcome Check out the Wales and ASG (Avon, somerset, Gloucester) Meets sections

Cant decide if it looks great...or hideous. Its probably a small citroen V6 with open headers lol

http://www.turbodynamics.co.uk/ Hard to give a price as is dependent on the condition of existing turbos, and I used them a as a trade customer.

I can highly recommend Turbo Dynamics. I have had over a dozen pairs of Z turbos reconditioned with them and always had great service.

The rear subframe is a floating system on gell filled rubbers. However as these wear they start to allow excessive movement in the subframe. The spacers fit between the the stock rubbers and the mounting plates and stop the subframe play but still utilise the cushioning of the stock rubbers to eliminate vibration and noise.

Yep, earth. If you bolt it into the original metal supports and screw that into the correct place in dash should then be earthed to the chassis and will fire into life. (or just run a earth to the stereo housing to test it) ..ofcourse there is also the fuse in drivers footwell too.

All good so far. The next step would be replacing the bushes that are left after fitting the adjustable arms, with polyurethane bushes. Subframe spacers help reduce subframe movement in the rear which reduces wheel hop on acceleration. Polyurethane steering Rack bushes help give more response and feel to the steering. A Rear strut brace makes a more noticable difference than the front strut brace. Tyre and Suspension geometry choice makes one of the biggest differences. The stock geometry can be improved with some more negative camber and a little extra castor and parallel toe. A decent race alignment garage will be able to improve on the stock alignment setup.

:bow: :bow:

We all have rear fogs, its just that we have them hidden by making use of a Reverse or Brake light as the fog light.

...

Auto ECU with Manual gearbox = OK (Manual ECU in a Auto converted to manual = OK) Manual ECU with Auto gearbox= Not OK

The missus has'nt bothered watching this year and she usually does. Normally hear about it from all over the place, but if I had'nt flicked past it a few times on ch4 I'd of never known it was on.

was dipstick checked with engine running ?

How have you tested that its not sparking when placed back in the block ?

You can get adaptors for the Nissan loom (halfords..etc) to convert into standard ISO plugs.

Ffs :(

Forget them, if your quick you can get in on this : http://www.driftworks.com/forum/driftworks-shop/87108-hsd-coilovers-group-buy.html They have over 50 names down so its the lower price. Quite a few Z owners have signed up for it.

Genuine ebay advert http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/20-pence-coin-20p-UNDATED-MINT-ERROR-collectable-rare_W0QQitemZ320392356839QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Coins_BritishDecimal_RL?hash=item4a98df63e7&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=65%3A12|66%3A2|39%3A1|72%3A1684|240%3A1307|301%3A1|293%3A1|294%3A50

wow, must be my lucky day. I have just won a Cricket ball and a Rugby ball LOL Cheerz Baz :D

Autobox is 7.7 litres for JDM and 8.7 litres for UK model. Fluid level must be checked with engine running. Move gear selector through all gears, and then test it in park with engine idling. You should check fluid when cold and warm, using the appropriate dipstick markers.

before & after

Thats not becuase its Comma....its becuase its clean. I guess you will need to have somebody else check it for you.