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7 pin plug to the doors but non heated 5 wire mirrors are fitted each side, sorry. Using some 2 core wire of your own it is possible to put the extra two wires in yourself, it feeds through quite well in fact, did it myself many years ago [emoji3]. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I am wanting the factory keyless remote fob for a 94, 95 or 96 I believe it is with part number 28268-F9902. It seems I can buy it new but thought i'd try here first, you may have one lying around in a drawer and you'll never use !! Looks like this, good condition required, another option I could have is to borrow one to test and see what happens when I zap my donor with it :biggrin:.

Further inspection of 'my' donor, I looked for the keyless ecu in the footwell and there it was :). Excited by this find, I then take off the door card to find more goodies, tested the closure and the windows popped up and the mirrors closed in :cool3:. I then hurriedly take out some boot panels and sure enough the factory fit boot release acruator is there, works as well, one long press on one of the Toad fob's buttons and it unlocks, this will work better on mine because I have fancy strong gas struts and once unlocked the boot flies up !! This heap of rust just keeps on giving !!

I got myself some blue door mirror glass, you can read about my exploits in the thread below but these are very nice and will compliment my later series glass perfectly. https://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?189862-Blue-Door-Mirror-Glass-From-A-Nissan-Maxima&p=1983516#post1983516

First up, did you know the glass or mirror comes out of the back plate with ease, carefully just push out. So we end up with the door mirror apart and here we have my newly acquired blue tinted ones amongst my spares, sure you can spot which are which !! It became clear a little later in the day but from the pic below notice the left carcass is much thinner, so thin in fact it was weak, there was a tiny bit missing and pretty much crumbling away which led me to doing this 'job'. So with the glass out you can polish right up to the edges, I used G3 paste. Here they are nice and clean :thumbup:. Of course you need a left and a right, wash them in the sink, I did find that using a brillo around the front edges took all the years of grime off the plastic very easily. Make sure though they have the full compliment of lugs, these are the heated type with the slot, non heated ones do not have a slot, they have a square cut out. I put the r/h glass into the frame without an issue, the l/h one gave me problems and wouldn't go in, it was 3mm too long, this I cannot understand and takes me back to earlier in this thread where I said the walls of the carcass were thin, which did enable the mirror to slip in easy I grant you, it's either they came like this straight from the Maxima or the seller of these to me has 'doctored' them somehow. I pondered for a while what to do but in the end I got out my drill, clamped it to the bench and with a drill attachment I ground them down with 150 course grade paper which I had initially bought years ago for door window polishing, back and forth I was offering back into the frame, took me about 30 mins. Finally, it went in and so another colour comparison pic So not a straight forward job for me but I got there, something I didn't expect doing but I am incredibly pleased with these :yes:.

Looking at the below car a little more thoroughly, it's an auto I know but it is a turbo, 1995 was a good year imo, it's got the optional extra digital heater control and it's also got factory cruise control, you can see the pod switch and the cc stalk on the left of the column, cruise was also an optional extra for the year and incredibly rarely seen on a later car. I also notice it's fit with a cluster boost gauge, again this is rare and I'm not sure why it has one for the year, can only say someone from new has paid again. If the mileage is what it is, then this is not a bad example and one to consider for a prospective buyer, I will point out I've not done any further online checks. There are more pictures on their website but non sadly of the engine bay and lacking a few of the interior. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1995-Nissan-300-300ZX-TWIN-TURBO-AUTO-2dr/142934350565?hash=item21478d1ae5:g:RHEAAOSwizRbl1GM:rk:22:pf:0

For reference, this exact green stickered ecu (27512-41P11 with AF120-68 and 595271) is factory fit on my Series 4, April 1995 donor, it will soon be migrated into my late '94, meaning i'll then have the later series digital optional extra :drool:. Goes with this control ;).

Just checked this, both front clips are broken off, thought it was sticking up too much, sorry. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The white arrows have gone but apart from that it’s fine, I don’t need it fyi. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ll be selling them as tango orange and they’re in tremendous nick, getting thin on the ground. I’ll probably though convert and then sell the reverse panel which will add some extra Wonga [emoji3]. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah it’s velour ! I’ve no need for it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

They are indeed, I've asked for this haven't I !!

Yes I specifically did the rear area with you in mind :innocent:.

Did you get some waterproof tea bags whilst you were there :taz:.

Yes, I made the part number up :oops:.

Seeing as this vehicle will be broken in due course and I'll probably ask for a thread title change, for reference I have taken a couple more videos.... [video=youtube_share;hv8I3CoQpl0] [video=youtube_share;RSIki_XievU]

Following on from post 378 where I had collected the door glass from Slick Pete, I decided to fit today, now all matching later series glass :cool3:.

Erm…..wasps are pollinators you know so that good-for-nothing is not true, RIP waspy :thumbdown:.

My April 95 donor was bought with the thought to migrate over all its SRS crash sensors, I had got thinking that mine had them removed by a previous owner. Having acquired the above mentioned wheel I thought try on my donor, I was told it was all working as it should and so it was. I then moved onto my own and not knowing but hoping that it would work I put everything back together and here's a short vid, blurry but for those that don't know the airbag light is centre top :cool::):thumbup1: back of the net !!! [video=youtube_share;vgBcrDvMZa8]

I had my steering wheel refurbished by Hide 'n' Seat in 2017, beautiful it is with alcantara and perforated leather but it's the wrong one :crying:. It's the one on the right in this picture below, I will point out that the 'correct' one recently bought, the left one, as many more holes in the chassis and a wider opening. So of course not wanting to pay again for a steering wheel refurbishment and much swarf later, drilling holes, tapping, etc, I end up with this..... And with everything back together, I now have a spare, red badge migrated over - this is a must have !!! Fun if you want to call it, for that extra touch I slopped in some red on the horn symbols :detective:.

After a rename of my thread, time for an update, much progress as been made.... This below is a slip ring that I have had for many years and was the one I thought I needed for my late 94, the plug however is wrong, hence the connectors, bottom right in the picture you'll notice, not sure which year, model, country these are for but it's not mine. It does have two ribbon connectors, one attaches to the airbag and the other is for the horn two buttons. And this is the steering wheel that said slip ring fits with locator lugs at 12 and 6 o'clock and has this access panel on the lower rear. Right then, access panel, when I got the car there was an aftermarket steering wheel fitted, so in 2009 I found this piece under the seat and it was stored for many years and after some time I realized it must be from the original wheel, the one I need, but variations have led to my head scratching. I saw a 1995 car for sale 50 miles from me with an aftermarket steering wheel fitted, I asked 'have you the original wheel and ring'? Yes he replied so I got myself on there and bought both. He told me he had sold the car in the meantime, buyer didn't want or never mentioned the oem wheel, the airbag was blazing away I might mention, and so it was there for me, the seller did also say that he fit the original equipment at MOT time, further proof that these worked a treat.....result I thought. So documenting further and finally after 9 years these are the correct 100% parts for my car, I now know that the brown plug goes to the plug under the steering column, the slip ring white plug goes to the centre plug on the steering wheel module, then you have a plug to the horn and the yellow connector to the airbag itself.

It’s a powerful battery I’ll grant you, a bit overkill in my opinion but if that’s what you want then go for it [emoji1303]. My E38 has always cranked with gusto, great batteries imo are varta but like oil it’s personal preference. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well it will but it's a stop/start battery. I went for the E38 because it was 'only' 175mm in height, so gets under the scuttle better imo but it made up for this lack of height (220mm is the norm 068) with more length, as opposed to a 261mm long battery (068). The factory battery clamp, fyi, will not fit with a 175mm tall battery, the bolts or rods are not threaded down enough iirc, you could thread yourself further down but I sorted out some M6 threaded rod to fit on mine.

Why don't you power up the old Lee, see if you can get that going first.

Just checked and I have the E38, it's too long for the tray though, you'll need to just cut a bit off the plastic and you'll be fine :biggrin:. If you don't want to do that, get a battery the correct size !!