JaiKai

This would be scary for most people but I've got a good engineering mindset so I found it very easy. I've new gaskets, stem seals, bearings and piston rings on order. Looking forward to rebuilding her but it's a bugger to clean. My thoughts are to buy loads of white vinegar and steap the whole lot for a few days.

Moving onto the pistons i'm glad that I decided to crack on and strip it completely as I had a cracked piston ring on one. And a few other cracked as I took them off, very fragile these are. Just a cleanup job now which i'm not looking forward too. Pistons are very good condition with just a few areas of carbon that can be cleaned up. And looking into the block the cylinders are very clean indeed.

Apart from the oil everything was nice and clean with no contaminants. Crank out and placed carefully on the support bracket.

Engine breakdown today :) Starting first on getting the valves out and stem seals. Then after that I started on the block again One by one I slowly took the pistons out. Then the bottom end support bracket off followed by the oil pump and the seal from the other side.

cool idea. :gunsmilie:

The whole paint job is 3K and i'm getting a fair discount.

Give MJP a call he is a Trader on here.

And these have been dispatched from concept. The version I ordered are black with red text saying Fairlady Z

Lots of good things happening today. First my paint has arrived from house of kolor in the USA. Then I get notification that the remaining back order for my conceptz order has been dispatched. You would never guess what colour it is?

Its usually a type of tin tape, but as its metal it can withstand the 800+ degrees that the oven puts out. Any sort of paper or plastic will be incinerated. :(

gaffer tape would just melt too.

Not really as any plastic will more than likely melt from the process of being baked. I have seen them been done, but advised to remove the baffles first.

Next question is going by the grades do I stick with OEM or go with something better ? Lastly anyone know best place to by piston rings as concept $212 for oem is expensive. or do I do aftermarket for both parts ?

ok, I'm going the whole hog on this engine and I've decided while the block out stripped that i'll change all the bearings. I'll dismantle everything myself but the plan is to send the three main blocks to be properly cleaned by a local company. True that I've never rebuilt a zed engine before but i'm not daunted by it and I've assisted on a v8 build on my brothers Defender 110. My only question is my understanding of how to calculate the grades of bearings required. So first on the end of the main crank is stamped '0 1 1 2' which is the first numbers needed; and on the block we have '2 2 2 1'. This would mean I need a 1x grade 2 and 3x grade 3's. Is this correct ? Then for the rods each rod is also stamped and a correlating stamp is at the other side stamped on the crank.

Most of the car is already prepped and its just one door to be done.

Took about an hour to carefully fit the loom again as I didn't want to scratch any of the paint. So I took my time on this :

I was informed last week that my engine bay was done so it was time to fit the main loom. Done in a Satin black I now have a very shiny engine bay. :)

Lastly started to strip the cams down and take the lifters out.

Also cleaned out all the gunk in the centre of the block.

Pistons looking a lot cleaner but I still going to do some more work on them

Few more hours working on the engine - mostly cleaning and scraping the crap off.

Take it you noticed after the engine was reinstalled back in your zed ! Bummer.

yes, I've read up on some stories about the dip stick getting stuck.

Whats the best way to clean these up ? I'm trying to avoid taking the pistons out but do you thing I should if I have gone this far ?