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vodkashots

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Everything posted by vodkashots

  1. http://pistonheads.co.uk/sales/1513803.htm lol
  2. Lift it slowly, and check around the engine, if all looks good, lift it more, then check around the engine, keep doing that and unplugging / removing everything thats still attached until its out. I did my engine pull on my own, and thats how i did it, just take your time and lift in stages, while stopping to check. and it will be out in no time matey. good luck.
  3. escort cosworth:whistling:
  4. ebay mate, there's a seller on there doing the panel retrim kit in a large choice of colors, but be warned he does not supply the seat retrims, only the side panels, glove box, under steering wheel and center console, basically, all retrims for the rest of the interior panels except the seats. for around £67 and £23 P&P due to it coming from the states. retrim kit
  5. Your a star mate, thanks for the link, very handy to be honest. Well from the looks of it, it failed the first time due to welding work that needed doing on the 22/10/08, from the time frame between that and the retest, id say the work was done at the MOT station, and then it passed on the 31/10/08 with these advisories. Date of test:31/10/2008Certificate issued (Pass) Odometer reading: 99,273 Miles (not far off what its reading now) Test class: IV Test expiry date :30/10/2009 Advisory Notice issued Front Brake disc(s) slightly pitted (3.5.1h) (checked these they look fine?) Rear Brake disc(s) slightly pitted (3.5.1h) (same as above) Exhaust has part of the system slightly deteriorated (7.1.1a) (slight? lol heavy more like it, but its not blowing) Offside Front Tyre worn close to the legal limit (4.1.D.1) (Different wheels on it now) Vehicle structure has slight corrosion (6.1.1) (Wing area near front wheel arches on both sides, have been crushed due to improper jack placement and has started to rust slightly) Tank straps corroded (??? ill check again, but they looked fine when i was under it the other day) Other than that, every thing looks ok tbh, so best option? 1. just book it for MOT, fill her up and take her for a good 20min drive before hand? 2. try and sort out the smoking problem first? and spend large amounts of cash that may or may not cure the problem. 3. break the car and get another one with the proceeds
  6. the last mot it had, had advisories but i have no idea what they are as the info is missing, i have no receipts for any work done since then (MOT ran out october 09), only before the MOT, so apart from the smoking issue, I'm sure it would pass but most probably with the same advisories, i know it going to need new bushes in a few places as some have started to perish, but i have checked and no wheel movement. I'm just worried ill do more damage to what ever it is, if i take it for a run on the way to the test, IE: HG.
  7. Si i have to ask, considering your well known for not liking most after market bumpers / addons and sticky out plastic things. you always know what it is when someone asks, how?
  8. Right i am completely baffled by this smoking business. i have searched here and there, on you tube, google. in the library, and even the archived sections. and so far not one post or anything has come close to describing what my smoking is like. I'm still yet to get a compression tester done, but from what i know it could be one of 3 things. 1, PCV valves, but as I'm yet to get down to the car long enough to get them off and see if they are clogged. and that the pipe work is ok. 2, Head Gasket is on the way out. but no compression tester to check the compression on the cylinders. 3, Too much oil in the engine, though this is hard to tell as the dip stick doesnt seem to be very accurate. Reason i have come to this conclusion is that my car smokes from cold from the moment you turn the key. it is white smoke, but thin, it smokes like its a cold day when idling, then if you give it a rev it boosts it out the back in a steady stream but dissipates rapidly even when the engine is up to temp and the exhaust is hot enough to be boiling all the condensation from it. I have no oil contamination on my radiator, and i have no water contamination in my oil. and since fixing the water leak to turbo, i have no rad fluid loss My car starts almost instantly, sits at around 1100 revs, then settles down to around 800 / 900 and feels very smooth. The white smoke smells just like the engine is running a bit rich. It does not smell like coolent or burning oil or both. From some very old JeffTT posts in the archives section (2002 posts lol) Jeff has posted quite a few times on peoples "my car is smoking" threads and suggested that it could be over filling with oil that causes it. I also found a handy smoking diagnostic post, but again after reading through it, found that none of the symptoms sound like my car. and it suggests that to test turbo oil seals, to run the car for 20 mins (which i can not do as it has no MOT or TAX), then stop the engine, start the car again and let it idle for 5 mins and you should then get blue smoke out of the back? which doesnt happen anyway as its white, not blue Does anyone have a compression tester they are willing to send me and ill send it back once I've tested my engine? and also a consultz cable or someone with consultz that can come and test my car? Can failing cats also cause smoke? as my exhaust is rather old, id rather not go throwing loads of cash at things that are not wrong with it and would much rather get straight to the problem and the cause. Sorry for the wall of text, but its getting to the point where I'm questioning whether to just break the car and sell it as parts and then buy a half decent one with the cash i get from doing it.
  9. he cant pm you bud, as he isn't subscribed
  10. bloody hell mate, you should of asked him if that was correct? sounds like you got short changed, £8 it about what is around here
  11. silver, you engine is way to clean, you need to use it more
  12. i feel for you bud, had my tools stolen with a car on ramps and axle stands and my gear box waiting to go in. bunch of low life scumbags
  13. i don't log into mine now full stop, saves a argument
  14. i would of thought z1 motorsport courtesy parts zcenter
  15. He's on about the garden si, not the curlys that keep the twig warm.
  16. baz if you can wait till i pop up in the week ill bring my tools and give you a hand
  17. bah, how did i miss this thread lol, could of PMed you my number, you could of popped in on the way back as im only a stones throw from the POD.
  18. aww i just went to post a birthday thread for silver and you beat me too it lol Happy birthday fella's hope you have a good one.
  19. Well the last stereo i took out worked fine. but it was a jumble of cables back there, until i dug out the connector for the stereo. and realised that the one that came with the car was indeed plugged into it. rather than being spliced onto the wires. so really cant work out where it went wrong when i plugged my CD player in. Only one that wasn't getting a feed was the +12v perm. so i swapped it around on the stereo side of the connector. to meet up with it. ever thing else looked fine. part from i then had a redundant illumination pin on the stereo side. Looking at the picture, looks like Ive managed to plug the +12v perm into the switched 12v instead. will be giving it a go once i can get down to the car. its already printed off and waiting to come down with me so i can sort it out. But as stated. ill use my old one for testing purposes. and I'm not afraid of the fuse box. already had it out of the car to sort out a dead A/C pod, that now works :D
  20. ah i see where my problem is, ill give it a go with my old stereo first as its doing the same on that but i dont care if that goes pop on me lol thanks bud
  21. well it has the block connector, buuut the wires for live and illumination didn't match up, there is a live for the stereo and car connection, but no illumination circuit on the car side? if that makes any sense, got a feeling that's the problem.
  22. put my cd player in the car but to get it to work had to swap the illumination pin and power pin, now the stereo turns on, but then if you turn the headlights on, the stereo turns off? and then turns back on again when you turn the HL off. now as much as i like the idea of a dash mounted remote, im not to keen on the idea of singing when it gets dark.

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