vodkashots

Warm or cold engine and what figures should i be looking for? Also, i found i have champion spark plugs, that have very sooty deposits, ive put in 4 NGK plats so far, need to get the balance bar off tomorrow and do the rest, but while im there, id like to do a Comp test. So again Warm or cold engine, and what figures for a TT

:) if you dont touch the cluth housing, friction plate, and flwheel, it should just slide back on, if you want ill pm you my number, if you get stuck, just ring

to protect the privacy of other zed owners, i decided against pictures bud, but lets just say, Jeff's spoiler is a one off, and his car and interior are stunning

thats just waaaay to clean :lol: looks awesome well done, just remember to video the first start

Was a nice day thank you very much for your hospitality. and thank you Jeff for the nice chat. was nice to finally meet you properly rather than you being completely rushed off your feet. And thank you to Linda, for making such a lovely brew and convo. Its always nice to see loads of 300's in one place. didnt see a single bloody one on the way to or from lol. And Jeff your car is stunning matey. and love the rear spoiler. first one ive seen that i like other than the standard one. Jeff you have a PM also.

bayside blue, yellow in bits, white with black bits on it and a wide arch kit. Last seen heading no where, in Zedworld :whistling:

Congrats matey, did the gear box trick work? by the looks of it, it did. Nice to know a bit of advice helped someone else out.

happy birthday matey

300zx + v6 TT engine + 20min run = more than 50 miles :whistling:

The restrictor is still in place, i used PTFE tape for now and pushed it into some spare rubber hose i had left over, as its not a permanent fix. i believe the restrictor servers a duel function, 1 to stem the flow of gases, but also as a means to stop oil getting to the valve. unfortunately over time, this gets more clogged until it eventually stops gas getting through completely, and causing the problem. I need to know the route the metal pipe work takes behind the engine, as if you were tracing it back from the plenum, through the valve, past the rubber pipe with the restrictor and then onto a thin metal bit of pipe work that vanishes behind the engine. as this also has a large amount of old engine oil sitting in it forming clogs. last thing i need to do is replace the rubber only for the metal piping to block instead. I left the restrictor in place as its there for a reason. i could try it with out it being there. as the passenger side pipe, doesnt appear to have a restrictor? but i cant be too certain as I'm yet to check properly. only other reason i can see that bit being in the pipe for, is to stop the pipe collapsing on its self at the bend. but its not great enough to cause this.

seemed OK, doesnt cut it with pipes matey,, had a air leak on my pug, traced it back to a split pipe that didn't even look split. open the bonnet, with it idling, and see if you can hear any rushing air, is the best way of describing it. can be hard to hear over the sound of a idling engine, but you will hear it eventually if there is one, get your ear close (but not too close or you will burn it lol) and go around the engine seeing if you can here one. if so you have a leak somewhere. And give each clip a check too see if its done up tight enough.

the cable for the alt, has the plug for the alt, and two wires close to it with hoops on them, that screw onto the back of the alt. hope that helps. then one end goes up towards the drivers wing area, the other end goes down to the gear box, there is a picture floating about but i don't have time to find it. ill have a look later and see if i can dig it out for you.

Temporary pipe in place, started the car, gave it a few mins to warm up, and gave it a few revs and no big clouds of smoke. just the normal condensation on the exhaust look. So i have a sneaky suspicion that the PCV valves were the problem all along. but need to get some go go juice to give it a better test. as its running low and i don't want to run it out of fuel. So going to get a 25liter Jerry can and top it up come the weekend and give it a proper test :D fingers crossed, then all it will be a case of doing is replacing them and then MOT time :D

loo brush thing lol, you lost me there.the pipe only had the metal thing with a hole in it. ive cleaned it up, going to reattach it for now and just replace it as its not that much. Hoping that even with it derestricted slightly that i lose the smoking, ill be a very happy bunny if it does cure it lol

yep got a small metal flow restricter that was jammed full of crap, that needed a very good poke to get the crap out, going to fit a temp pipe for now till i can get a replacement

Finally got the time and what a lovely day to do it too. to get to the PCV valves, started with the drivers side as that's where i have the smoke on that bank. managed to get the hose of, and soon as i started moving it, oil started dripping out (PCV valve side) got the pipe off eventually from the rear smaller pipe, and the pipe is actually clogged. there seems to be some kind of hard thing in it, about half way down that seems to be restricting the flow. of what ever it is, to the PCV valve. is this meant to be there, or can i just replace the pipe with a suit able substitute?.

Well i have to admit if it was a complete cover that did the plenum, id want one lol yes im sad, but would save me having to get it polished :P

Rest the throttle body cover over the top and get another picture up, I'm sure it would look a lot better, you have to remember your modeling it on something that's off the car and not in its natural environment. i believe you would get more of a feeling of what its going to look like if you just added a few more parts that will be on the engine if you put it on properly

Id like to give a big public thank you to 300_zedx, the turbos arrived this morning matey. got home just now to a very nice heavy box with two tubs in :D Will do some more checks on my car first before i commit to another engine out job first though. THANK YOUUUUU:clap::clap::clap::thumbup:

Right here is the plan lol Going to get hold of a compression tester, do the checks, and see whats going on internally. if all is clear, Oil change and fill to correct level following JeffTT's advice on one of the older threads. (basically filling up to a little under the max mark on the dipstick), book it in for a MOT if all is well. and take it for a 20min run before hand and see what happens. IF it passes even with advisories, throw a party for 2 months, and post every chance i get to say its got tax and Mot on it, and get on everyone's nerves about it..... :lol: (probably do that already mind you) if its still smoking then, change the PCV valves and pipe work. sort out the zorst. and change the turbos anyway. If it fails the MOT, but doesnt fail on excessive smoking. track down what the cause is. and proceed from there. if it fails on excessive smoking take a long hard think about just breaking it. but that would be last resort.

naa looks crap mate, you should send it to me, so i can fit it on my crap engine, in my crappy engine bay. :lol:

its easier than it sounds lol (reading over what I've put, i said the same thing twice) i just remember, if your car is low enough like mine was, also use the alloy jack you get with it, the slot in the middle of the jack goes nicely on the central "fin" of the gearbox housing. giving you and extra support.

use a trolley jack on the box at the pivot point. make sure the wheels are aligned front to back following the car. then lower and reverse a bit at a time, go slowly, and pull it back gently, be extra careful as it will want to tip and roll. but don't let it. take it easy till you clear the clutch housing. then best option as your on your own, is jack it back up against the body work, but only enough to hold it steady. plug the prop shaft exit with rag or something, other wise you will end up emptying your gear box oil out of the back. Then get started on lifting the engine. you will need to lower the gear box to get enough room to pull it back. and make sure your on the pivot point, if it starts tipping towards the engine, put it back, and move the jack. make sure you always have one hand on the gearbox, if it starts to tip, last thing you want is it falling on you, so be prepared to push it away from you if you cant stop it. and keep your fingers clear of the sides. as the gear box weights in at around 75kg, if your gear box falls off the jack, your going to have a big mess to sort out with transmission fluid, and that stuff stinks and ruins clothes. also a pain in the ass to fit back onto the jack on your own, lol. throw an old towel over the gear box so as not to damage the body work when securing it, and be mind full as it will only be the jack and body work holding the gear box up. unless you can brace it either side with wood which is a lot better.

my last car had a cream interior, and i found it was very easy to keep clean, just use baby wipes of all things lol Im not sure about the color combination unless i see it.

Im toying with the idea of getting the material in, and taking my seats out, unstiching them all, and using them as a template and making the seat covers my self. if you take your time and use a good stitch, or even better know how to use a sowing machine, you can get a good finish on it. and the beading is easy as well, just use a thin strip of material, and fold it over inbetween the two halves your sowing together.