vodkashots

I think your first port of call would be getting the engine running fine and sorting the map out for its final running set up. once thats done get a clutch thats going to handle the power your going to be putting through it :)

well then, based from your original question, if the contact surface is fine with nothing thats going to accelerate the wear on the friction disk, id say replace the friction disk and you should be all good matey.

pump was changed last week, so far since the original thermostat failure ive changed. thermostat twice, water pump for a new one. one blocked radiator for a clean one (albeit it did leak, but not sure how well that seal is, its not leaking but doesnt mean its not drawing air into the system)

might also be an idea to check the fingers on the clutch housing as these press against the clutch to engage it

check the flywheel face for anything thats going to cause excess ware, its essentially like a big brake pad and brake disk, so anything on the flywheel pressure surface that could impact the life of the clutch friction disk, is going to shorten its life. the disk might not be holding up to the amount of power your putting through it. what BHP are you running?

Picture 1. is the clutch housing Pictures 2 and 3. are flywheel all the others are the clutch disk that wares and causes all that lovely clutch dust.

by the looks of that, you just need to clean the clutch housing and fly wheel, and replace the clutch plate.

im getting warm air out of the heater but no hot air, seems there is a major blockage somewhere, again getting the top hard pipe go hot, but bottom one stays freezing and its that brand new thermostat you dropped off last night. something just isnt right. was just reading up on removing the heads, looks like im going to have to remove the cams as well to get to the head bolts but not sure due to the vagueness of the service manual. though to be honest, i really dont have the room for such major engine work as i think the engine is going to have to come out of the car if i have to change the head gasket. i cant even get it to a garage for a test as it over heats straight away. The car has only ever overheated to 127degrees once. all other times its over heated i have shut the engine down before the temp go to 105c which is with in Nissan's tolerance range. Ive been everywhere looking for leak test for the rad but no one seems to do a portable DIY kit? May be my head isnt thinking right, but at the moment i really dont know what to do with the bloody thing, apart from torch it.

well that failed miserably, changed thermostat for a brand spankers one after washing out the system and getting as much crap as possible out, and its still over heating on idle. so i give up. Most likely a small crack in the HG causing it now. only thing i can think of, even though no oil in the water or water in the oil. :crying: god the amount of work ive put into this bloody thing.

You will no doubt get loads of viewings, made me chukkle :) Im northampton side might have to get a northampton meet going at some point we seem to have a lot of members in northamptonshire with zeds.

A Provisional P2 licence (commonly known as Ps and Greens) is gained after one year and successful completion of a computerised hazard perception test. The driver is restricted to a speed limit of 100 km/h, a zero alcohol limit, and a maximum of seven demerit points; however, they are eligible to upgrade the class of their licence, such as those for heavier vehicles. P2 drivers must display a green-on-white 'P-plate' conspicuously on the exterior of the vehicle at all times. P2 drivers must hold the licence for two years before progressing to the next stage. Full, Unrestricted Licence A full, unrestricted licence is gained after two years and successful completion of another computerised test. Unrestricted drivers licences are coloured gold There are several common complaints about the NSW licensing scheme. The relatively high number of road accidents and traffic offences (such as speeding and drink-driving) involving P-plate drivers has prompted calls for further driving restrictions, such as curfews and passenger restrictions, as implemented in other countries. Also, the blanket speed restrictions on Learner and Provisional drivers can pose problems on country roads and freeways, where learner drivers are restricted to 80 km/h while other drivers may travel up to 110 km/h. Another common complaint is that it takes too long to progress to your full license. In Queensland and Victoria, this problem is avoided by not imposing speed restrictions on newly licensed drivers. There has been some criticism, especially amongst holders of provisional licenses, that the new laws punish the majority whilst it is only the minority that are the offenders. (copy and pasted from wikipedia lol - google matey :P) - added the rest as it makes more sence, as the P plate is limited to certain areas by the looks of it. Thats for white background, green P then there is this one P2 (Green) Probationary Licence The P2 Probationary Driver Licence came into effect from 1 July 2008. For probationary drivers obtaining a P1 Probationary Licence after that date, they may upgrade their licence status if they have had a good driving record for at least 12 months while holding the P1 Licence. The same P1 restrictions apply, except P2 drivers may tow trailers and use a handfree mobile phone. The peer passenger restriction does not apply to P2 drivers. They must display the white-on-green 'P-plates', rather than the red. If a person is over 21 when licenced they go straight onto the P2 licence for three years. P2 licences last for 3 years, making the minimum age of receiving a full licence 22 years, up from 21 years for drivers who obtained their a Probationary Licence before 1 July 2008. The minimum age for obtaining a P2 Licence is 19 years. All drivers who obtained their Probationary Licence before 1 July 2008 qualify as P2 drivers and must display the green 'P' plates. Driver Licence A full Driver Licence is obtained after the probation period. For drivers who got their P's after 1 July 2008, the minimum age at which they can obtain their full licence would be 22. There are few restrictions on fully licensed drivers, other than not being able to drive while holding a mobile phone, and the need to have a BAC under 0.05%. Full licences are valid for ten years, but can be made available for three years if requested. For more information on driver's licenses in Victoria which is for Green background White P Source http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Driving_licence_in_Australia

LOL what better way to show you love um than to stick it on youtube for the world too see :) where abouts in northamptonshire are you?

PeterM ive had to edit you post as a registered user isnt allowed to sell. I understand that its not set in stone yet. but you need to be subscribed first.

take it for a test drive, make sure it doesnt over heat, check for leaks under it, make sure the rear sills are good with no obvious sign of rust, regardless of whats been said. check all electrics work, make sure it doesnt smoke either on boost or off, or when coming off, or even on idle. condensation to start with is the norm so don't worry about that. Check to see if there is a misfire, or gearbox whine. any defect ask for money off.

ive removed the number for you.

hes threatening you with what? physical violence? tell him to bugger off, he looses all rights the moment he does that, ring the local plod and make them aware with his name and address, at least it will be on record then, keep what ever texts / Emails you have. Even if its not violence, the only time you would of sold a misrepresented car would be if you are in the car trade. The fact hes gone on to stick it on ebay with out even mentioning the gear box or this strange misfire, then surely he is now misrepresenting the car and you have every right to turn around and tell him again to bugger off, as he has discribed it as "Mechanically and structurally sound". Guy would of known before buying it if it was practical or not considering he'd "owned one before" he was just in it for a quick buck from what i can see.

Always loved the Aus number plate system, so much variety, matches the fact that almost all the zeds there were different in some way. Lovely set of photos there bud.

Lol not sure id want to do that too my zed, some other car may be would of given it a go too see, but not my zed. though people often look at me strange when i say ive cooked graphics cards with artifacting due to overheating before to fix them. (does work i might add)

i made a clutch alignment tool, all it needs to do is hold the clutch plate in place while you put the clutch housing over it and bolt it to the fly wheel. with my zed i used a socket that was just big enough to go into the crank hole, and then electrical tape around a break caliper piston pusher (not sure on the exact name lol) until the clutch plate would sit on it central. worked a treat.

tried some engine flush stuff, but was battling overheating at the time, so not sure it even had the desired effect.

fixed your puter then :)

matey, a dear friend of mine runs a forum soley for french cars, im sure you would get more help there. http://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/index.php

My red zed which wasn't standard stopped excellently on its OEM breaks with new pads. lovely job, i think with age the stopping power reduces so when we eventually buy a zed we think they are not very good, when in fact the are.

im limited to using loads of water containers, i live in a flat and can not get a hose pipe anywhere near the car. not sure the local petrol station would apprecate me hogging there jet wash to flush me engine LOL:lol:

you would be supprised how many times the bloody things had a flush, the water still looks rusty colored.