vodkashots

get the engine out, send it off to jimmer for a rebuild, while the engine is getting rebuilt get the engine bay cleaned and sprayed, simples.

Not if its booked in, ooh and oddly enough your car has to be in a fit state to drive lol VOSA state that its to and from the MOT, has to be booked in and your car has to have valid insurance if driving it to and from, no mention of distance, just says the quickest route.

Welcome back bud, get some photos up, always like seeing your car matey.

looks more like a hyundai coupe

happy getting old day bud:)

agreed, i was paying £415 fully comp on a 1.4l citroen ZX, where as a twinturbo 300zx is costing me just £330 fully comp talk about strange.

Id keep an eye on that, if it corrodes it will end up just breaking apart and you will end up with the same problem, may have been a better option to use a small plastic tube instead.

Went to top the rad up today thinking it might be low coolent level and that i was indeed loosing coolent somewhere, well rad was full and i couldn't get any more in if i tried. But had a closer look at my rad cap, seems the rubber is disintegrating around the lower seal. this will most likely be where the system is loosing pressure and most likely sucking air back into the system when its shut off. Ive raised the car again, with the rad cap off and brought it up to temp, and also turned the heater on, i still cant get any more coolent in the system, the thermos is now opening again as the radiator and lower hose get hot (although the lower rad hose is substantially cooler than the top one, temp held at 83 degrees, even on a run to take my little one to school. Hopefully a rad cap change will improve things and see where i go from there.

yeah but it leaks, was the reason i changed the rad. lol heater blows hot air, but sometimes does go cold again until revs are raised, but i cant get any more water into the system. its full. think ill be checking all clips tomorrow and tightening them to make sure its not sucking air into the system when it cools down. but stuffed if i know whats going on with this rad business.

the whole rad is cold, yet the top pipe is hot ? does that make sence? yet there is water in the radiator. the pipes to and from the top hose are not blocked, and i can put water through the rad (well when it was off the car). the whole thing is just confusing as hell. and to be honest im getting to my wits end with the bloody thing.

water pump was changed about 3 weeks ago, a week after the thermostat was changed as i thought the same thing, lack of flow. Radiator i believe is blocked anyway, but the nature of the thermostat is that it opens from the rear when the hot water heats the section inside the engine, thus allowing flow through the radiator. so it could actually be opening and the rad is just fecked now. System was kind of flushed, but not with additives. although the water was rusty looking, there was no debris of any kind. closest ive come to seeing something like that, was with the rad cap on one occasion that had like a rusty clay substance around it, but haven't seen anything like that since then, that was about 2 months ago. Getting to the point where im just going to say feck it with this zed. though, when Christmas and the first part of next year out the way, i might just get a jimmer rebuild on one of the 2 engines ive got in the garage and take this off the road till then and get the smaller issues sorted, and the manual gear box ready to go in.

Fitted correctly with the little wobbly pin at the 12 oclock position. cant say on stuff floating about in the coolent system, its failing to open again from what i can tell, top water pipe hot, bottom one and rad stone cold. the last one failed to open correctly and upon examination, there was nothing that was stopping it. could be heat though not sure why that would stop it working.

OK what causes these to fail? as i think the thermos has failed again with in a month of replacing it. the replacement was a genuine OEM part

standard recirc valves by the looks of them

i don't have a name for the car, my little girl calls it "the sports car" and my little boy just calls it car. Though im leaning more towards "*******"

if i can get my overheating sorted out ill try and make it with the kids and the mrs.

i found some of them too, was just lucky though i think, 2 sexy birds hiding in the boot.

daughter is called Keira and little boy is wesley, was with a woman whos kid was called brett at one point as well.

easy to do, remove the fuel pressure regulator and it will give you access, most will tell you to just tighten the hoses, but ive seen this fuel hose split due to constant tighting causing it to leak more. Given the price of a bit of fuel hose and new clips, id just change it.

MJP in the traders section http://300zx.co.uk/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=38

thats a manual rad, id need the auto one as its got the oil cooler for the gearbox in side it. Though, i still haven't fitted the manual box yet as want to get a new clutch and need to get the braided clutch lines as well yet.

move the passenger seat all the way, you can reach your arm up into the area where the targa drain comes down, it empties into the wing (dunno what nissan were thinking) the targa drain attaches to a L shaped pipe most likely its popped out of that. or its still connected and just dribbling into the wing.

i get the same, i just tell them to sit in the car and ill take them for a spin to prove the exhaust note sounds like im giving it a few beans when im actually not lol get some photos up as well

do i spy front wheel arch liners heading to the scrap heap? meh need some of them as well lol, oh well. bye bye wasp

Nope see other thread :( in help section Doesnt over heat to quickly but bloody annoying still.