vodkashots

Agreed, best film Arney did i recon, had so much atmosphere as well. might go watch it in a min lol

Alien (watched it at 8) Aliens (watched it after i watched alien lol) Sword in the stone (cartoon) Robin hood (cartoon) Goonies (loved it) Electric dreams Break dance films D.A.R.Y.L Wargames Tron Labyrinthe Dark crystal Space academy Predator Return to Oz Spaceballs Starwars the originals Watership down The secrets of NIHM Super man movies Flight of the navigator Jaws E.T Indiana jones films Few more but cant remember the buggers at the moment.

swap you mine for it :whistling:

i think its more to do with his satnav not liking anything more than 10miles from his home lol

invite the media as well, keep it peaceful, just be careful though that if your on there property you can get done for trespassing. though if you block the entrance on the public road, only think you can get done for, is obstruction.

So why do you want another one? yours looks fantastic as it is matey? dont you like it or something? lol

doesnt look like its got the rare quarter windows to me? here's mine, why would you want the rare quarter windows if your just going to black them out so you cant see them? still yet to plumb them in though so they dont light up yet lol

nope, just this minute clicked the link that hollowpoint gave on the first post, and it goes straight to the zed one.

my god why do that do that to a astra lol Zed sounds sweet on its standing start run through there though

try again bud, might of just been while it switched you over.

:lol: I take it, it would be ok to disconnect the boost sensor in the engine bay (black box with the vacuum tube coming off the balance bar) not that it would matter at the moment, as im still running safety boost and my dash boost gauge doesnt work anyway lol

Click user CP at the top menu bar, then on the User CP control panel at the left hand side of the screen click Paid subscriptions under the Miscellaneous heading, it will tell you there matey.

i don't get it, you have a balance bar to equalize it after the throttle bodies. are there any gains to be had by balancing them before?

on the out side id say most probably, on the inside, well thats why hes looking for OEM seats lol, bodge job on fitting S13 seats to the 300zx or something like that.

Funky was banned matey. As for commenting on peoples cars, well its a forum, if no one stated there opinion it would be one boring place, not everyone has slated it, this is the second time this week people have just focused on the negative comments and not on the ones where people have said they like it. True not everyone likes it, but at the end of the day if your changing your car and showing it off, expect to get negative comments as well as positive ones. Yes hes no longer on the forum, but his car isnt alive either, people comment all the time on other cars left right and center on car forums, if we stopped doing that may as well just not post unless you have a problem and need it sorted out. problem is, the Veilside kits are not the best looking kits out there and anyone doing research into that will know that they draw a lot of negative comments, so its then down to whether they can cope with those comments. FunkySi, didn't like anything other than stock and went a long way to upset the people who spent hours on there cars. it wasn't a one off it was constant. if it was after market, si didn't like it and would be very cruel in the way he put his points across (whether this was intentional or not is not know by me) Peronally i liked and got on with Si, but that doesnt mean he could bash people ALL the time just because it didnt go with his "OEM only" outlook. the passing comment here and there about not liking it, just shows its a matter of taste from people, personally i like the color, wouldn't have it on my car, but can appreciate the time and effort spent in making it look how it did. do i like the kit? hell no cant stand it. BUT doesnt mean i do not (and i most likely speak for others here) appreciate the time and effort and money ploughed into achieving it. When mine goes into the body shop next year for its respray, im dead sure people are not going to like what ive done, but you know what, its not going to matter, its my car, they aint going to be the ones seen driving it :)

dont break the bloody thing if you get it though lol

Not sure if its going to work, the last owner said it didn't give him extra boost. but considering im only getting 7psi with no error codes, i think it might be my OEM boost solenoid as my OEM boost gauge on the dash doesnt work, so if it gives me standard boost back id be happy lol

didn't want to muck me drawing up with extra lines lol i take it NC on the boost solenoid is open to atmosphere hence the air filter?

same wheels as dazvert has on his silver TT zed, http://300zx.co.uk/forums/vbpicgallery.php?do=view&g=782 Make sure they are defiantly plastic bolts before taking them off, if they are and there is no visible join, then id say good to go, as the plastic bolts will only be for decorative purposes to make them look like split rims.

Seen a few threads on this, but nothing definitive, Andy Isherwood mentioned the manual is wrong, so i drew up a quick image in paint, for those who have installed one before, does this look correct (and no laughing at me diagram, took me 5 mins to do that)

looks good bud, is it me or is your back bumper kinda dented? PS.. the 300zx was designed to run on 95 ron so you would be ok on that one :) but it doesnt like 91 ron, 97 - 99 gets better miles though lol

Posted 24 december 2009 Right, i think its been long enough for a update lol Jamie came and visited me from Zed world and bashed my old spigot bearing out, and kindly fitted my new one before darting off to work, so a big thank you to him for that. Fabricated a clutch alignment tool from a caliper piston rewinder, got the clutch aligned and fitted the gear box, filled her up and connected all wires, then on went all the bolts. and finally the prop shaft. Refitted the exhaust and did her up, and then got to work on the engine bay area. Had a bit of trouble figuring out where the small vacuum pipes went, but other than that, everything plugged in with out a hitch. was a bit nervous the first time i started her, but she fired strait away and sat there grumbling nicely. Then it was fault finding time with the little things, rear screen demister was first on the agenda, and a quick look inside the fuse box in the foot well, reveled that a 20A fuse was located in the slot next to where it was supposed to be, i moved the fuse over one (as according to my fuse box diagram there wasn't supposed to be a fuse in that location anyway) and on popped my rear screen demister. Next up was the horn that had been bugging me, so first port of call was the horn fuse in the engine bay, but that was fine, so onto the relay also in the engine bay, went to pull it out and the plastic top gave way, exposing the relay innards, on closer examination someone had put a small bit of paper between the contact points, removing this gave me my horn back. After the engine swap, i had a lumpy idle, nellys300 came over and spotted something id missed. there was a bit of pipe still attached to one of the vacuum pipes that runs to the carbon canister. looking at it, it looked like it was attached to something, but on closer inspection, revealed that it was short by about 5inches from reaching where it was supposed to be, a replacement pipe sorted out my lumpy and erratic idle. Next was the handbrake, as it was that high when engaged that if a woman was into that sort of thing, she would of had hours of fun. raised the rear of the car, loosened the 13mm nut on the hand brake inside the car. and left it in the off position. Then removed the wheels and putting the little rubber grommet on the brake disk at the 6 o'clock position, took the rubber out the way, and using a long flat head screw driver rotate the little cog inside, up until you encounter resistance. then move the cog 2 turns back to slacken it off slightly, and repeat on the other side exactly the same, turning the cog up to tighten. and 2 turns back to slacken it off slightly. this improved the hand brake dramatically and its now fully engaged with in 6 clicks. Next up was the head light problem i had. having read and posted on the forum, everyone was pointing to a bad earth, so i ran some tests. first i took the power from the good headlight on the passenger side, and fed that into the bad head light. then took the earth from the bad side and ran that to the open pin on the bad headlight, this would give me a true account as to whether it would be the earth or not. this seemed to cure my problem, and eliminated the bad earth possibility. that left just one thing, a bad live, so for now i have rigged it so I'm drawing power from the good headlight and feeding it into the bad headlight and using the normal earth. This gives me working headlights. I then replaced the front brake pads that were almost none existent. Then it was a few more jobs ready for the MOT left, mainly steering rack gaiter, missing wheel stud, new rear tires or so i thought, took the car down to my local garage to get some new tires on the rears. and caught a speed hump wrong coming back, and managed to put a 2inch gash in the underside of the car :( so thought id better check the rest of the car for bad rust, i new the car had surface rust underneath, but wasn't sure about how bad it was, so i went over the whole car and put my finger through one place lol, so now i have 2 spots of welding that are in need of doing. Wheel stud was also fun, removed the front wheels as needed to fit new brake pads anyway, undid the caliper and moved it out of the way, took the brake pads out and replaced with new, and took the disk off, hammered the old stud out and replaced with the new one, put the disk back on and making sure the caliper was out the way, tightened the new stud by putting the wheel back on and tightening it up with the bolt. Once done i removed the wheel again and went to put the caliper back on, as i did so the pipe crimped close to the nipple and then started leaking, so it was a trip back down to the local garage to get a new brake pipe. having replaced the brake pipe with a new bit, i then needed to bleed the brakes, the ABS is located in the boot behind a plastic bit of interior panel on the drivers side of the car. with two bleed nipples located on the top. one is for the front the other for the rear. having bleed both, i then proceeded to bleed the fronts first then the rear wheels. having done this i then bleed the ABS again just to make sure, using 1.5lts of brake fluid in the process (4dot). Next came the steering rack gaiter renewal, and i have to say i found this the easiest job to do. tools required are a 13mm spanner (not ring spanner) and a 22mm spanner.first undo the big nut (22) that tightens the tie rod to the front tie rod arm, if its well rusty you shouldn't have any problems with this part. and unscrew it till the upper tie rod arm comes away from the lower tie rod arm, now undo the bolt as the lower tie rod arm is no longer stopping it and it should be rust free allowing easy removal (stop the upper tie rod arm from spinning using the 13mm spanner on the hexagonal part of the arm). next slide the old gaiter off, and the new gaiter on, making sure to secure it with the metal tie supplied with it from main dealer. Once in place, put the 22mm bolt back on and do up till you get to the rust as this is your marker to keep it in alignment. next reconnect the two halves of the tie rod and do up again, but this time use the 13mm spanner until the bolt is back resting against the lower tie rod arm. tighten the bolt to secure both. job done When i was doing the tie rod gaiter. i found i had a leak coming from what is basically a metal collar on the high pressure pipe from the power steering, this and the welding are the only 2 jobs i know of that i need to do for the MOT. More to follow, along with a MOT pass or fail...

POSTED 18th of October 2009 Had the chance to get out to the car today and start the removal procedure. took the hood off and managed to drain and remove the radiator, although some coolant leaked out onto the garage floor when i was removing it. I've unclasped the throttle cable and also the cruise control cable as well, removed the 300zx cowling under the wiper blades, also something else i need to replace now due to the passenger side cracking because of old age. Still unsure how to go about depressurising the fuel line at the moment as the only documented way of doing it, involved the engine running. Another thing i noticed today, it would be a good time to get some new pipe work as the ones taken off the car, although in good condition are a little tatty. Cleaned the interior as well today, it now doesn't smell of mold due to being sat so long, and took the boot carpet out and gave that a good clean, im well pleased with the results, Also been looking at getting my own leatherette and doing the re-trim by hand with hand stitching, i think this will give it a more personal touch £18 for a roll of 25meters should just about do both front seats and the rear panels if i don't make any mistakes, i will more than likely have plenty left over for the side panels down near the middle center console and also the arm rest lid. Anyway here's some more pics to ponder over Rad removed. Dirty rad, this is getting a good clean, surprising how much crap can get in there. Piper work removal, bonnet removed, drainage tract from under wiper arms removed. this has definitely seen better days hmm wonder if i can get a perspex bonnet lol

Found it, it was in the journal section that you cant access, ill just repost it here, some of the images have been deleted but ill just copy and past it into here so you can have a good read up. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- POSTED 17th of october 2009 Hi all, welcome to my restoration project for my 300zx fairlady Z Its a 1991 Japanese import 2+2 N/A, it come to the country in 2005, and has had 5 owners previously to me, at one point it was owned by someone who was a member on this very site, though im still unable to track down who that was. I purchased it on the 17th of September, and went to collect it from benbecula on the isle of uist in the outer hebrides, unfortunately this was a bit detriment to its health, and does have some minor rust issues, I bought it knowing about an engine tapping, and after hearing it and gauging opinion on the forum and reading around, i believed it to be tappets: however on the drive to its MOT, it developed a hammering sound, then when slowing down to stop to find out what it was, it suffered con rod failure that penetrated the oil sump and locked the engine. I have managed to procure a new engine and this will be collected on Wednesday the 21st of October 2009. List of jobs on the car. (photos below) - Drivers side headlight repair due to not functioning correctly - Engine swap (DONE) - Full body Respray - Replace front bumper due to damage - Replace or recondition rear spoiler - Derust and treat undercarriage - Replace plastic cowling under front screen wipers as this is cracked - Spacers on front wheels - Retrim interior - Polish plenum - Clean and paint cam belt covers - Sort out a non working horn (DONE) - Repair non working rear screen demister (DONE) - Replace steering wheel (DONE) - Replace hand brake leaver or repair hand break button as its sticking (DONE) - Replace alloys - New brake disks and pads (DONE) - Change calipers for TT versions - New cam belt (DONE) - New timing belt and aux belts (DONE) - Replace manifold with stainless steel one - Replace normal dash dials with indiglo - LED pod light replacement - Replace dash board (upper) - Replace armrest - Repair A/C due to not blowing hot air (DONE) - Replace drivers side window motor - Replace / repair passenger side folding mirror due to it not working correctly - Replace Retracting boot cover - Clean up and respray wiper arms; Front and back (DONE) As you can see there is a lot that needs doing, the old girl wasn't really looked after very much, but all that is about to change. First of all meet the lady Now meet her in her current state :( Front headlight problems Repair work finished on the windscreen wiper arms More to follow