vodkashots

jesus, it never ends lol too many porches in there though, but some stunning shots no less.

here ya go buddy but as you said 300zx

Let me know how you get on bud :D and hope it helps. The wipers have a controller in them as well from what I've read on the aus300zx site, that controls the park function that can also cause the same symptoms.

Bud if you are sure on breaking, can i have the relay in the drivers wheel arch (see my thread click here ) with as much loom on it as you can, also do you have front wheel arch liners (all of it from front to back of the arch and if so how much.

think by the time I've finished, im going to end up with a frankenstein car, working but fixed by parts it never left the factory with LOL

So, washed the car yesterday ready for its polished and did the inside of the wheels arches, Please note i have no wheel arch liners. Once the car was all nice and clean, i turned my wipers on only to be faced with them staying on when the wiper control was moved to the OFF position on the pod. For a quick fix i unplugged the white box that controls the timing functions on the car (kick plate near the fuse box in the drivers foot well, ill up load with photos in a bit) So onto the diagnosis. Having read quite a bit on the forum, but with no definitive answer other than "change the white box" from various sources. i figured it couldn't be this, as it was working fine before i washed the car (although no intermittent wiper function), but not after, and i never jet washed the inside of the car lol. so first port of call was the drivers side targa tube to see if that was actually being channeled to out side the car. which is was. I also changed over the white box as i still have the one jeff sent me through, but again no change. Next up was the drivers side wheel arch, in the arch is a relay that normally sits behind the wheel arch liner (opposite the water bottle for the windscreen jets) pulling it out i noticed with the white box plugged in, it stopped the wipers, a bit of playing with it, it made the wipers do a few swipes. so considering the condition of it (caked in crap) i gave it a clean up as best i could jumped back in the car, and also managed to cure my intermittent wiper problem at the same time, once i figured out that i had everything working, i pulled it back out again, only this time i found out it was more than crap build up that was stopping it working correctly this is the wiper timing control box (white box), it also helps with the dimming of the dash, so once unplugged you will lose your dial lights. This is its location in relation to the drivers accelerator pedal. and a close up for you all (mind my dodgy wiring) This is the offending relay after being pulled out from the wheel arch and a close up so you don't get confused lol The cause of my loss of intermittent wiper, and then the fact i couldn't turn the wipers off. at the moment I've left it like this but cable tied a bag over it to keep the water out until i can get new relay holder, i might even relocate this as it seems a bit of a stupid location for it to be. But hope this also helps some of the people who have posted about this and not found the problem. The other area too look is the wiper motor on the windscreen if your relay is ok and your white control box is also good. I was lucky i didn't have to go that far as found my problem. just need to get it sorted out now and get some wheel arch liners as well to protect stuff in the wheel arch from this sort of thing. With the wire out and the bag over it, i get the use of my wipers back, but with out the intermittent function again. once ive fitted a new relay and relay connector it should all be working how it should be. Another problem found and another problem fixed.

mean looking thing, funny thing is, id just typed into google "mean looking cars" and this was in the images section

check the light fuses in the engine bay, big fuse box, im pretty sure the lights being on full beam is a safety feature for if your fuse blows, though not sure about them going out when the foot brake is applied lol

:blink:

pop over if you want, but already changed the gearbox and got it working, this thread is from back in august, found out after changing the gearbox it was actually the fuse, when the new gearbox behaved the same. I have a manual box to go on, but need to get a new clutch and some braided clutch line before i get around to installing it. i was just lucky at the time as i was replacing the engine, so made sense to change the gearbox just in case as the car was stripped down enough to do that with out putting my self out.

having changed a gearbox for a fuse, id say the first port of call would be the fuse, only when thats been eliminated from the investigation as a cause should you proceed to search for either a new box, or a manual conversion and save your self a head ache.

nothing wrong with TA mate, had a few friends in TA that still went afghan and Iraq with the regs for 3 month tours at a time, and served along side the regs in the same regions doing the same job, they all get my respect. shame i was medically discharged before i got my regiment or i would of been there too. so much for following in my dads footsteps

bear grylls is fecking awesome, does some of the most insane stuff, but hes all about extream survival while on the move. True facts though at aged 21 he did 3 years service in the SAS, during that time he suffered a free-fall parachuting accident in Africa where he broke his back in three places, after recovering he went on to climb everest. At 23 entered the guinness book of records for climbing everest as one of the youngest mountaineer to climb to the peek. in 1997 he become the Youngest Briton to climb the Mount Ama Dablam in the Himalayas In 2007, Bear attempted to return to Everest and become the first man to fly a powered paraglider to a height above the world’s tallest mountain. The expedition was documented for Discovery Channel, titled: Bear’s Mission Everest and the team raised over $2.4million in the process for Global Angels and children’s charities worldwide. He has lead teams to circumnavigate the UK on jetskis, raising funds for the Lifeboats, he has broken world records in high-altitude ballooning, skydiving and much more, including a world first for taking a rigid inflatable boat through the infamous, ice-strewn North West Passage. take me hat off to the guy, hes done crap loads for charity.

Did you check the compression on the block before ripping it apart to use? still think its piston rings, unless when they put the lifters in they didnt drain them first as they should come in a bag of oil and need to be emptied at the time of fitting, unless they are solid lifters.

thats some very low compression there bud, is it a TT or N/A? minimum from nissan is 142psi with no more than 14psi between cylinders Doesn't sound like sticking lifters to me, sounds like the piston rings are not sealing correctly. What did you do to this engine in the 4 years it wasn't working? I take it you don't need that PTU, as I've just changed mine to the S2 i had. with the oil in, you should redo the compression test see if it improves, if it doesnt then it could be valves or valve seats Problem is with such low compression across the whole 6 cylinders, id be inclined to believe its actually something to do with the head gasket, piston rings.

the tube for the passenger side comes down the A pillar inside the car and then connects to a L shaped tube that empties out into the wing, bit of a stupid design, but not as bad as the rear targa pipes, its accessible if you get down into the passenger foot well and reach your arm up inside the car towards the A pillar. If you open the door and have a look at the gap between the door and the wing, you will be able to see the exit pipe so you can judge just about how far up you have to reach.

Come on jeff, you forget to mention the diagnostic procedure. With help (trust me you need someone else in the car in the drivers seat or face your car driving off if you have a weak handbrake) stick it in reverse and check for reverse lights, if no lights, Change the fuse and you should be good to go. the reverse lights are on the same circuit as the A/T ECU, so share the same fuse. If not then you have a different problem. Jaikai, people can rib me all they like, im sure they have done equally stupid decisions with out checking the easiest things first.

The reason the spoiler and counter weight are so heavy id imagine is to help put weight on the back wheels to aid traction.

well you need to strip everything off to get to the water pump so may as well change the cambelt while you are there, and depending how much you want to throw at the old girl, idlers, and tensioner as well, change the thermostat as you will have that exposed, flush the engine and radiator Water pump would be best going to nissan as its cheaper than halfords one (halfords is about the only other water pump that should last just as long as the OEM one)

Happy birthday fella, hope you have a good one.

Happy birthday bud, hope you have a good one.

would depend on how it broke, if the engine was running when it happened, you could be looking at new valves if they hit the pistons and bent. bit of a gamble but i suppose its how much your getting it for as to if its worth it or not, i do have some 2 sets of heads if the valves are bent, but you would have to check for any damage to the pistons as well.

you can unplug the fan for now, just leaver it off at the edges and it should pop off to access the fan.

nope, but it wont stop it doing the noise for very long, you idealy need to replace it bud.

its a ambient temperature sensor for the heating, it does indeed house a small fan that usually end up making a noise and you cant figure out where the bloody thing comes from, you can disconnect the fan inside if it bugs you. or see if anyone with a breaker has a spare that doesnt make a noise.