vodkashots

Picture 1, Black cable that goes under the cut throttle cover, is the throttle cable Picture 2, Have no idea why there is heat tape over your powersteering pipe? Picture 3, Not sure what make induction kit (airfilters they are), Air con fan as standard, it will come on when the engine temp reaches 105 degrees or there is a open circuit on the temp ecu sender, oil cooler is for cooling gearbox oil not engine oil. Picture 4, yellow connector in the image is indeed the ECU temp sender, the small black one next to it, sends a signal to the dash temp gauge so you know how hot it is. Picture 5, Greddy boost controller unit, and the actuator valve by the looks of the black box and the silver cylinder, by the looks of it, you have a N/A balance bar on a TT Picture 6 second post, The thick red wires going to the neg, are the grounding kit for the engine, the wire coming from the positive and going into the wing, looks like it might be a amp feed wire for ICE install. Picture 7, The blanked off pipes are where the OEM recirculating dump valves were.

Once you have uploaded the pictures and it shows them in the image management box as just little jpegs text, right click each one and open in new tab, then copy the URL it gives for the image and use the "insert image" icon (little mountain with the sun on it) and past it into the box, it will then insert the image in code where ever your cursor is onscreen, so make sure you put your cursor where you want the image to appear. Or you can use photobucket.com to upload your pictures, and then when you want to use the picture, you hover your mouse over the image until it gives you the drop down box and just click the code setting, it will say "saved" then just right click and paste it into the reply

Pictures fixed, ill reply shortly

because by the time ive got through all these problems, ill have a car that shouldn't go wrong for 20 years lol Just want to add, the electrical aspect was hidden, i do not think taking someone with me would reveal that, unless i stripped out the interior to check, not only that the car was gained from helping someone else out as i was fed up with seeing them by a fooked zed. so i know it had issues, anyway most of these issues (apart from the over heating one) are not engine killers, so yeah it does have a few issues, but what car doesnt. they are repairable, which is what im doing, just nice to ask to see if anyone else has had the same issue and rectify them, so i have a port of call to start me off. In my zed ownership, I've over come a lot of issues that others would of done what you said, sold or broke the car, but I've over come them and my knowledge of the zed has grown that much better. Yes its a pain in the ass when you fix one thing and something else pops up, but then I've thought about splitting it, I've thought and very nearly did sell it, but then better the devil you know. if i get another zed its an unknown, not everyone is truthful about the problems with the cars they are selling, at least i know what the issues are with this one so can tackle them one by one until they are fixed.

seems a few Australian owners have suffered the same my dash cluster boost gauge has never worked (aftermarket does though), o2 sensors are unplugged as they need replacing, VTC's could be as i had a pipe burst near the drivers side VTC solenoid, if its the Idle Air Control Valve, damn it i sold my last one to car.mad some time ago but i doubt its that, as the car idles fine if the fuse is replaced before it blows again. Cant figure out what the FCID is lol

well the wing mirrors have been cut at the switch for some strange reason, the radio loom is the same, for some reason it was butchered even though i have touch screen in that doesnt even use it, the front side lights are wired in in what can only be described as "bodged" and im surprised they even work. Only saving grace is the new ECU loom for the coil packs and injectors. the gauges for the dash really need re-doing as its just a mess, the drivers electric seat was taking a feed from the ciggy lighter circuit :blink: as in spliced in, there is a multi charger powering the rear amps from the ciggy circuit as well but i haven't figured out how to take that out yet and keep the amp powered. its just one big ball ache. there is more that needs sorting electrical wise, I've tidied up as much as i can and made it safer, but really the car needs rewiring if im honest. Sod knows what one of the last owners was thinking unless he liked driving around in a zed that could potentially catch fire at any given minute. To top it off, although i changed my gearbox fuse that was down in the foot well and got my gears back, the cause of its blowing is totally unknown as it was blown before i got the car, so have no idea on the circumstances surrounding its downfall.

would seem im on my own with this problem :( I suppose the only logical thing to do with this car is strip it and get some new looms, what with wing mirrors not working, the ISO lead for the sterio chopped, the intermitant wipers not working and other dodgy wiring thats happened to this car.

If im reading this correct, then the fuse is located at the tip of the arrow, though im sure it says 13A, which would indicate a 13amp fuse surely, but there isn't a 13a fuse in cars. (can be found on page 72 of the electrical section of the service manual. really not sure what to check or where to check for continuity though, car can be driven just likes to die, i dont loose any lights or anything, i just end up with LIGHTS and DIFF OIL lights lit on the dash cluster and the car idles at around 640rpm and wants to cut out. ive wondered the same mate i really have.

Agree

confusing thing, think i might check the rear of the fuse box tomorrow see if im getting water from the targas on the back.

would that even blow the fuse? all the LED's that illuminate the gauges work, id have thought that a short in the system would just kill the lights to them. the gauge is supposed to change color when you press a little button on the face, but its not doing it now, but it hasn't been doing that for a few days now. looks like im going to have to get the multimeter out at some point, but the service manual is saying there are a lot of circuits on that one fuse.

well wasn't going to post till my overheating problem solve was at least a week old, but now have a problem, cars been fine for the past 3 and a half days, no over heating, can run above 50 and even boost with no problems whats so ever, but about half hour ago, my eng cont fuse in the engine bay (main fuse box) keeps blowing on me. any ideas? only thing i did was fiddle with my boost gauge (aftermarket thats plumbed into the dash) area as it was no longer changing color. is there anything in that area that is on the same circuit as the engine cont fuse. is it safe to drive with it blown? the engine wants to die on idle but that can be countered by giving it a few revs, i also get the LIGHTS and DIFF OIL light light up on the dash when the fuse is blown, but by all accounts when driving shes fine, only when she returns to idle does she want to die and even then, its only sometimes.

agreed, does look rather rusty on that rear sill area, wonder what other issues the car has. Gearbox issue could just be a fuse......:whistling:

easiest option would be engine out, you can though, 6 bolts and its off, don't forget the EGR pipe connected to the manifold though, unless you have already removed it.

because the v6 sounds better from out side the car when driving, and most ice installs that are of the "big" variety are for when the car is at shows and not going anywhere.

nout wrong with that, at least you can take your front bumper off with out removing the wings, and side skirts lol

lol, mines been called Nice supra (from a skyline owner) look mummy a lamborghini 200sx (wtf? lol) MR2? celica lol but yeah, a lot of people are surprised to find out shes 20 years old.

:lol: lol @ that dyno sheet "pooper charged" they even call it shite on the dyno sheet

and as i said, unless you can see inside to see whats going on, its a bit pointless saying its pointless, as you cant tell as all we are doing is guessing going by what we see on the outside.

there is a balance bar for a reason, so i doubt it would matter what turbo was feeding what bank, its just easier with the pipe work for the left hand turbo to feed the right hand bank (plenum crosses them over). the other thing is, unless you take the FMIC and split it to see whats going on inside. i doubt you can say its pointless using it.

In next weeks news, 22 Year old crashes the first Lamborghini Aventador in Saudi Arabia, long before anyone else had a chance to even drive it.

not that hard as long as you have 2 trolly jacks some board and the alloy jack from the boot. (if its auto) If its a manual, just slide under the box, pull it up on to your belly and then lift, once its on the clutch, you can crawl out from under the box and use a trolley jack.

twisted blade? id be careful due to centrifugal forces creating vibrations through the clutch onto the water pump bearings and knackering them. think thats how my last water pump bearings failed on my red zed.

i remember when i used to work for a company called Belgrade installation, installing cavity wall insulation, we had a few jobs in slough at the time, filled the van up before we set off, finished around 3pm, and got caught in traffic coming back, just came out of olney along the A509 and got to the BP garage, where me mate said think we need to pull over for some fuel, lights been on for ages now. just as we pulled into the forecourt the van cut out and we rolled up to the pumps only to notice all the bloody diesel pumps were out, had to call the boss so he could go get a jerry can of diesel so we could get to the next garage lol

mine doesnt look like its wobbling either and yes i have had a look as i checked after id changed the water pump, and also the other day when looking through the fan at the rad when trying to take a temp reading from it using a laser temp gauge (nope they do not read heat through a spinning fan lol)