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Medallion Man

Dormant Member
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    United Kingdom

Everything posted by Medallion Man

  1. I don't think you can use an ordinary timing light. (due to the coil packs)... but i may be wrong...
  2. it all depends on your definition of: Which Nation builds the "best" cars? is "best" 1 - most beautiful 2 - most reliable 3 - most powerful 4 - most sold 5 - last the longest 6 - How good it is to drive the statement is a bit to open for me to answer unless i specify what I think best means... :) and so in that you will have even less people agreeing... could do a Poll and rate each country for those type of traits..
  3. Hi, and welcome... sounds like you could be bringing some help here as well... :)
  4. a place to start is the drivers side kick panel, check the wiring behind there for corrosion (due to water leak from taga runoff pipe) and check the fuses there as well.
  5. LOL... I was told life was slow and relaxed down here but I didn't realize just how relaxed.... :D
  6. Maybe she let him out to play... :D
  7. ask them if it has pop up head lights.... the z31 has....
  8. 89.... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_300ZX
  9. lol... no argument here... a shed load of work has gone into that..... defo not my cup of tea!!! Yeah... way tooooo Orange!!!
  10. first disconnect the top plug... Start the car and let it get warm. Turn the idle adjusting screw counterclockwise to increase idle, clockwise to reduce idle. Z's with manual transmissions (TT or NA) should idle at 700 +/- 50 rpm. Automatics should idle 50-70 rpm higher when put in neutral. The engine will tend to idle no lower that 700 rpm, so I would suggest turning the screw counterclockwise until the rpms just slight start to rise. (this is easier to do with cozult or another program that will monitor the idle accurately) and a few of these link have info on it: http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/search.php?q=AAC&r=0&s=Search
  11. you need to unplug to top connector, then start the car and do the adjustment to get it ti idle at about 700 rpm (you might have to get someone to keep the revs up or just turn the adjustment a bit first)... I 'll see if i can find a link to the guide..
  12. FYI... http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=144850&referrerid=16305 if you can be bothered to read though it... LOL...
  13. the 300's have projectors in the low beam and so it's OK.... I posted about these proposed changes some time back and most people paid no head to the proposals... also too hard to police. if you find the actual proposal and read though you will find it's not as harsh as the people reporting it make out.
  14. I'be been signed for some time now.... if every motorist in the UK signed up the government would have to do something about it! The only reason the government has changed their stance on the NHS is because people complained!!!!! It's the same reason minorities get things done!!!! One thing is for sure...... if we say nothing they won't change it!!!!
  15. http://nissan4u.com/parts/300zx/er_z32/1992_4/type_1/body_side_and_rear/trunk_lid_fitting_trunk_opener_and_trunk_room_trimming/illustration_1/ and keep this in your favourites so you can look for other stuff: http://nissan4u.com/parts/300zx/
  16. A guy at my work has just bought a second hand one... 1.9D, he's very happy with it.. I hope you one will be a good one as well.
  17. lol... yeah, kind of rhetorical really ... you can only do it if you have the hardware that will do it... and you know how... not everyone can do it. but you are right it can be done... it's just that this guy has particularly asked for printed proof... :)
  18. and how do you print it then?
  19. LOL... never seen a scenario where it was up to the owner to provide an HPI check... get him to do it himself... LOL...
  20. i didn't think they did free HPI checks....
  21. OK, it could be the tappets/lifters but that would mean that there isn't enough oil getting to them (particularly if it stops after a bit) so it could be the oil pump but again could also be a blockage or need a good clean and oil change. it could also be the turbo/s as they sometimes can make noises that sound like tapping. or could be bearings at the end of the cams or the big end.... I'd say cheapest option first, get someone to have a listen with a stethoscope to confirm where it's coming from. e.g. http://uk.ebid.net/for-sale/new-wolf-mechanics-stethoscope-garage-car-workshop-29870732.htm?from=googlebase in either case a full oil change and clean may help. i hope there will be some other opinions on this as well......... :)

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