Medallion Man

right have you swapped the ecu temp sender unit? if that is no good, it could be making the ecu think the car is still cold and over fueling but the rest of the engine is tying to run at temp and could cause it to stall (particularly an auto) and i don't think that would throw a code. easy way to check is with conzult as that gets the temp of the ecu and not the gauge. if not you can check resistance with a multi-meter, to warm it you could put it in hot water... ouch.. ouch... lol... for the vac/pressure test on the induction / vac system: you can make something up like this: http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_plugins/content/content.php?content.89 then put it in place of the air filter and pump air into it... it should hold pressure... don't go high... 15psi is fine, if there is a leak you will now soon enough... it's just finding it after that.

yes... internal diameter of the three different small hoses are 3, 6(or 5) & 8mm... pretty much standard...

there is another possibility... there are two issues that can happen with the clutch. 1 - if not put in right the thrust bearing can be incorrectly engaged in the release arm... 2 - the ball head fulcrum can break off and cause the release arm to bit a bit floppy... do a search for posts by JeffTT on the subject, I think you can check both without getting the box back off but it's not easy... perfect time for one of those inspection cameras. good luck ( it would be better for you if it is the slave..)

yeah, agreed... but you can have a conversion done and put a clear lens over a red one giving you that look from any angle. That is exactly what i'm currently doing to mine... :)

LOL... well for me it was a decision between having a bank account of having a Zed.. :) best of luck.. if it is fuel starvation then there is a relay for the fuel pump in the drivers foot well just near the bonnet release and also a fuel ECU beside the back seat passengers side. there is a guide for by passing the ecu either on here somewhere or on one of the other (Oz & US) tech sites

welcome.. :)

mate, there are so many things that make a Zed run like crap.... Has all the preventative maintenance been done? clean all connectors (including battery) and check connections are good. check ECU temp sender unit Check ECU fuel temp sender unit clean or replace plugs clean or replace air filter replace fuel filter check fuel pressure check for fuel leaks check air intake system for boots leaks check TPS for correct voltage check timing with a light check injector are working

yeah, my previous ones where down neat the intercoolers on the old recirc pipes... you will however need an adaptor.. like this (but obviously you have to get the right size) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-Adapter-Flange-O-Ring-Circlip-For-Fitting-HKS-SSQV-BOV-Blow-Off-Valve-/400313239911?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item5d34874967 the other option is to put them on the pipes to the TB's but again you need the hard pipes... like this..

on a slightly different note... has anyone see the trailers for the new Starwars series coming out... Starwars Detours (CGI) http://www.starwars.com/watch/detours/

Hi John, right, high idle can be down to a number of issues and there isn't a magic "high idle fix". If a car was an auto and has been converted to a manual but still has the auto ECU without grounding one of the wires (can't remember which one) it will cause high idle. Other causes can be ECU temp sender unit not working (the one with two wires), bad IAA unit and/or other setting wrong (to name a few). first the car should be kept maintained, filters, plugs, oil (but you're on that), all connectors checked and cleaned (i.e. no corrosion and correctly seated). TPS should be set to between 0.4 and 0.5 V (0.45 is good, I think it varies for auto to manual). Timing should be set with a timing light to 15 TDC, adjustment is done by turning the CAS unit. Once these are set right then the idle screw can be adjusted to the right amount (best to use consult to see accurate revs but can be done OK using the taco). check in the Tech FAQ's (on this forum) for info. this is a guide for idle adjustment also a good site for info: http://z32.wikispaces.com/Idle+Control FYI... turn car off before connecting AAC plug, then back on to adjust. Also here for guide (and another good tech site): http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_plugins/content/content.php?content.335 and another great tech site... http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/tech/tech.aspx

on a different thing... these are good for doing the timing: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gunson-77074-Spark-Plug-Extension-Leads-Spark-Tester-/400320911839?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item5d34fc59df or the cheaper option... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SPARK-PLUG-TESTER-IGNITION-SPARK-TESTER-/330783100179?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item4d04358d13

could try at a service station... use the type pump... that is a good point... I always put mine on a steep incline to get all the air out..

OK, but how about stuff for the Zed.... :tongue_smilie:

LOL.. I wish I had a nice big garage as well... :)

I've got a spare air reg that is damaged but might still have some good part if you want it... (FOC)

hi and welcome... I've had 2 Mk3's previously (an NA and a turbo).... as much as I loved them, unfortunately they don't come close to the Zed. I was on the mkiiisupra.net forum (and a US & Oz one as well)

LOL.. they are not called "back seats", they are called "economy class"... very small people only... :)

yeah, and agree but it's worth doing a thorough check... both by trying to move them and with the engine running and pressing the accelerator... It wasn't easy to see mine where the problem. :)

I got all exited until I saw the price... but as you say not to bad considering how important the job is.. :) just bought these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10PC-NEEDLE-FILE-SET-HOBBY-140MM-VALVE-SET-MODELING-/251108799539?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item3a77403433 until I can muster the courage to spend the money on ones you posted...

that's what happened to mine... symptoms can be varied depends on how easy the pip/s come out and go back in... so agreed, might well be the cause, certainly worth a check.

well then I agree with your diagnosis on it being the IACV .... could take a bit more playing around... if it still won't work I guess go back over everything to rule stuff out again... lol... good luck.. :)

I assume you've ruled that it is definitely the turbo.. (oil in the intercooler/induction pipes) as far as i know there are few companies that recon and or check turbos... someone might post. did you try a search for that?

I guess you have checked the timing with a light? and done all the connector cleans..

lol... :)

my info is from the word of JeffTT.... I'm sure there is no higher... lol.. :)