Medallion Man

well that would be a yes then.... you could also flush it out with a hose after they're off... :)

no... :( can't see any oil in the intercooler pipe to the TB. changed the PCV and it kind of reduced it a bit. compression on the three cylinders on that side are around 140 (but really should to do it again with all plugs out and throttle open). I read on the Oz forum that the X or H pipe exhaust can cure the issue with smoke due to leaky turbo (however does sound a bit like magic to me). then again, a lot of the guys swear it works.... This is what one of the posts I found says: Depending on your exhaust design, often an easy fix is having a H pipe fitted just behind the cats. A H pipe is just a short length of pipe which joins the two sides together. This has been very succesfull in the past with similar complaints to yours. Your exhaust guy and mechanic will both tell you it won't work, but just get it done. For the $50-100 it may cost it could very likely fix the issue. The reason it works is a bit technical and I don't claim to completely understand frequencies and wavelengths etc but basically each cylinder puts out a pulse into the exhaust, the frequency and timing of these pulses can coincide with the resonant frequency of the turbine seal. That seal is exactly like a piston ring in type and operation, using the pressure in the turbine housing to force the seal into the inner edge of the groove and the bore surface of the turbo chra. When that seal vibrates or more accuratley resonates, it can no longer stay in proper contact and allows oil past. Fitting the H pipe allows both sides of the engine to flow into a common chamber, with opposing pulses cancelling each other out you increase the resonant frequency to a higher level. At that higher level, you have more rpm, load and therefore exhaust pressure to over come the vibration of the seal.

lol...

only subscribed member s can PM... so you won't be able to work out how to unless you cough up some pennies ... :)

Ah, right you're saying the oil is going out the turbo seal to the hot side.... I did wonder about that but from all the stuff I could find it's very rare.... I'm running JWT 530BB's got them already on the car, can only assume their about 5 years old.

hello and welcome, sorry to hear that mate..... but since you haven't had any problems for a year I'd say you were doing well.... I'm sure someone on here will be more than happy to help you out. Au revoir

are you talking about just behind the door. bottom of the wheel arch? there is a kit for that (as far as I'm aware).. look in the trader section.. is this what your talking about? http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?161548-rear-wheel-arch-rear-sills-for-both-sides&highlight=panel

:yes::yes::yes::yes:

interior trim colour code part of the same link... http://z32.wikispaces.com/Color+Codes#General Statistics--Interior

LOL... NicciZ ... please edit the last bit of that.... I nearly typed something naughty.. :)

ta... which one? you have quite a few... can't really tell by the heading.. :) I hope there is a solution.. (that I'm going to like.... I don't like sad endings.. lol)

and this is good if you want to know the year of manufacture of your JDM Zed. . www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107...php?content.79

VIN plate.... I think this might be USA.. http://z32.wikispaces.com/Color+Codes I just checked and it works for mine... (It's a JDM)

Thanks, and good point, and exactly what I did when doing the test…. But brain slip when doing the guide..lol.. Couldn’t get the gauge to face the cabin on all cylinders so could only see it a few times, really need another set of eyes or a mirror.. right I see… not what I want to here.. thanks… :) Cheers, I should have put a bit more info in the post. Right so this is only the passengers side. A little smoke just after it fires up, not as soon as you turn the key. Not really any at idle, although you can smell it a bit. Then almost none, and slowly it starters to come back. Mostly at low revs or when hitting the throttle hard. Hardly any visible on the motorway but I guess travelling at 70 would disperse little amounts. If I sit and blip the throttle (not hard) it puffs out smoke. I thought turbo straight away and took the TB pipe off… clean as a whistle !!! The dipstick isn’t popping out and the oil pressure seems fine (not too high). I went to a wedding last weekend and had clouds of the stuff out the back driving around lanes. The next day I swapped out the PCV on that side and made a “U” bend pipe, that helped with the clouds on smoke but the other symptoms are exactly the same. And thanks to all for your replies… :)

when you say you've spoken to Jeff did you also take it to them? what have you done to try and fix it & what checks have you done? what other work have you done to it? did you check and clean all the connectors? like Vod says it might be one of the regulators... do a fuel pressure test, that way you can confirm or rule out a problem there. there is a relay in the drivers side foot well for the fuel pump as well, that may have a bad connection. check the fuse under bonnet drivers side near firewall. check the fuel pump connections (under tyre well). good luck.

yeah, I agree with both of these as well... do the easiest first...

thanks both... good points.... to answer your question... smoke... blue... one side.... almost all the time... worse some times.... :( it's embarrassing :blushing: I keep telling everyone my car is like one of the red arrows.... blue smoke trail.... currently in talks with Zedworld for scenarios and costs.. :) I've replaced the PVC and even made a bent pipe to see if that would reduce any oil being pushed up it.... made a small difference but the point still is what is causing the oil to be pushed up there... To me it would suggest valve stem seals.

i have a nightmare with a problem on mine.... turned out to he a short at one indicator... however I don't think that is what's wrong with yours.... have a look at the indicator stalk and connection and maybe the the fuse in the drivers foot well. bottom row forth from the front.. http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?164654-Fuse-box-translation&p=1677536#post1677536 the hazard one is top row second form the front... If it has gone, then you have to work out why it blew.. check from water in the area.

very nice....

it will be the only cheap thing about the car.... :)

LOL... you assume anyone else has money left over for fishing as well.... I have never really fished but I did give up golf... :) but I'm definitely not asking for anyone's balls!!!

OK, So here’s the revised guide…. Is this OK? Prerequisites: A good time to change spark plugs so get a new set (HGK’s PFR6B-11C). Also a good time to check and clean coil pack connectors, so emery board & contact cleaner. You may need some silicone gasket sealant or new O rings for the balance bar. Make sure the batter is up to it (i.e. well charged). Obviously the right tools to remove the balance bar coil pack brackets and spark plugs. And again obvious, a pressure tester with 14mm thread, ensure it either has an extension of will fit down the cavity. Compression test: 1 - warn the car up to normal running temp (should take about 10 min). 2 - remove, fuel pump fuse (and or disconnect CAS connector) RHD cars - on drivers side near firewall. 3 - remove, balance bar, ensure you do not loose the three rubber O rings/seals, 4 - undo coil pack connectors then remove coil packs and spark plugs (so as to allow as least resistance as possible, battery will last longer). 5 - connect pressure gauge up to one of the cylinders, hand tight. 6 – press fully down on the accelerator and turn engine over, 6 times should get a good reading (this is to open the throttle bodies to allow as much air in as possible). 7 - repeat point 5 & 6 for all cylinders and write down the results. Info and checks: NA - Min 142 psi, max 186 psi TT - Min 128 psi, max 171 psi (no more than 14 psi deference between any cylinders). If any of the cylinders are showing lower pressure (obviously check it a few time first and check the pressure tester connection) put a bit of oil in the cylinder (method – one at a time get a small piece of vacuum line or fuel line about 12 inches long. I use a syringe type turkey flavouring injector but anyway you can measure and insert about 1 tablespoon of oil into the cylinder, do the test again and if the pressure looks better after this it would indicate the rings are leaking. If the pressure is still low it would indicate: 1 - head gasket (should have other symptoms for this as well, i.e. bubbles/CO2 in the water or possibly if bad enough mayo in water or oil) 2 - valve stem seals (again other symptoms with this, i.e. burnt oil). 3 - valve seats not closed flush (reduces performance and/or un-burnt fuel/ black smoke/backfiring if it’s the exhaust ones). Finish: Put your old/new spark plugs in, coil packs, reconnect coil packs (check and clean connectors if needed), balance bar (check O rings) and reinstall fuel pump fuse (and/or CAS connector, check and clean).

LOL.. disconnect the connector... not remove the unit... :)

thanks.. right.... didn't mention warm car up but knew that.... do'h didn't mention connectors (kind of obvious)... but work putting in because they are a bit of a pain.. 4 - fuel pump fuse near batter????? you nicked this from a us site. lol... I was only doing it about 4 times... but good to know that is the minimum.. i knew there was a differences in compression for the NA and TT but thought that was in the 186 to 143.... so really good to know that the TT is lower... 128 - 171 I'll re do my list so it takes into account all the info that's relevant.. thanks to all.. :)

I bought 2 (one for top and one for bottom) from here: Titanium Socket Cap M10 x (1.25mm) x 20mm £15.24 delivered.. http://www.pro-bolt.com/titanium/titanium-bolts-socket-cap-tapered.html?cat=1024