Medallion Man

I don't know how accurate it is but seems good... might be of use to someone.. http://twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/technical/view/699268/NA-amp-TT-differences-and-swap-facts-I-have-been-compilinggtgt.html

yeah, great work... but someone stuck an ironing board on the boot!!! :)

OooHhh... Poo.... there should be some kind of physics law that it only snows on the mountains / hills... :)

window is most likely the unit in the door... dry solder, common fault. and have you confirmed date of manufacture as imports are often dated wrong. see here for chassis number: http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_plugins/content/content.php?content.79

nearly... As well yes you can't sell unless you are a "Subscribed Member" (i.e. paid)

and unfortunately as a registered member you can't sell on here... must be a paid member.. i can see that part being removed....

Bling (Dan) is looking for a Zed... maybe have a word... at least it will stay with the forum... and he might even sell it back to you later.. (that is he he does buy it off you) :)

this will help... http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_plugins/content/content.php?content.498

bit of a pain... there is a pop clip near the latch behind the door rubber. the rest of the trim is held in place be being under the wing mirror and clipped on to the door skin so it just pulls up... it's best to use a plastic took to pry it rather than damage the paint or just pull it and bend the trim.. once the trim is bent it will make it very difficult to put back on another car. there is a guide somewhere, either on here on the Oz forum.. I'll have a quick look for you.. :)

I just looked at the parts catalogue and found this… Jan 92 LDH – RH B601037P10 (housing 2601437P10) LH B606037P10 (housing 2606437P10) Jan 92 RDH – RH B601037P00 (housing 2601437P00) LH B606037P00 (housing 2606437P00) So you should be able to find those numbers on the lights

registered users can't receive or send PM's.... you'll have to exchange emails addresses on the open forum... :)

mate gutted for you... sorry I can't be of any help....

I didn't notice there was a Zed in that pic... :)

LOL... this is a bit like a really hot girl... that's pigeon toed.... :)

well I for one am impressed with the work you've done... nice job.... :)

Hi, got them today, a big thanks... :thumbup1:

:)

Hi, if you use a volt meter (or simple wired bulb) and connect one end to one of the wires for the switch you will be able to determine what side is controlled by the switch. obviously don't unplug the unit.. it might be a bit tight getting a probe in there but you could unplug it, connect the wires up and then plug it back together.... dose that make sense?

Hi, in case you didn't know...... you need to take the switched power supply and run it back to the rear of the car... (i.e. or they will just be on permanently) you can then earth the new fog lights to any earth back there. have a look at the wire diagram with colour codes (in the service manual) to see which way the supply goes.

what are you going to do? the conversion of an NA engine sounds like a lot more trouble than just to by a turbo engine with manual grearbox (and all the ecu, loom, drive shaft, induction.. etc...) be prepared to spend a lot of money!!! lol... or better still.. sell it and buy a turbo manual.

could also be the water pipes under the plenum or to the EGR... unless the by-pass has been done...

how much were they?

how do chickens dance?.... chick to chick....

H3 very slight mod if JAP (i.e. to convert the old H3C type)... also I found it much better to get a relay harness so pulling the power direct form the battery and using the 20 year old wires on the car. that also made the conversion easier.

a Very Merry Christmas to everyone... :)