Medallion Man

are there any switches on the throttle pedal? have you tried moving the harness at the back of the engine? have you checked all the connectors for corrosion and good connection? and the little fuse box to make sure they are all good (particularly the fuel pump one)

LOL.. "naughty" .... bl00dy predictive text....

from that angle your vert looks like a ute... :)

lol.. thanks for sharing that.... I'm smiling now.... :)

really making me cringe...

found this on the TT site... very interesting and may help someone... http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/general/view/2521049/Interesting-fix-for-irratic-hesitationpower-loss-issue.html

like I said, its a regular problem... these cars need REGULAR preventative maintenance... best of luck...

this is also a possible explanation of his participial symptoms.... (due to the situation and age of parts) The clutch master has a small hole at the back of the master cyl, when the Master cyl is not depressed (and the pedal has freeplay), the fluid is allowed to enter and fill the chamber, also the fluid is allowed to travel back into the reservoir as the fluid heats and expands. If the hole is covered (from slight pressure of the pedal assembly), the clutch will slowly dis-engage as the fluid heats because the fluid has no where to go as it expands, except to push on the slave and release the clutch if the hole is closed. The 300zx twin turbo also has a clutch booster, the clutch booster has a pin that also has an adjustment, if this pin is extended too far for any reason, it will close the hole on the master and cause the clutch to not fully engage when the fluid is hot just like when the pedal is adjusted wrong. The booster pin should never need to be adjusted, but if someone ever did make an adjustment and made the pin too long, the pedal adjustment will not matter as the pin would push on the master even with freeplay in the clutch pedal. Since your stating the pedal engagement is moving, it is certain the master hole is covered due to a incorrect adjustment. Because the twin turbo Z has a clutch booster, it is difficult to feel the correct freeplay and the pedal should not be adjusted by feel. The true way to adjust the pedal correctly, is to first back out the electrical switches at the top on the pedal assembly to allow a longer pedal travel, then adjust the pedal pin to cause the switches to just barely close. This will ensure the pedal has freeplay, from that point on, the pedal should never need to be touched again, that is maximum adjustment for release and full engagement. If your not getting enough release, you have a different problem, not the pedal adjustment. If you have already made a bunch of adjustments, shorten the pedal pin adjustment until the pedal no longer pushes on the switches at the top of the pedal assembly, once you see the switch pins exposed, you can lengthen the pedal rod until the switches just start to close and you will be golden. If you still have trouble after adjusting the pedal as described, check the pin adjustment between the master and booster. More info on how a clutch works....... The pressure plate is basically a coned spring diaphragm. The diaphragm has zero pressure when it is not bolted to the flywheel and is not sandwiching the disc. The fingers of the pressure plate diaphragm when not bolted down, stick out away from the side it bolts to (Toward the transmission) As you bolt the plate down to the flywheel, the plate compresses the diaphragm, as you tighten the plate, the pressure of the diaphragm increases the tighter you get the bolts until it is fully clamped. As the diaphragm gets compressed from tightening the bolts, the fingers get pulled back toward the flywheel. The diaphragm has the highest pressure when the diaphragm is flat, less than flat is less pressure, and over center the way the T.O. bearing pushes the fingers also drops the pressure. The way clutches are designed, the fingers are perfectly flat when the pressure plate is fully tightened with a new disc. As the disc wears the pressure also decreases, this is why a clutch slips when the disc is worn out and is thinner. This is also why clutches have a more difficult time releasing when they are worn out. What happens when everything is new and perfect, the diaphragm is flat and the throw-out bearing pushes the diaphragm over center to pulls the pressure plate away from the disc. If the pressure plate is not bolted down all the way, or the disc is worn badly, the pressure will be less to hold the disc, it will also require a longer stroke of the clutch pedal to get release. The reason it requires a longer stoke of the clutch pedal for release for the above, the fingers of the diaphragm are sticking out toward the T.O. bearing more if the disc is worn or the plate is not bolted, so in order to release the disc, the T.O. bearing has to first make the fingers flat before it can push the fingers over center to release the clutch. (Travel much further to obtain release) and link to guide for adjustment.. (if you din't already know how) http://specialtyz.com/blog/?page_id=178

what makes you think you need this? and Nos is spot on... (and you can test first cold but remember your battery may not hold out) this is a little more step by step (from a previous post): Prerequisites: A good time to change spark plugs so get a new set (HGK’s PFR6B-11C). Also a good time to check and clean coil pack connectors, so emery board & contact cleaner. You may need some silicone gasket sealant or new O rings for the balance bar. Make sure the batter is up to it (i.e. well charged). Obviously the right tools to remove the balance bar coil pack brackets and spark plugs. And again obvious, a pressure tester with 14mm thread, ensure it either has an extension of will fit down the cavity. Compression test: 1 - warn the car up to normal running temp (should take about 10 min). 2 - remove, fuel pump fuse (and or disconnect CAS connector) RHD cars - on drivers side near firewall. 3 - remove, balance bar, ensure you do not loose the three rubber O rings/seals, 4 - undo coil pack connectors then remove coil packs and spark plugs (so as to allow as least resistance as possible, battery will last longer). 5 - connect pressure gauge up to one of the cylinders, hand tight. 6 – press fully down on the accelerator and turn engine over, 6 times should get a good reading (this is to open the throttle bodies to allow as much air in as possible). 7 - repeat point 5 & 6 for all cylinders and write down the results. Info and checks: NA - Min 142 psi, max 186 psi TT - Min 128 psi, max 171 psi (no more than 14 psi deference between any cylinders). If any of the cylinders are showing lower pressure (obviously check it a few time first and check the pressure tester connection) put a bit of oil in the cylinder (method – one at a time get a small piece of vacuum line or fuel line about 12 inches long. I use a syringe type turkey flavouring injector but anyway you can measure and insert about 1 tablespoon of oil into the cylinder, do the test again and if the pressure looks better after this it would indicate the rings are leaking. If the pressure is still low it would indicate: 1 - head gasket (should have other symptoms for this as well, i.e. bubbles/CO2 in the water or possibly if bad enough mayo in water or oil) 2 - valve stem seals (again other symptoms with this, i.e. burnt oil). 3 - valve seats not closed flush (reduces performance and/or un-burnt fuel/ black smoke/backfiring if it’s the exhaust ones). Finish: Put your old/new spark plugs in, coil packs, reconnect coil packs (check and clean connectors if needed), balance bar (check O rings) and reinstall fuel pump fuse (and/or CAS connector, check and clean).

Yeah, I agree but for the age and use of it, that just doesn't make sense.... i wonder if there could be another reason, like an issue with the master, slave or assistance unit. did the clutch pedal feel strange/ different in any way? what is the fluid level like?

now that is some collection.... guess it will be work a lot of money when he grows up.. :)

show off... lol... don't really need one as you can get bye without but there is some useful info in it. priced them up at Nissan years ago £20 but too many other things to get that were more important and really didn't want to fork out £20 just for the sake of having it. so download from Nissan for nothing... bingo.. I'm happy now (even if someone has put the steering wheel on the wrong side.. :)).

I've been looking for these online for years.... they didn't have them on the Nissan site but I was sure that one day they'd come up with the goods... so finally here it is... 91, 92 & 93 (left hand drive) but its free... :) http://www.nissan-techinfo.com/deptog.aspx?dept_id=39

don't panic yet.... clean the contacts fist....

yeah, check and clean all connectors (make sure you do the MAF one as well) some of the connectors are hard to get to and undo but patience and care will reward you. it's critical to do regular PM on these cars... high performance = high maintenance (a car is like a woman.. lol) yes a 20 year old one !!! so check/replace oil, air & fuel filters & oil on a regular basis.

do you mean as fiction... aka the da vinci code ?? is this what you are taking about? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Protocols_of_the_Elders_of_Zion if so, how can you keep an open mind about fiction? if it's not true, its not true! however what is true is the racism issues and suffering its party responsible for.

lol... very similar to the German one.. :)

didn't mask sense to me either... is he referring to NOS, Hydrogen/Oxygen or Water injection ?

that sucks... surely you have before pics ( I know hard to prove if you don't have a time ref with them) . I would appeal anyway... you never know you might win. best of luck

LOL.. you just confused me.... :D

don't forget that there are another 4 on the underside of the clocks that also illuminate them...

Ah, yes, so no lager injectors... that's good because you can test with a standard ecu. if you are going to test the ecu (ie. change with another one) make sure you disconnect the battery and also don't over-tighten the connector when putting it back on. there is a guide somewhere for accessing the ECU.

& cas...

lol.. I see.. well you've done well so far for someone without experience... :) the timing is way to check but you'll need a timing light and it makes it easier id you have an extension for the coil pack for #1 cyl. (i.e. to connect the timing light to, but not essential) you will also need the timing light if you're taking the CAS off, however you could mark the positions with a fine tipped permanent marker. boost / vac test, you need a plug for the MAS inlet, ideally with tyre valve, so you can pressurise it form there. (easy to make). what is the spec of your mods?

Hi Ross, the issue (symptoms) sounds like a regular one, your particular problem/solution may be different however. i would check the map on the eprom, maybe even replace with a more standard one.... see if it fixes it. have you checked the timing with a light and taken the cas of and given the area where it goes a good clean? did you say you did a boost/vac test?