Medallion Man

I kind of agree, but if its high 20s outside I want to take my roof off... :)

I would be more likely to think it was one of the ball joints but if you have checked them all then I guess it could be a issue inside the system. The HICAS eliminator bars that screw directly into the existing arms are only about £70, well worth doing and getting rid of it. http://www.zcentre.co.uk/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.pbv.tpl&product_id=236&Itemid=7 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NISSAN-300ZX-Z32-TWIN-TURBO-REAR-HICAS-STEERING-RACK-REMOVAL-LOCK-OUT-BAR-BRACE-/350794777691?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item51acff845b you will also need the parts to eliminate the lines. http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_plugins/content/content.php?content.244

LOL.. no brainier.. turn engine off... been stuck in plenty of jams and never had an overheating issue.

I did say this...

70 years as a cigarette replacement? with the same chemicals... like I said use at your own risk.. (although I agree it can't be any worse than cigs)

Hey, although I agree with most of what you said, the comments are from the manufactures and not health organisations or studies (since its commonly agreed that they haven't been in use long enough to have a valid study). Fact: putting drugs into you body isn't good (if you don't need them). so the only thing I would say is that this is a less toxic alternative to cigarettes. :) the internet has heaps on info on them... but never believe totally some that is trying to sell you something. (I need not list the number of cases though history that apply).

It's a little more complicated than that.... but I agree with Pete & Z32bolt for normal driving particularly in a warm climate.. in my case for example, most of my driving is motorway... even the fan really isn't doing much most of the time. yes i do have an ally rad and no I don't have a shroud. I have thought about it and if my driving situation changed I would most probably put one on.

welcome... are you jacking someone else's welcome thread.. :)

agreed.. behind the drivers side back seat...

just flash your front fogs instead (if you have them) not to mention that unless you do the earth mod and resister mod for the lights you will be flashing the low beam at the same time anyway...

why don't you fit it to your high beams?

hey, does anyone have a way on getting it out of the bearing and making sure it won't get damaged? the reason is that my mechanic had to take the rear hub off to put on the new bycas (HICAS eliminator) system but because the shaft was stuck in the bearing has now said that the bearing needs to be done and he can't guarantee he won't be able to get it out without damaging the shaft. it's rusted in (from what he said)... :(

try and get hold of a spare from someone... don't buy the ones from china that are new... I've tried them and they don't work. so a good second hand one should do..

a bit high for a manual... did you do the neutral switch with the conversion?

If you can't get hold of one, I can send you my spare to test with...

Oh poo.... are your TBs calibrated right?

I would try replacing the battery in the fob.. maybe also check all the contacts, i.e. doors, bonnet, hatch... that's all I can think of.. :(

I also ripped this from the erratic idle thread... MAS: Mass Airflow Sensor (pic 6) tells the ECU how much air is enteringthe engine which in turn gives the information about how much fuel needsto be supplied. Check the MAS by looking through it to see if the hot-wire is damaged or clogged by dirt. You can gently clean the hot-wire by spraying it with a contact cleaner that doesn't leave a protective film. I cleaned minewith brake cleaner since it evaporates completely but it could be a littleharsh for the vulnerable hot wire.. Never remove the mash screen! It serves both as a protection and hasits effect on the airflow. You can check the MAS voltage at the ECU (see ECUcontact diagram) with a volt meter. It should read ~0.8V with ignition on (some people get 0.08V on theTechtom) and ~1.5V at idle, unless you've got a vacuum leak somewhere...

good thinking... http://stadzport.com/FSM/EFEC_Engine_Fuel_Emissions_Control.pdf will help diagnose the MAF page 113 & 174

you said previously that there was a vac leak (or a hissing) have you done a vac test yet? I wouldn't go making assumptions until you're ruled out all the problems. find the vac leak if there is one and try again... if you buy a MAF now you may be spending money you didn't need to.

I haven't had the issue with my car but I did with my old Supra and it was a number of things... wiper seal, spoiler seals, window seal, and boot seal. it might pay to get some coloured water and pour it over different sections to see if they are leaking..

same. heaps of info on this already... the NGK's iridium or platinum come pre gapped... keep your grubby little gaping finger off them.. LOL...

yeah... maybe someone can confirm... :)

don't Zcentre do them............ :wink:

LOL... just a quick search on 'spark plugs' gives heaps of info an what is best for what depending on your cars mods, in fact it was discussed twice last week...