Medallion Man

hey Rodrigo... best to start a new post in the "Help and advice" section for questions like this... cheers.

lol... did he just say have a tos in a boat? yeah like Z32bolt says (i think) a boost leak check is good... and the FSM as well as tech posts show how to check and adjust the TPS. good PM can often stop this kind of issue... do a full check on all connectors for corrosion and correct clips. also have a look at the 6P's post.. do you have any codes (other than 55) good luck

Ah.... well if the carpet does get wet it takes rather a long time to dry... but you might have to take the carpet up to check.. also if the matrix is disconnected it still doesn't mean all the coolant is out and a bit more could have leaked out depending on how bad the leak is. taking the carpet up isn't fun, it's joined under the console and dash and the foot rest also holds it down.. easiest side is the passengers, worth a look to see if its wet there...

LOL.. how could I not agree with that... but you may have started another colour war... :)

Yeah I would say if you haven't taken it out in the rain it won't be the tagar drains and so can only be a couple of things.. what side is it? there is a drain plug on the passengers side for the air con condenser and it could be blocked, however since you don't drive it much I would say it was unlikely. so the only possible cause left over is the heater matrix, it could be the hoses to it or worst case the matrix itself. the link Gary posted has links to matrix suppliers as far as the hose goes I think Anthony (SFS) for silicone ones in the traders section does them or Mike (MJP) same section for oem ones.

I thought you could import them from the file... "File", "Import", "Messages" and follow the wizard.... (it might work)...

good call... I know that's mentioned frequently on the US and Oz forums but can't recall it being mentioned here... good preventative maintenance is a cure for many issues. :)

I had a spare one and took it to a local sand/grit blasting company ...i was about £20 and came up like new.. mind you it took a lot of cleaning with a hoses after wards getting the left over grit out but (but well worth it).

try this it might offer some help.. page 36 onward.. http://stadzport.com/FSM/ST_Steering.pdf

page 33 & 36 plug... middle green/yellow - indicator .......... side green/red - clearance http://stadzport.com/FSM/EL_Electrical.pdf this is the US book and I can't guarantee the colours will be right but it should give you an idea of what to connect. the flashing isn't because you've used the wrong wires its because the current draw is wrong (it's what phutumsch said)... have you used LEDs? if so unless you use enough of them to equal the wattage of the filament bulbs the indicators will still flash fast. SO just change the indicator unit.

The FSM has wiring diagrams, you should be able to tell what wires to use from there... if you want to leave them unplugged you could always swap your indicator module for a low wattage one (i.e. led one) that would stop the fast flash. this one should do the job.. http://www.wardenjp.com/stores/accessory.html

make sure he has this: http://stadzport.com/FSM/EM_Engine_Mechanical.pdf and pays particular attention from page 12 onwards (15 + 16 a must)... also jeff has a number of posts on here about timing and the right way to do it. if the guy isn't familiar with Zeds he will need has much help as he can get (or you will be the looser).. :)

the Zeds have projector lenses so the beam pattern isn't a problem. as far as self levellers and washers the test instructions are that "if" they are fitted they most work correctly. so since neither UK not JDM Zeds have self levelling systems you are good to go. there are previous posts on this subject with extracts & links to the DVLA / MOT test information. I would advise to ensure that the manual adjustment system is OK since the plastic cog often split and need replacing.

Vodkashots posted this: unfortunately the link doesn't work any more and I can't remover what they're called... Jeff also has a set and they work really well.. (for the male side pin anyway).. maybe one of them can post a link or remember the name.

that's fair enough... this is the full spec conversion... http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?117007-HID-light-mod they are downloadable word docs.. here is a link to an online one.. quick fix one. http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_plugins/content/content.php?content.348 however this mod only works for when the lows are no... if you have no lights on it will flash both highs and lows... so you need to do the full mod on the first link to fix that.

yes, the link is in the FAQ section... you really don't want me to find it for you, do you?

it depends on if you have the neutral switch connected and I'm not sure if the engine also has relevance, I know the auto turbos are different but not sure about the cams.

??? :) SFS , see Anthony in traders section.. they also have a website..

this is a good price for the lot if anyone is close enough to collect... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300ZX-Front-and-Rear-Lights-/231035499486?pt=UK_Car_Exterior_Accessories&hash=item35cac9f3de

LOL.. not there any more.. :(

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/health-22870301

Both Silverline and Noz have those type of results from stock internals... but you are pushing it.. and you'll need new induction as well..... the turbos alone are going to take you over £1k...

FYI... from page 41 on.. http://stadzport.com/FSM/EL_Electrical.pdf pics and all.. :)

LOL... so I guess the answer is yes... :) less stuff to go wrong and weight reduction...

yeah... I already had one of the Zcentre style ones but fitted a Conceptua tuning one (£200) (like this - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/R33-GTS-T-Skyline-Conceptua-BYCAS-HICAS-Removal-Kit-/150980508591?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item232723bbaf) but only because one of the ball joints had gone.... for ease of figment and price I'd go for the Zcentre one.