DTA (UK)

It's 8mm and if you're looking for 8mm braided hose then let me know as I've got this in stock. Regards, Dan PS - old fuel lines tend to expand with age, hence larger internal diameter. Shouldn affect fuel pressure too much though.

I most certainly would happily do so! ;) Am currently bringing in three pair of turbos for customers (incl. one pair of GT525's). Regards, Dan

Hi Lisa, Told you that you'd be happy with the RPS jobbie! ;) Glad to hear all is ok. Regards, Dan

LOL - yes, if I were to follow up on all the Viagra, breast enlargement and penis enlargement emails I would be sitting here unable to type due to a permanent 10-foot erection and having far to much fun playing with my t*ts! :x: It's all been sorted now - thanks for your help mate! Dan

:rofl::rofl::rofl: Very good Darrell!

Thanks Dave! I found it! It's 2.5GB in size :shock: Regards, Dan

Leigh - rrp in the UK is around £260 mark for front and rear (each that is). If your connection in Japan can get them direct from the factory then there are savings to be had although Okuyama is notorious for having extremely long waiting periods if they haven't got stock. I once had to wait 9 months for a set of braces!!!!

Hi, This is one for the PC gurus on here ... I need to locate where Outlook 2002 stores all the e-mails in the inbox and sent items (ie, normal inbox not personal folders)? Any ideas because I've looked in all the usual places and can't find anything. I've got about 25,000 e-mails (between the inbox and sent items) and I would have thought that to be a rathr sizeable file size! Allas, can't find anything. Was hoping to periodically copy those files to my external HDD for backup purposes. I've tried going down the route of the official MS backup tool for Outlook but installation fails because of a "non-validated" copy of XP on this system ;) if you catch my drift ... Any hits greatly appreciated! Regards, Dan

Nick, They process dozens and dozens of orders every day both from within the US and worldwide. If it is a large order (as yours seems to be) you should allow them some time to get everything together, packaged up, invoiced and shipped. Their tracking notice will be with you within 24 hours of the consignment havening LEFT their warehouse, not within 24 hours of you placing the order. I am sure you order is in good hands and will be with you shortly. If there are any problems they are definitely going to get in touch with you. Dan

The only difference will be the bore (ie diameter of the pipes). NA = 2" (50mm) TT = 2.5" (62.5mm) Shouldn't be a problem though. Dan

I understand your gripe - it is true, we pay over the odds here in the UK - but the reasons behind it are more complicated than so far discussed. It costs car manufacturers different amounts of money to produce the same car for different markets (hence you get JDM, Euro, US, Canadian, Gulf, OZ-spec cars). The R&D costs will be different, component manufacturing costs will be different, test and type approval costs are different, dealer costs will be different, advertising costs will be different, so on and so on. Furthermore, Chris (aka deve8uk) stated that the cost of the car is relative to your income. Using very rough estimates found on various government sites on the internet, Median income in the US (2007) = £23,000( = $44k at today's exchange rate) Median income in the UK (2007) = £31,000 Therefore, if you look at the cost of the car in both countries (US = approx. £40k / UK = approx. £60k) That means that the GT-R costs 1.73x the median US income and in the UK it costs 1.93x the median income. That is not really that much more in real terms. * I used Median income as this figure is not influenced directly by ultra-high earners and extremely-low earners - it is better to look at this than average income which can be distorted quite easily* So in "real" terms it hurts just as much to buy the car in the US as it does to buy it over here PROVIDED you earn your income in the local currency. Disclaimer - I am not an economist, mathematician or clairvoyant - I therefore take no responsibility for the accuracy of the figures discussed above. ;) Cheers! Dan

As Nick pointed out - one is specific to Porsche and TVR, the other was for "general" release. As far as I'm aware, SO2's were discontinued about three years ago and any tyres you're likely to find at shops now will be rather old stock ... I believe SO3's are the norm now, otherwise opt for Toyo Proxes T1-R's for tyre with comparable qualities. HTH Dan

Best advise I can give you is: make sure you have a contingency fund available (to the tune of £1k~£1.5k). That is, on top of the purchase price and insurance cost. These cars have a habit of throwing costly wobblies ... Other than that, once you have found the car you like have it serviced straight away (60K service, incl. timing belt and fluid/filter service). There are likely to be a number of additional parts that need changing (ie, oxygen sensors, etc). Get the car hooked up to a ConZult (preferably before you buy it) to run a full engine diagnostic. If possible, and the vendor allows you to do so, have a compression test and leak-down test done - this will indicate the general condition of the engine's internal state. At your budget I should expect you to find an early (ie 90-93) example that requires some work (be it engine and/or body). There are a few for sale on here at the moment so don't forget to look in the Cars for Sale section. HTH Dan

Get some decent components (for in the front) and a subwoofer (boot). You don't need speakers in the back as the "sound stage" is at the front. I've been in a few cars with competition style ICE setups and NONE of them had any speakers to the rear of the driver seat. Aparently it ruins the sound "balance" ... I don't have a clue what I'm talking about but this is what I was told was the reasoning behind it.:confused:

Chronia pola Athena! ;) x Dan

Have a look at http://www.smithys-place.co.uk/hid.php - I have listed a number of ballasts there. Is you kit originally made in China or Korea (makes a difference to the type of connectors used)? Give me a call on 0845 4744-382 to discuss further. Regards, Dan

It's funny (or not really ;)) the different kinds of problems a poor or broken earth contact can cause ...This and corroded connectors are by far the most common causes of electrical problems. By the way, the "Xenon power box" you refer to is called a "Ballast". Glad you got it sorted. Regards, Dan

Let me be the first to congratulate you Leigh! Bloody brilliant news! I know how hard you and the group have worked on it - I really hope the album does well. I shall look forward to listening to it when it's done! All the best chap! Dan PS - how's married life treating you so far?! ;)

When you pull out the old pads chances are that the shims come out with the pads. Separate them from the back of the pads, clean them thoroughly and use some copper grease before putting them on the back of the new pads. Slide pads into position and replace retainers - job done! I have reused my shims every time I changed the pads (and I've had the car over 6 years now). Sorry, haven't got a BMC cap for you ... HTH Dan

Thanks Murt! Might have to take you up on your kind offer! Regards, Dan

It is SnowyGT who works for Jag (in parts as well I believe ...) Zx-eyes: I've received your PM and replied. Speak to you soon mate. Dan

Yes, I just thought of that as well I hit "submit"! LOL. I think I've got 2 SATA slots but will need to confirm this in the morning when I open up the case. Good point though! Thanks! Dan

Thank you chaps! Whilst having my dinner I have been looking through the various websites and found that a decent DVD-RW can be had from £9:shock: to about £30. For the sake of the exercise I will disconnect the drive and see what happens but wil definitely be buying a new drive at the weekend. Final question - a lot of the new drives seem to have SATA connections. At the moment my drive is not connected via SATA but the MoBo is SATA enabled (my two HDD's are connected via SATA). I take it that I just purchase the data and power lead and off I go? Regards, Dan

Hi, I seem to be having no end of problems at the moment (thankfully not all PC-related ...) This particular problem has been happening off-and-on for a couple of months now but has recently got more frequent. Symptoms: Power up the PC - DVD-writer light flashes three/four times and then remains permanently on - this in turn SEVERELY slows down the booting up process (approx. 3~4 minutes of staring at the Windows screen) - the DVD-writer drive assignment (ie. drive E on the system) is non-functional (ie - it does not appear in the list) It has no other impact on the running of the system other than that I can't access the drive. In the past, a quick reboot or hard reset would snap it out of this behaviour and all would be well (including quick/normal boot time and drive letter assignment). I've looked at the internal connections and both the power and data cables are firmly in place. Before I go down the route of buying a new drive and cables does anyone have any idea as to what is causing the above symptoms? Many thanks for your feedback. Regards, Dan