DTA (UK)

This is possibly a long shot but does anyone have either a JDM or Underdrive crank pulley lying around that they could measure up for me? I am after the diameter of the largest section of the pulley. A close estimate is fine also. I just need to ascertain whether the pulley I've got sitting on the shelf is a U/D or stock sized (lightened) pulley. Many thanks! Dan

These door fillers are STILLEN items. If you have no luck with the ones MarkZX has on offer let me know as I can get you a set. Not too dear either although I will need to get a price update given the recent fluctuation in dollar:pound exchange rate. Regards, Dan

Best of luck Steve (and Andy) - glad to hear the project is finally under way! :) Your last bits of carbon are currently making their way over from across the pond and I'll send them directly to Andy. All the best chap! Dan

A very common problem. Open the bonnet and on the front of the engine you'll see two see two sender units - one black and one yellow. The black one is the sender unit that feeds info to the dash water temp gauge. You'll probably find that it is loose. Push it back on and/or secure it using a tie-wrap and it will solve the problem. Basically, as you speed up the force of the air being pushed onto the engine by the big viscous fan pushes the black connector off the contact and the dash gauge will drop to zero. Once you slow down contact is re-established and the gauge will show the actual temperature. Incidentally, the yellow connector next to it feeds water temp info to the ECU. The ambient temperature sensor is mounted just behind the bumper by the splash guard that protects the air filters from water ingress. It may have short circuited or the wire may have broken. Best to trace it from the sensor back to the dash. You are looking for a black rectangular box with a screw fitted on one side. Hope this helped. Regards, Dan

The report doesn't actually state whether GReddy (USA) is affected by this declaration of bankruptcy. The two companies (GReddy & Trust) are actually run as separate businesses so it doesn't neccesarily mean that all the products are disappearing. It will be quite likely that Trust is going to reorganize under new management - they did that about two years ago as well and I can remember when APEXi went through this. They too reorganised and have paired down JDM production. However, the US business is still going strong. Just my 2.5p worth ;) Dan

Alan, The camber bolts roughly do the same job as adjustable upper & lower arms. If you are serious about keeping your ZX for the forseable future and wish the have the best possible suspension setup then I can only really recommend you go for the full Powertrix setup, ie: Adjustable tension rods Adjustable front camber arms Adjustable rear camber arms Adjustable rear traction rods You can also go for the adjustable front lower arms from SPL-Parts but that is overkill for most applications bar those that use the car on track exclusively. Once you've got those bits installed as well as sorted your other suspension components (ie, struts/springs/coilovers/etc) then get the alignment/tracking sorted professionally. If you really want to go the whole hog then get them to perform a "4-corner" weighting which will allow them to add weights to the car to bring the balance back as close to the original front/rear setup as possible. Lots to think about and no doubt lots of money to save up! If you need any advise, you know where to find me. Regards, Dan

There is no clear cut way of defining how to adjust the sway bars. The Stillen kit comes with several suggestion depending on which way you want to go but in practice it depends a lot on the total suspension setup (struts/springs/adjustable arms/bushes/sway bars, etc). I've got a spare Stillen ARB kit coming into the UK next week. I advertised it in the "trader items for sale" section. The price listed includes all the import duty/vat, etc. Let me know if that's of any interest to you. Regards, Dan

How much bhp you'll gain is completely dependent on a lot of factors. Ie, supporting modifications, state of tune of the engine, petrol used, etc, etc, etc. What is more important is the increase in driveablity due to a higher level of torque available earlier on in the rev range. We've had a few competition ZX's use our chips (both NA and TT's) and they recorded some very impressive 1/4 mile times and accelleration figures. To date we've sold quite a lot of our chips and everyone has been very impressed and pleased with the result. I can't really say whether our chips give you 30 or 60bhp more - it really does depend on the car. My suggestion for you would be to go for the A'PEXi induction kit, DTA performance chip and a boost controller. See how you go with that and then start looking into further modifications. Regards, Dan

That's not a bad price for new trim. My Kahn 19-inch trims (identical to the Antera trim) costs around £120 each! I polished them myself and if you look quickly (;)) you can't really notice the damage! LOL. I also had to take the wheels to my local Porsche Centre (who are authorised Kahn dealers) to split the 2-piece rims - couldn't do that for love nor money on my own. They did a great job and even touched up some of the other parts of the rims as well!

I can provide you with: Intake = A'PEXi induction kit: £65.00 Chip = DTA Performance Chip: £65.00 Exhaust = Mongoose cat-back system: £550.00 Decat Pipes: £225.00 Boost Jets are just MIG welding tips (1.0 to 1.2mm apertures) and can easily be fitted by yourself. However, given that they can cause boost spikes under certain conditions I would HIGHLY recommend you get an electronic boost controller like an A'PEXi AVCR or Blitz SBC-ID or GReddy Profec-B. If you need any further info please feel free to contact me (07044 016586). Regards, Dan

Coolq - I've got a HID kit in stock, ready to ship. Installation is very easy in both a UK and JDM car (fitting instruction supplied). The kit is a 6000K kit which means the light is crisp white with a slight hint of blue around the edges. IMHO this kit is the best value for money and you won't be disappointed. HID002 - H3/35W/6000K HID Conversion Kit: £91.00 DEL002 - Royal Mail Special Delivery: £8.00 TOTAL = £99.00 I also stock colour coordinated side lights (the ones that go into the small square lights next to the front number plate). £12/pair and they look fantastic with the HID kit. I can take payment via credit/debit card, cheque/bank transfer or paypal. If paying via paypal please add 3% to the total to cover their fees. Our paypal ID = paypal@dta-motorsport.co.uk For payment via credit/debit card, please give me a call on 07044 016586 with payment details. (please note that I am not in a position to answer the phone during some parts of the day - am in hospital most of the time. Please leave me a message and I'll get back to you asap). Regards, Dan

If anyone wants pricing please take a look at http://www.smithys-place.co.uk/brakes.php - all info is listed there - or get in touch with me. As Smithy says, I can wholeheartedly recommend the 4000-series DBA discs for the front. Regards, Dan

Consider it done! ;) Anthony - I need to speak with you ;) Regards, Dan

Fair enough Anthony - I know what you do for a living and will accept that your knowledge on this matter far exceeds mine. However, my findings were based on "SFS" branded tubing which after 3 months use showed significant corrosion on both the inside and outside of the hoses. I then switched to a fluoro lined hose from a different brand and that has been fine for over a year. I'm not sure what happened there but I can't argue about what I've personally witnessed.

The chrome inserts are replaceable - contact Antera.

That's what I thought as well but having run a pair of silicone hoses on my own car I can confidently state that the corrosion and heat damage to both the interior and the exterior of the hoses was significant enough for me to conclude that the silicone hoses weren't worth the money. They were good quality hoses but not 5-ply/fluoro lined hoses though. For the money it makes more sense just to buy the OEM hoses.

Stu, I have looked into providing these particular parts in silicone and have come to the conclusion that you are better off with the stock parts. Main reason being the high temperatures endured by the hoses as well as the properties of the coolant itself. You would need hoses that are at least 5-ply thick plus a fluoro liner to protect against temperature damage. I can get these but you'd be looking at a price of around £12~£15 per hose which IMHO is completely overkill and not good value for money. HTH Dan

Mark, I've got a couple in stock. £30 plus £2.85 delivery (next day). Regards, Dan

No worries Dave - I do a lot of business with AutobulbsDirect (I supply them a number of items)! Good luck with the LED's - I've seen a number of conversions from normal to LED and in my opinion it didn't look as diffused as I'd hoped (LED's tend to project rings) but technology does move on so your bulbs may be a lot better. All the best, Dan

My neighbour went to that and just told me there was a convoy of no less than 1300+ Subarus decending on Pro-Drive at Banbury! Must have been some sight!

Dave, I sell ALL the bulbs for the various 300ZX models. Dip-beam: H3 55W (UK-spec) / H3C 55W (Jap-spec) Main-beam: H1 55W Fog-light: H3 55W (but requires modification from spade to bullet connector - easy DIY operation ;)) Easiest thing to do is to look at http://www.smithys-place.co.uk/lighting.php and tell me which ones you require. Most, if not all bulbs, are in stock ready for shipping. HTH Dan

Hiya, Prices are in the second post from the top. I'll have prices for the OEM flexi lines tomorrow afternoon. The chap I use at Nissan is on holiday this week but back tomorrow. The other parts staff can only really handle enquiries regarding Micra's and Notes so not much use there. Regards, Dan

Guys! Thank you very much for all the suggestions. I've had a call from UNO this morning who talked me through a number of options. It's not quite working yet but I've got a much better idea of what I'm looking for now. I shall continue to do battle with it later on today and if that fails I'll most likely be in contact with one of you for additional help. Stevie007 - I've still got your mobile number. Thanks again! Dan

Hi guys, I recently purchased one of Mario's laptops and am now in the process of configuring various bits and pieces. The laptop is WiFi-G enabled and I have a WiFi router/access point at home but can I get the two to talk to each other ... heck no! :headvswal I know that this is probably a case of getting a pro in to sort this out but I thought I'd launch the question here first. The router/access point is a Linksys WAGS54GS and the laptop has a Broadcom wireless card in it (internal). I've accessed the linksys internal setup pages and it was configured using WAP2-MIXED security with a 64-character network key. Network Authentication is WPAPSK and Data Encryption is TKIP. I've been through the various WiFi network setup screens on the laptop but despite it "seeing" the Linksys access point it doesn't want to connect. It comes up with a message saying something to the effect of "network connected but has limited or no connectivity". This is despite the two units sitting next to each other on the desk and clearly showing a strong 54Mbps signal. Can anyone see anything obvious that I'm doing wrong or can you offer some advise to get me on my way? Failing that, anyone know someone who can set this up for me at home (Midlands, just south of Birmingham)? Many thanks for your feedback (as usual! :)) Dan

Rob, As far as I know, the KSport 330mm discs are compatible with the stock handbrake mechanism. I can double check for you if that would be of any use. Regards, Dan