DTA (UK)

Lee, Sorry I missed your call earlier. I'll check on stock and let you know tomorrow. Regards, Dan

Around £40 for the 3-piece Energy Suspension tension rod bushes.

Stephen, I e-mailed you the exact dimension of the KSport kits some time ago but for the sake of clarity, here the are again: KSport 330mm w/6 or 8-pot calipers: requires 374mm diameter clearance KSport 356mm w/6 or 8-pot calipers: requires 400mm diameter clearance This means that from the centre line of the alloy you'll need 187mm either side for a 330mm kit. Basically, take the diameter of the disc and add about 20mm to account for he caliper. My supplier currently has stock of KSport brakes to suit the 300ZX so give me a shout if I can be of assistance. Regards, Dan

KYB-AGX & Eibachs are a very popular choice. It provides a drop of around 25~30mm and uprates the spring rates by about 25%. This makes for a compliant ride (ie, not anywhere near bone-shatteringly-hard like Tein coilovers) with progressive spring properties for fast/spirited driving. We have sold quite a number of these sets over the past year with no complaints whatsoever. Not currently in stock but easily obtainable. KYB-AGX: £330.00 EIBACH's: £190.00 Another option would be to consider using KYB's with AVO springs. Slightly less progressive than the Eibachs but excellent performance over all. I've currently got a set of AVO springs up for sale at £100 (normal rrp = £125) I can be contacted on 0845 4744-382 during office hours. Regards, Dan

To add to my previous post, always change bulbs in PAIRS. The is quite a noticable difference between two different branded 6000K bulbs. Point in case, I've just changed a 6000K H7 HID bulb on a 58-reg BMW. Changed one bulb and it burned slightly different colour to the other side. Changed them both over and both burn the same. I don't know why this difference exists but it is definitely noticable. HTH Dan

It could be a bulb, it could be a ballast. Easiest way to check is to move the working bulb over to the side that is currently not working. If the bulb lights up then you need to change the original bulb. If it doesn't light up then it's the ballast that requires replacing. There is a WIDE variance in the quality of the kits you can buy these days. The vast majority of ebay kits is of utter rubbish quality which is why we [DTA] set out to put together our own kits based on the best possible quality components we could find. So far we've had very few issues with any of the kits we've sold. If you need new bulbs or ballasts let me know as I've got a few in stock. Regards, Dan

Steve, Think twice about taking the car away. I've just had this issue with an MOT on my Jeep. Failed on a cracked wheelnut (yes, really ...) Took it away to get another one from a scrap yard, took the car back the next day and had to pay full whack for the retest. Only then was I told that had I left the car on their premises I would have had 10 days to get the problem sorted and a free retest. Barstewards! I would check with the garage what their policy is and get it in writing. In fact, IIRC it was printed on the reverse of the failure notice (the red copy). Other than the above, I'm glad it wasn't anything major! Regards, Dan

And this is exactly why joe public shouldn't be allowed around the car on a dyno. There is a wel recorded incident a few years back where a tyre disintegrated whilst on a power run. It shredded and took out three "spectators" who were standing beside it. One will never walk again and the other two were permanently scarred. I'm normally the first to criticise health and safety regulations as being absurd but in this instance some common sense would have gone a long way.

That's only part of it. You'll need to get it "folded" into the right shape as well as some parts of the engine sit lower than the rest. Then there are the mounting holes which I have found to be different on some cars. It is not a straight forward as you think - Smithy's response hits the nail on the head really. My Stainless steel supplier can do all this work but there would be too many variations to consider to make it financially viable.

There is a difference, namely the bore of the tube! TT=2.5" and NA=2". Not too detrimental to the performance of a TT engine but will cause gasses to flow less quickly out the back possibly resulting in a loss of HP. Whether that loss is actually noticable I'm not sure. HTH Dan PS - The exhaust must be from a similar car, ie - 2+2 or 2+0 as the 2+0 won't fit on a 2+2 and vice versa.

Indeed, we've had so many fitting issues with these inserts that we stopped selling them about 6 months ago. I put it down to poor craftmanship as it can't be that difficult to do it right.

That is just lovely! Incidentally, I saw one disappearing up a country lane here in Warwickshire just this afternoon! It may have been white or possibly grey - couldn't really tell from the distance between us. It wasn't a single track road but that car took up both sides - it is massively wide! First one I saw "in the flesh" as it were too! There was a carbon fibre Zonda in Oxford a few weeks back - on Abu Dhabi plates. Absolutely loved that as well!

Being self employed the economic downturn has hit me quite hard. Sales at DTA and Smithy's Place are down nearly 60% on last year's figures for the same period. On top of that margins are falling faster than house prices so what little turnover I do make there is even less profit in it. This is due to a combination of competition from other sources as well as increasing cost of parts and of course increasing shipping costs. Having looked at the company's finances I can only hope that things pick up soon otherwise it will become financial suicide to continue trading after December ...

I buy in bulk from A'PEXi so that keeps my cost down. Thinking back, these retailed at over £120 only a couple of years ago ...:eek:

Hi, I responded to your other thread in the FAQ (?) section. Price I got back from my supplier doesn't beat that advertised in the ebay link above (mine came out at £365 including import duty/vat). So I suppose you're best off buying from JPS on ebay. Regards, Dan

The more the merrier! :) Regards, Dan

Yeah, that's fine. I usually keep these in stock so let me know when you're ready ;) All the best, Dan

Don't bother with the first one. First of all it is nasty/cheap foam filter which (a) won't filter small enough particles, (b) deteriorates rapidly and will end up damaging your air flow meter on its way into your engine and © you don't need two filters going through one air flow meter (no benifit). The second one is fairly decent but if you want the best possible filter kit you're best off buying an A'PEXi induction kit. These have always been rated highest in terms of flow-through, filtration and quality. Being a "dry" filter there is no danger of the oils ending up on your air flow meter when it gets wet from rain, etc. I've got one on the shelf at the moment - cost is £62 + £8.85 Special Delivery (ie, next day). Let me know if you want it. Regards, Dan PS - the kit comes with fitting instructions and all the fixings/gasket

Hi Gustavo, Welcome to this "crazy" forum! ;) You could e-mail me (info@dta-motorsport.co.uk) a list of parts you require and I can try to get all the parts for when you get to London. Have a look at http://www.smithys-place.co.uk to see a small assortment of parts that we supply here in the UK and Europe. Regards, Dan

Hi Isaac, I too am not an expert on ICE but past research has given me some insight. Here's what I know that may be useful to you - I am sure the experts will be along shortly: - always run the power cables on the opposite side of the car from the speaker cables (ie, run your power cables along the passenger side of the car and the speaker cables along the driver side - this minimises interference) - always use a FARAD cap between the battery and the amps - you're probably best off using one amp for the front, an amp for the rear and a separate amp for the subs - this will give the speakers the best possible performance - make sure your amps, speakers and headunit provide the same "Ohm" output rating (most speakers/subs are either 2 or 4Ohm) - make sure your headunit can cope with this many amps - ie, it has the correct number of line-outs I'll see if I can dig up some more info and links tonight when I get home - I'll either PM it to you or e-mail it over. Again, don't take my info for gospel but it's a place to start. All the best, Dan

This could have a number of causes. First I need to know a few details: 1. Serial Number of the interface box 2. Version of the diagnostic software 3. Are you using it via the serial or USB port 4. If using the USB port are you using one of our own USB converters If you want to let me have those details via PM then that's fine. Alternatively, give me a call on 0845 4744-382 to discuss further. Regards, Dan

Yes, this is possible but it is a very tight squeeze. You'll need to fabricate new brackets as a 6x9 won't fit in the standard bracket. Also, be very aware that the passenger side speaker space is not nearly as deep as the driver size and you may end up having to bash the metal down (it's ok - it is only the wheelarch). For the amount of noise you're going to be getting from the rear speakers you may as well go for the standard 6x4 jobbies. The "sound stage" is up front so spend more money on those speakers. HTH Dan

Yep - easy and straight forward install. One word of advise - go and get the headlight alignment checked at an MOT station. With the majority of these HID kits the beam will be aimed too high due to the HID bulb being a lot longer. Should only cost about a fiver to get it checked (if anything). Regards, Dan PS - did you clean the inside of the projector lens and headlight glass? If you do then you'll find the difference even bigger when compared to stock system.

Hi Taff, Yes, these are available from Energy Suspension. I'll have a look to see if I can find a part number. Am hoping the Tein's are the same size as stock ... Regards, Dan

Gentlemen! Thank you VERY much indeed for the measurement information! It would appear that I've got one lightened stock crank pulley! All the best, Dan