DTA (UK)

Not got the link to hand Lee - it's on my other PC. However, I've spoken to a company that does a lot of high-end installs and was told that never have they had to connect an external GPS antenna via the AUX/VIDEO-IN RCA connector. This simply does not work as the signals are completely incompatible. So, it would appear that this is a case of false advertising and I've spoken to the seller who "is looking into it". Guess I'll wait a little while to hear back from them In the meantime, if anyone knows of a way to connect a GPS antenna to a car radio by means other than RCA or bluetooth then feel free to enlighten me! :) Regards, Dan

Hi, I know this is a long shot but have a read of this. I recently purchased a car stereo with a TFT touch screen. It comes with all the good bits (DVD, DVB-T, CD, etc) including, allegedly, full GPS compatibility. I hasten to add that I did not buy this stereo through ebay but through a reputable online reseller. My problem is, there is a separate MMCX connection for the DVB-T antenna but no connection at all for a GPS receiver. I've contacted the supplier who said that the unit does not have an inbuild GPS receiver so an external unit is required. Fair enough so far however, how do you connect an external GPS antenna if there isn't a dedicated antenna input? I've been googling a lot and through ebay it appears that most wired GPS receivers come with either a MCX or MMCX type connector. Having looked through the user manual (which is a very badly translated piece of worthless paper ...) the only available input would be the AUX-IN, which is a standard RCA type plug. My questions are: (1) does anyone know where I can get a GPS antenna with a RCA connector? (2) does anyone know if the AUX-IN is the appropriate connection to use? (I wouldn't have thought so as it is expecting either an audio or video signal and not a data stream) (3) if the AUX-IN is in fact the correct way to go, can I buy a GPS antenna featuring a MMCX connector, cut it off and connect the appropriate RCA plug? Sorry for all the questions. The supplier of the stereo is absolutely no use whatsoever ... :( Thanks for taking the time to read this. Regards, Dan

The yellow connector is the ECU's connection to the Idle control valve. The ECU controls the idle valve in certain situations - (1) if the base idle is set incorrectly and (2) when coming off the accellerator. As you've noticed, the car has a tendency to stall when you slow down quickly. That is because the ECU can't influence the idle. You need to reconnect the yellow connector because without it the ECU can't control the idle valve and hence the idle. When you disconnected the yellow connector the ECU lost control over the idle and it returned to the base idle setting. You may find that if you reset the ECU it will no longer raise the idle when reconnecting the yellow connector. There are quite a few reasons why your idle sits too high - one of them being a clogged up idle valve. This is basically a spring operated piston which frequently gets "coked" up. This is particularly the case if you've sprayed carb cleaner into your throttle bodies to clean them. All that crap is passed through the engine into the idle valve where it sits and accumilates. Over time this will cause the valve to coke up and not be able to return to the base idle setting. The best thing to do here is to strip the valve down and clean it. This can be done but you do need to be carefull with all the little bits inside the valve. The above is just one of many reasons. I think that if you do a search for "high idle" you'll find about 20 more reasons to investigate ... Good luck and if you need more assistance, you know where to find me ! :) Regards, Dan

Steve, Your hard pipe kits will be with Andy shortly. Measurements are exactly as per Smithy's post. Regards, Dan

There are two ways to go about delimiting a car: (1) Aftermarket chip in ECU, or (2) Speedo converter installed behind the clocks. In the interest of time you are probably best off buying the speedo converter and installing that. I've got those, £55 incl. postage and all I'd need to know is whether your car is a series 1 or series 2 (important as the installation instructions are different). However, I do have a number of chips available (both DTA and one original JWT). Let me know if any of the above is of interest. Regards, Dan

So-called "wrapping" a car is nothing new - has been done for quite a few years. There are quite a lot of exotic cars (ie Lambos, Ferraris, etc) that get "wrapped" before attending major events like The Gumball Rally, etc. Most recently I saw a matt-black Lambo LP640 over in Birmingham at a luncheon. When I spoke to the (middle eastern) owner he said he had it done two years ago and the original colour of the car is orange! The 3M stuff can stay on the car for upto 5 years without hurting the lacquer underneath although this does assume you don't end up with stone chips where water can get underneath the wrap. There is a video up on YT (I think) where they show how it's done. Takes about two days to complete a BMW M5 apparently ...

Correct, I should have been more specific. I was referring to Z33 discs used in conjunction with STOCK Z32 calipers. In this case you need caliper relocation brackets. If you have Z33 discs and Z33 calipers then the ONLY modification is to drill out the caliper attachment holes (I believe from 12mm to 14mm). NO BRACKET REQUIRED. Apologies for the confusion caused - I have amended my original post to be more specific. Regards, Dan

Paul, This is taken from the FAQ section (brakes & suspension): PCD 5 x 114.3 Offset +35...42 mm Centre bore 66 mm The off-set is a range because a lot of wheels have varying dish depth. You can therefore get away with a slightly different off-set than on stock wheels. With regard to handling characteristics - that will be due to the unsprung weight changing when you use different rims. For example, I've got a set of 19" Kahn RS-C 2-piece rims and they weigh a tonne compared to some other forged rims which are light as a feather. HTH Dan

No, you can do it with the bumper on the car. If you look at the edge of the gap along the bottome you'll see a black metal strip that holds the plastic undertray in place. You can use those screw mounting points. At the top there is a similar arrangement. Please excuse me if this isn't exactly as it is on the car. I did mine about5 years ago and it's still in place so haven't had the need to redo it recently.

Hmmm ... I thought it may not have been what I was thinking of ... LOL ;) I'm pretty sure I've seen some information regarding this on the Department of Transport website. IIRC foglights need to be a minimum of 35W (most bulbs are 55W) and mounted below a certain height. As for sidelights - I think that if you could find a way to reduce the light output on the dip beam then you can use that as side lights. (ie dim-dip). Also, there is no legal requirement to have foglights at the front, only at the rear. Sorry, the above probably isn't much help either. If I come across the info I'll post it later. Regards, Dan

If you mean to cover the big gaping hole below the front registration plate then it is no different on an NA than it is on a TT. Some people fibreglass the mesh into place. I used the existing screw holes to secure mine. "There are many roads that lead to Rome" LOL ;) HTH Dan

Correct. Rear diffusers work in conjunction with panels underneath the car. In its most basic terms, the underside of the car needs to be as smooth as possible with incorporated "channels" that feed the rear diffuser. It is all about aerodynamics. The purpose of the diffuser and underbody panels is to create a low pressure area underneath the car in the correct location. This causes a "suction" effect, thereby pushing the car harder onto the road. As stated above, diffusers will only work over a certain speed and even then their use will be rather limited on a road going car as you'll pretty much never need the benefits that a diffuser offers, even at (legal) motorway speeds. Furthermore, the aerodynamics of our cars is such that by the time the air reaches the rear of the car the airflow is so turbulent that there wouldn't be a benefit anyway. What is often far more effective is a propperly designed rear spoiler. That will produce more downforce at the rear of the car than a diffuser would at normal speeds.

Mario - thanks for the info - I've found the ballast resistors at my local electronics shop :) and will give them a go. Steve - thanks for the offer, I may take you up on it when you're back in the country. Darrell - LOL :) Unfortunately this is not a project for the ZX but rather for my Jeep Grand Cherokee. I have changed the dash illumination to LED's because the little bulbs kept blowing. Now the problem is that they (LED's) are too bright but won't dim on the switch. So was thinking of plumbing in a separate dimmer. Interesting info about your rear lights - do you know who built them? Regards, Dan

Not entirely sure what you're getting at here Mark but basically you don't have to have both in the same housing (if that makes sense). Lots of cars have their side lights in a different location to their fogs. As you probably know yourself, the JDM foglight contains two bulbs - one H3 for the fog light and one 501 bulb for the side light. You could, for example, buy one of those projector type fog lights which comes with an "angel eye" ring around the outside. Use the angel eye as side light and the projector as fog light. I know I've seen these advertised online somewhere but can't for the life of me remember where? Perhaps do a search on ebay and see what comes up. HTH Dan PS - apologies if the above bears no resemblence to the information you were hoping to receive ... ;)

The mounting hole position for R33 GTR brembos is the same as for stock Z32/S14 calipers. If you are upgrading to Z33 (350Z) calipers then the mounting holes on the hub need to be made larger to 14mm diameter (stock Z32 diameter is 12mm). Furthermore, as the Z33 discs use a different off-set you will need to have the caliper relocation brackets custom made (this only applies if you intend to use STOCK Z32/S14 calipers). HTH Dan

To be honest I had forgotten about that ... :x: Let me know when you're ready before you send it to me. Regards, Dan

Lee, As stated above, both the GTR (R33) and Z33 (350Z) discs are the same size (= 324mm). However, the off-sets are different. Minimum wheel size requirement is still 17-inch though. From that perspective it is easiest to use GTR discs as they bolt straight onto the Z32 hub without the need for modifications. The only thing you need to do is move the caliper out by means of a caliper relocation bracket. Should you wish to go down that route let me know as I supply both the GTR sized discs AND the caliper relocation brackets. Have a look on http://www.smithys-place.co.uk/brakes.php and look for the line items marked GTR-sized. I can highly recommend the DBA 4000-series discs. FYI - the caliper relocation brackets retail at £80 and include the required bolts and washers.

Thank you all for the responses ... Am now off to source a dimmer ;) Dan

Hi, Quick question for people "in the know": Are LED's dimable? Thank you! Answers on a postcard to ... ;) Regards, Dan

Seconded! ;)

I know - my supplier buys Skyline pads in by the hundreds hence the good price. No VAT chargeable because DTA/Smithy's is not VAT registered. Regards, Dan

Joel, I've just made the enquiry on your behalf and the following are the DS2500 prices for R33-GTR calipers: Front: £109.00 | Rear: £82.25 HTH Dan

Hi Joel, As Smithy said, the 3G discs are original Brembo casts. I've not had braided lines made up to fit a GTR caliper but I believe it has the same 10x1 connector as on the Z32 calipers so that should not be a problem. I won't be able to get this organised immediately as my brake line supplier has closed down for the month of August but can look into this first thing when they're back. Regards, Dan

Yep, as an official Carbing reseller I can confirm that "original" Carbing braces come with either a logo'd plate on the bar or laser etched logo PLUS some have the word "Carbing" stamped into the base plates. HTH Dan

That article is such a load of b****cks! But then I wouldn't expect anything less from that red-top rag. At least they got the model name right this time ... :rolleyes: If you go down to London, Paris and even Marbella during the summer months you'll find loads of Middle Eastern plated exotic cars driving around. These people ship their cars over for an extended holiday to escape the excruciating heat in their own countries. For example, my parents live in Dubai where it is currently between 45~50C every day with relative humidity levels approaching 90%. It really is unbearable and they, along with about 75% of all the expats that make up the population of Dubai, are currently on holiday here in Europe to escape the worst of the heat. If you read a similar article as reported on the BBC website and also the Telegraph you'll see that the reporters allegedly went as far as phoning up the Lamborghinit press office. They clearly stated that this particular car has not been serviced at any of the official Lambo service centres in this country. Surely if it was here for a service the car would have been in and out in a matter of days, not seen driving around the Knightsbridge area for the past two weeks. The owners are just here on holiday. End of story. PS - it is not that uncommon for supercar owners to ship their cars out of the country for services. When I lived in Marbella and owned a F355 I had it shipped back to Verdi in the UK for it's major service. Transporting it on the back of an enclosed flatbed, having it serviced and then transported back again was still cheaper (not to mention more reliable) than having it serviced at C. de Salamanca's in Marbella or Madrid.