DTA (UK)

Ok Si - have made the amendment in the order book and will ship out as soon as the NGK's are here. Can you PM me your delivery address please and also how you'd like to arrange payment and I'll get the ball rolling. Thanks! Dan

Thanks Derek! Nice to speak with you just now. I'll await Nathan's call before proceeding any further. All the best, Dan

Unfortunately Stuart (SMW1) is right when he says the range of the clamps are not suitable for Zed applications (like radiator and intake hoses). They just don't have enough of a range because aside from the external diameter of the silicone coupler you also need to consider that it will "squash" slightly when the band is tightened. I have had samples of both the Mikalor W2/W4 T-bolt clamps and various others from about 6 different UK-based companies and none of them fitted properly. I am currently on the trail of a EU-based company who claims to have the correct range. With a bit of luck I'll have a full sample set here before Christmas. If that works out then I should be able to offer all the T-Bolt clamps you could ever wish for in the New Year. Regards, Dan

That'll be because the Clio weighs a lot less than a Zed ... That being the case I'm not convinced using the Clio brakes would be a good idea. You need to source brakes that come off a similarly weighted car and go one or two steps bigger. IMHO the KSport 356mm 6-pot kit (with Ferodo DS2500 pads) represents best value for money at the moment. You'll need 19" wheels otherwise opt for the 330mm 6-pot kit.

Hi Simon, First of all, your NGK's are currently enroute for delivery at some point next week (depending on how long customs hold on to the consignment this time ... they seem quite back-logged at the moment :() Secondly, a single A'PEXi will be more than adequate for your goals. I would even go as far as to say that using a dual filter installation (but through 1 MAF) is a false economy because no matter how many filters you stick on the end of 1 MAF you can still only pass a finite volume of air through it at any one time. If you were aiming for say 500bhp plus then at that stage I would suggest you opt for a propper Doolz double intake system with two filters and two MAFs. You'll then require a stand alone engine management system as well. So, in conclusion - one A'PEXi cone filter is what you need. Let me know if you want to send you one (@ £62.50) together with your NGK's. Cheerio! Dan

Nathan, I received your online order through Smithy's Place but my e-mail response keeps being bounced back. I have tried to PM you but can't. Can you please give me a call on 0845 4744-382 so I can give you the total amount payable and get your order underway. Many thanks! Dan

Hi Steve, Not sure I follow ... A strut brace will improve handling of the car through corners. The brake brace won't improve your braking, just the pedal feel as it stops the firewall flexing and thereby reducing the "spongey" feeling of the pedal. I have got a Carbing front strut brace fitted AND a DTA brake brace bracket - no problem as they are fixed in different locations. So therefore you can have both! ;) HTH Dan

If you're keeping the original calipers I wouldn't go any larger than 324mm discs because you'll risk the contact patch becoming too small. Although you've got the benifit of centrifugal force (ie, the caliper mounted further away from the centre of rotation which will increase braking performance) you run the risk of locally overheating the disc which will cause cracks/warping. I've got a number of caliper relocation brackets in stock which are meant to go with 324mm discs. I can get you a set of DBA 324mm discs no problem. Take a look at http://www.smithys-place.co.uk/brakes.php for information on the various discs I can supply as well as pricing info on the KSport big brake kits. HTH Dan

Open the bonnet and look for the little black connector on top of the upper water pipe (it's next to the yellow connector). It will be loose and will require tightening. You can secure it with a tie-wrap if necessary or order a new one (I've got some coming into stock in a few days). This black connector feeds information to the dash mounted temp gauge and will be pushed back by the radiator fan as you accellerate and loosing contact. HTH Dan

Yes, you'll need adjustable upper arms and adjustable tension rods. Both are available from me (DTA) at a cost of £230 and £135 respectively. The rear adjustable upper arms are £160. Fitting can be done by a competent mechanic. All parts come with instructions so should be straight forward to fit. I wouldn't take it to the likes of Halfords or Quickfit as they can't even fit the correct bulb in an indicator (from experience - they tried to fit a 382 bulb into a 380 holder ... muppets!) After they suspension parts are fitted take it for a full 4-wheel laser alignment and have them set it up correctly. HTH Dan

I've always found Volvo seats to be superb! Especially the ones fitted to the first of the 850GLT series. I later drove a V70-R which also had excellent seats. Not too soft, excellent lumbar support (adjustable) and best of all ... heated! ;)

Hi! The 3G brakes are very good discs. Brembo cast and top quality. Usually available through us (ie, DTA & Smithy's Place) within a couple of days. Alternatively the DBA discs are highly recommended. However, what brake pads will you be using with these discs? The pad material and disc composition is a major factor in how well the system performs. I can recommend Porterfields and DBA 2500's (also available directly through us). Let me know if you require any further assistance. Regards, Dan

Much obliged Athene!

Gerwyn - can you please get in touch with me ASAP to make payment for the parts you ordered back in October - I really need you to make payment. If I don't hear from you in the next 48 hours (from the time this message is posted) I will be putting your parts up for sale to the members of this forum in order to recoup some of the money your order has cost me. Please get in touch. Regards, Dan PS - if anyone knows how to get in touch with Gerwyn please could you let him know he needs to contact me asap. I have a mobile number for him but it goes straight through to voice mail every time. Thank you!

That'll be correct as the gearbox oil is cooled in the end tanks of the main radiator. That will have a heating effect on the coolant and so if you add an additional A/T cooler the main rad temperature will drop. This also means that your gearbox oil is running cooler and therefore less prone to degredation and burning.

Thought I'd chime in here ... ;) As per Car.Mad's post - stiffer anti-roll bars and new strut braces will do more for making the car corner flatter than a new set of struts and springs. I've got a car that's on stock suspension but has Stillen anti-roll bars and Carbing front/rear strut braces. The difference in cornering is significant! Enough for me not to have to buy new shocks and springs. Here is a breakdown of prices you can expect for all sorts of suspension upgrades (available through our good selves ;)): Stage 1: KYB-AGX Adjustable Shocks: £420.00 Eibach Lowering Springs (-25mm & 25% stiffer): £190.00 AVO Lowering Springs (-30m & 25% stiffer): £125.00 DTA Sport Springs (stock height & 15% stiffer): £180.00 Stage 2: K-Sport Coilover Kit: £850.00 TEIN Mono-Flex Coilover Kit: £1,385.00 Stillen Adjustable Anti-roll Bar Kit (front/rear): £435.00 Carbing Strut Brace Kit (front/rear): £530.00 Powertrix Adjustable Camber Arms (front): £230.00 Powertrix Adjustabel Camber Arms (rear): £160.00 Powertrix Adjustable Tension Rods: £135.00 Additional Parts to think about upgrading at either of the above stages: Energy Suspension Polyurethane Bushings Kit: from £180.00 - depending on bushes required Energy Suspension Polyurethane Differential Carrier Bushings: £28.00 Energy Suspension Polyurethane Subframe Bushings: £105.00 SZ Solid Differential Collars (retain stock bushings): £65.00 These are just suggestions and setups can be tailor made to suit your specific needs. All prices listed are correct as at 05DEC08 and do NOT include P+P. If you require any further advise please feel free to contact me. Regards, Dan

In relation to the Hold/Power button in JDM cars: Hold: starts in 2nd gear, shifts up early and kickdown delayed. This is primarily for fuel/emission reduction purposes or when driving in slippery conditions. Power: for more "spirited" driving, shifts higher in the rpm range, kickdown more aggressive. Leaving the button in the middle is a happy compromise between the two shift profiles and suitable to most every day driving conditions. Disclaimer: the Hold position will not aid you when driving in extremely slippery conditions. It is not linked to the ABS or traction control system (which the 300 doesn't have unless an aftermarket RaceLogic system was fitted). It is primarily useful when driving off and minimising wheelspin. HTH Dan

Autoboxes are interchangeable. The UK boxes had an oil cooler hooked up as standard (JDM's were cooled through the radiator end tanks). The "power/hold" button in JDM cars is linked to the Autobox ECU, not the autobox itself. Therefore you can use a UK box in a JDM car and vice versa. HTH Dan PS - regardless of what car the box comes out of it is ALWAYS a good idea to add an aftermarket autobox oil cooler.

Normally, JDM cars have two bulbs in the foglight enclosure: H3 = Fog light 501 = Side light To me it sounds like your JDM fog light enclosures were changed for US-spec fog light enclosures. These only have one bulb (H3 I believe). The reason that yours has been soldered together is most likely due to the fact that H3 bulbs have a male spade connector and the car takes a male bullet connector. So a previous owner must have cut off the two connectors and soldered them together ... It is quite easy to make a short conversion lead. One end has female spade connector, other end male bullet connect. Job done. HTH Dan

Could well be a faulty relay. IIRC the headlights are switched by their earth connection so I would look in that direction first.

Symptom would suggest either (a) a faulty ballast, or (b) faulty electrics to the headlight wiring loom/connector The easiest thing to test is whether the ballast is faulty by swapping the ballasts around. If the other light now does the same then you know it's the ballast. If, on the other hand, the same side continues to have problems you may be looking at an electrical problem in the wiring loom. My money is on the ballast though ... If you require a replacement ballast (or bulb) and have no luck getting them from the place you bought the HID kit from then let me know as I stock these parts. Regards, Dan

Can be a number of symptoms but generally speaking you'll have one or more of the following: rough idle high idle hesitation stalling when coming to a stand-still Sometimes cars exhibit these problems and a ConZult check reveals that the TPS if functioning properly. The next port of call would then be to have a look at the throttle balance (or whatever it's called). Basically, take the intake pipes to the throttle bodies off and see whether the two butterfly valves open at the same time. I've seen cars where one butterfly valve was practically completely open before the other one started to move. Again, there are more symptoms but the ones listed above are the most common. HTH Dan

They do but it is quite random. It is usually one of the connectors that goes first and quite often cleaning the contacts sorts a lot of problems. The problem is that the TPS is attached to the side of the upper plenum which gets bloody hot. And yes, "caveat emptor" means buyer beware ... ;)

Not exactly a like-for-like comparison (FTO vs 300ZX). For starters, the 300 is a "GT cruiser" compared to the FTO and is a lot heavier. In NA guise the car is underpowered for the weight it needs to shift but it is still a damn good car. Auto or Manual, it doesn't really make a difference, the power to weight ratio is what counts. I think if you get into a well maintained and slightly tuned NA (ie, induction, exhaust, chip, suspension upgrade) you will find it is a different car all together. Still doesn't compare to the TT but in my opinion the instant reaction you get when you press the throttle in an NA is more addictive than straight line accelleration in a TT. Just my 2p worth. However, having said all the above, some cars just don't click with some people. I think it is an expectation versus reality thing.

Did that with my Samsung X820 phone after a stint in the washing machine ... :headvswal The screen looked a bit funny for a few days (has now healed itself) and the phone works without any problems! :)