DTA (UK)

Hi matey! How's it going? Yes I did do 740cc chips but the problem was that there is such a variety of supporting modifications that people made to their engines. It therefore became too much of an issue to get each chip precisely right for each individual car. It's much easier for a 555cc based car as the mods are fairly much similar at that level. Cheerio! Dan

Hi Leigh, That's the right choice buddy. Believe it or not, despite the UK being an EU "member" it is very selective about when it wants to be considered a member and when not. For example, there is relative freedom of movement for people and goods between continental EU and the UK but no such freedom exists for financial instruments (ie currency). The UK only takes up a select number of EU rules/regulations/laws as set forth by Brussels (usually the crap ones ;)) It is in fact true that the UK is closer to the US in both its economic and political model than to the rest of the EU. So, with that in mind it stands to reason that companies offer separate EU and UK warranties. Good luck with the studio setup - am looking forward to taking a peek when it's all done. By the way, when are we getting together for a meal/drink?!?! ;) Speak to you soon matey and best regards to Lucy! Dan

Just chiming in to offer my 2p worth: DTA-Motorsport can only offer off-the-shelf performance chips up to and including 555cc injectors. Anything above and beyond that level requires a dedicated setup which can only be done on a rolling road. As Eric (aka Lymon on here) is the only person within DTA who does this kind of mapping any customer looking for a custom mapping session will need to get the car over to The Netherlands. Cost depends on how long the mapping session takes (ie, rent of the rolling road and Eric's time, etc) but the minimum cost is currently set at 750 Euro (approx. £670 at today's exchange rate). Thanks.

I've PM'd you Bri. FWIW: the bulbs you're after are our 501/1W Ultra Bright LED bulbs @ £12.00 a pair. Plenty in stock and matches pretty much any 6000K HID kit. HTH Dan

Yes, IMO Carbing/Powertrix are the only options worth considering. Cheerio! Dan

Nope, that is actually based on a Carbing/Okuyama rear strut brace. Had one on my car - superb piece of kit but quite pricey! The Powertrix one will be slightly different - an improvement over the Carbing design.

This is like comparing apples and pears. Yes, they're both fruit but completely different. I've had the pleasure of driving a 3200GT for quite some miles through France about 4 or so years ago and it is a very competent Grand Tourer. It is comfortable, handles relatively well and has a fabulous orchestral sound to the exhaust. However, a sports car it ain't! Therefore, if you are ready fo a different driving experience then I can't fault the Maseratti. However, if you expect it to handle like a true sports car (such as your TVR) then you will be terribly disappointed. But, like "most" TVR's the early 3200GT's did suffer from reliability and electrical problems and are expensive to look after. Just my 2p worth.

Of course not! Remind me to charge double next time - with all that "service" and what not?!?!?!?! LOL ;)

Awwww! Thanks guys, you're making me blush! ;) I'm glad that in this day and age good customer service is appreciated! All the best, Dan

If you have GT2871R turbos then they can flow a maximum of 32psi and produce 700+ RWHP on RACE FUEL with proper tuning and supporting modifications. Looking at your setup and parts listed I would say you could safely run upto 24psi and produce anywhere from 480 to 550 RWHP. This is assuming you run the car on 98RON and have a decent performance chip that is not leaning out the A/F ratio prematurely. What would be more important is to find out what torque this setup is likely to produce and at what point in the rev range this torque is put down. You may find you'll need a RaceLogic traction control system to keep the rear wheels from spinning at 3000rpm in 4th gear!

Theoretically yes but in practice no. Even if you get your car MOT'd 28-days prior to the expiry date of the current valit certificate, the new certificate valitidy will be dated from the expiry date of the old certificate. For example: Expiry date current MOT certificate: 1-MARCH-09 Date MOT test: 4-FEB-09 Valid from date on NEW MOT certificate: 1-MARCH-09 So, still a 12 month certificate despite the fact that you got it 1 month before the expiry of the old certificate. Hope that makes sense. Dan

Thanks very much for the info Rich - much appreciated. Guess I can get it done well before I go then! :) Cheers! Dan

Hi, This is one for anyone who is or works with a MOT tester. I'm going away for two weeks and during this period the MOT on my Jeep is due. How far ahead of the due date can you arrange for a MOT to be done and will the test certificate be valid from the original due date or the date at which the test is conducted? Many thanks! Dan

Mrbusy & Darkside TT: Many thanks for that! It would seem that the one at Maplins will do exactly what I want it to do! Funny that - I walked into Maplins in Solihull last week and asked one of their sales people - didn't have a clue and couldn't find it in their catalogue! Cheers chaps! Dan

Hi all, I've got two security lights on the house which we switch on/off manually every day by means of a normal switch inside the house. I'd like to set this on a timer but can't do one of those PIR/Dust-till-Dawn jobbies as there is too much ambient light. I was wondering if anyone knows of a 240V 24hr timer which can be hardwired into the electrics. I don't want one of those timers that you stick into a socket - no good for this application. Once upon a long time ago I saw a timer that was the same shape/size as a light switch and could be flush mounted in the wall. Any idea where I might get one of these? The local B&Q folk are as clueless as ever ... Thanks for your suggestions! Dan

Yes, that's what they should currently be direct from Nissan as well.

Pete, If you are running adjustable upper arms (front) then I always recommend the adjustable tension rods as well. Reason for this is that once adjusted, the upper arms will exert a great deal of strain/stress on the stock tension rods which will then be liable to fail prematurely (either the bush splitting or worse, the whole arm cracking). It is therefore always advisable to install the adjustable tension rods alongside the adjustable upper arms. As for the price of tracking - it really depends on where you go and how much work needs to be done. A straight forward 4-wheel realignment (with no major adjustments required) can cost about £60. However, I've recently had the tracking adjusted on my wife's MX5 and had it set up exactly who I wanted it (ie, little to no understeer) and the car was in the air for over 2 hours. Cost me around £120 for the privilege but the car handles like it's on rails now! So, you really get what you pay for. I would suggest you find a place that has dealt with cars that use 4-wheel steering systems. HTH Dan

And further to FunkySi's post, may I suggest the Powertrix adjustable suspension range of products. Superior build quality and specifically designed for the 300ZX (as oposed to a lot of other parts available online which are adaptations of S14 or Skyline parts). Here are the current prices I can do these for: Adjustable upper arms (front): £230.00 Adjustable tension rods: £135.00 Adjustable upper arms (rear): £160.00 Shipping: £18.00. Let me know if you require any further advise/help. All the best, Dan

We can do you a custom chip based on your car's setup for around £65. If your ECU requires socketing and you want us to do it then that'll be an additional £36. Let me know if you require any further information. Regards,

Hi Steve, My condolences mate ... :cry: Knowing that the inevitable is approaching doesn't make it any easier when it actually happens. I wish you and your family (especially your mum) strength in the coming days & months. Dan

Hi, To avoid hijacking this thread even further, lets take this discussion off-line. E-mail me on info@dta-motorsport.co.uk or phone me on 0845 4744382. You're not the chap who drives a black Zed with big spoiler are you? Keep seeing it driving from town centre or at the Kingfisher Centre ... Dan

The brakes (although that would imply discs, calipers, pads & lines - so not exactly one item ...) Upgrading the brakes will give the driver much more confidence and subsequently make the car feel more "chuckable" and nimble. This in turn will give the impression that the car is lighter and therefore quicker than it actually is. The 300 is a heavy car and could do with better brakes. IMHO of course.

One final but not inconsiderate point to remember is that not a single Z32 (in completely stock form) will ever produce the quoted bhp and torque figures as quoted when new from the factory. After many years of use (and abuse) it will have lost a considerable amount of power and torque. So therefore if you swap your NA over to TT and change from a auto to manual conversion you will still not make the magical 276/300bhp. It all depends on the condition of ALL the engine and transmission components.

I sell the Powertrix carbon fibre fog light ducts. See Our website for more information. Our ducts are hand-made and of a superior quality to what you may find elsewhere on the web. Out of curiosity, where in Redditch are you based? I'm over in Studley. Regards, Dan

Not the prettiest but certainly not the worst wide-arch conversion I've seen ... However, lovely red 300 Convertible they've got on there ... and at a reasonable price (£3,999) too!