DTA (UK)

OK - definitive answer: TT (all years): 280mm x 30mm NA (1989-1990) 280mm x 26mm (different discs & calipers than TT's) NA (1991-1996) 280mm x 30mm (same discs & calipers as TT's) Take a look at my website: http://www.smithys-place.co.uk/brakes.php There you'll find DBA discs in the correct sizes as well as Porterfield R4-S brake pads. This combination works really well on a ZX if you're using the car for fast-road use. If you're using the car on a track then I suggest changing to Ferodo DS2500 pads - these are far more aggressive but also "eat" discs. Mintex pads are good for normal road use but not on track. Let me know if I can be of any further assistance or if you want to place an order. Regards,

Yes, prices have gone up indeed! Due to a number of monthly increases by Nissan as well as poor exchange rates. £175.00 is the current price I can do these for. The kit comes with an official wiring loom that connects straight to the existing wiring so no need to cut/splice or solder anything! ;) Regards,

Mr Huggy, ;) The 300ZX NA came with two different size discs/caliper combinations depending on the model year: 1989-1990: 280mm x 26mm discs and calipers to suit 1991-1996: 280mm x 30mm discs and calipers to suit (ie, identical to TT discs and calipers) Therefore, for your car (1992 Z32 N/A) you can buy the same discs as for TT's! ;) I sell DBA performance discs that are direct replacements for the stock 300ZX (TT & NA) discs. They can be had plain or grooved. Prices as follows: Plain: £210.00 (front) £210.00 (rear) Grooved: £296.00 (front) £296.00 (rear) These are normally in stock and delivery is £17.00 per pair of discs. Please let me know if you're interested in placing an order or just discussing this further. Regards,

The smell of unburnt fuel inside the car whilst driving is quite often caused by fumes coming back into the car from the rear. There are several routes for air/fumes to enter the boot area so it may be prudent to check there first. Unburnt fuel coming out the exhaust does indicate there is a problem further up the line so I'd speak to Jeff about this if I were you. You may also want to check the fuel pressure regulator and damper and replace them if they are still the originals. Furthermore, the temp sensor may be feeding incorrect information to the ECU thereby causing it to run rich. I think Jeff will know a number of other potential causes to examin. Good luck! Regards,

This is true but if the HICAS arms or hub bushes are shagged then there will still be movement. When I sell HICAS eliminator bars I ALWAYS advise the customer to also purchase new HICAS arms and/or outer hub bushes. This will then completely tighten up the rear end. HTH Dan

The chromed sets are going to be either aluminium or more likely steel. The stainless pipes (mirror polished) will never rust or corrode and if they get scratched they can be re-polished to perfection. Worth the extra dosh in my opinion. £240 + p&p direct from DTA-Motorsport (UK) with choice of silicone coupler colours. T-Bolt set available at an additional £40. HTH

Haven't used edoperformance but have had plenty of problems with AMZ :( From extremely delayed parts shipments to blatant copying of our product designs ...

I can't remember if your brother bought them from me but could check my administration if you PM me his name ... As for flickering HID lights - there can be a number of causes: 1. Insufficient or unstable voltage supply to ballasts 2. Duff ballast(s) 3. Duff bulb(s) In my experience the dim-dip relay on UK-spec cars will not cause a flickering problem but as your car is a JDM model this doesn't apply at all. Usually, if there is insufficient or unstable voltage supply to either of the ballasts then that ballast will just shut down and the corresponding light won't work. If one of the bulbs is now a "warmer" colour then I would strongly suspect that this bulb is on the way out. Arching inside any of the electrical connections is a bad thing and should be investigated immediately. What I would suggest is you do the following: 1. change over the ballasts and see if the problem persists - if so, is it now on the "opposite" side to before? 2. if the problem persists but on the same side as before then that bulb is on the way out and requires replacing. 3. if the problem "moves" to the other side then it's the ballast that requires changing. Try doing the above without using the additional earthing lead you installed. Both spade connectors should be connected directly to the ballast and the headlight wiring loom (the grey connector). I hope the above makes some sense and that this process will help determine the cause of the problem. If you require new parts please let me know - prices are on http://www.smithys-place.co.uk/hid.php. If your brother got the kit from me then you're looking at the HID PRO ballasts and bulbs. HTH Regards,

Luke and I are both sailing the same ship, so to speak. ;)

Ike, Have now responded to your e-mail. Let me know what you think. Regards, Dan

They're good gauges and very clear even when under moderate sun light. I know Luke isn't sending them out yet as he's currently sourcing all the appropriate adapters, etc. Should be about 2 weeks time. Incidentally, I will be selling these through DTA-Motorsport (UK) as well ... ;)

I can wholeheartedly concur that Navigon is an excellent choice. Not long ago I bought my wife the Navigon 4350MAX (exclusive to Halfrauds) and it cost me about £160.00. It is a superb piece of kit with loads of "toys" as standard, such as: European Mapping Lane Guidance Live Traffic Info (TMC via FM) and Re-routing Reality View Bluetooth hands-free mobile communication for upto 3 phones Loads of updated POI's Speed camera databe etc. I personally have a TomTom on my PDA and to be honest, the Navigon is far superior (extremely quick satellite acquisition). You may want to consider paying a little more but getting so much more for your money. Also, Navigon is probably one of the oldest "SatNav" companies. They are the (German) company that provided most of the OEM build-in satnavs for the likes of Mercedes, Audi, BMW, Jaguar-Land Rover, Seat, Skoda, Volvo, etc, etc. They only recently moved into the "portable" satnav market but draw on a wealth of experience. HTH

Hi, Just seen this thread! My recommendation is always to go for no higher Kelvin rating than 6000K - this produces crisp white light with a very slight blue hue. Any higher rating (ie, 8000K or even 10000K) and the light becomes bluer and actual light output goes down. 6000K is just right. I can still do 300ZX specific kits for £99.00 inclusive of delivery and 1 year warranty on both ballasts & bulbs. All available from UK stock. Let me know if you wish to discuss this further and/or place an order. All the best,

The one's you've listed above are two different kit that both fit the Z32. 507-N009 is a car specific kit and comes with bracing brackets - these are generally not required as the filter head weighs very little anyway. This kit is usually quite expensive. 500-A022 is the filter head kit only and is usually a lot cheaper than the above. However, there is currently a world wide shortage of A'PEXi filters and you'd be lucky to find a place that has them in stock. I normally stock these kits but haven't been able to get a single one from ANYWHERE for over 4 months now. As luck would have it I've got ONE that's coming in next week but that one is already spoken for, with no ETA on any others. Be very careful if you buy off e-bay because a lot of sellers will substitute a so called Universal filter head and call it a 500-A0022 kit. The Universal filter head does not have the correct bolt pattern to fit onto the Z32 MAF. As for a noticeable difference in power - unless you've got supporting modifications (such as a free-flow exhaust) then you're not going to notice much difference. It makes a bit more noise, you may find that mid-range torque feels a bit stronger but a lot of that is psychosomatic and not quantifiable. It will not affect your fuel consumption. In fact it may just make it a smidge better as you're increasing the air intake/breathing of the engine. But again, unless you derestrict the exhaust side of the equation you're not going to find a massive difference. HTH

Crickey! That's terrible luck ... :( However, I've got a brand new pair of Toyo Proxes T1-R's up for sale. Never been fitted and ready to ship. Check out my SALE thread in the DTA-Motorsport (UK) trader section. I do want to sell them as a pair though. Let me know if you want them - they're quite a lot off the current RRP and hence a good bargain. Regards, Dan

BTTT! Still plenty of bargains to be had! Cheerio! Dan

Hi all, Well, it's been a strange day today ... Received a phone call from the tenant who's renting our apartment in Birmingham to say that there had been a fire in the apartment directly below ours. Could I please come round to check for any potential damage. When I got to the apartment the emergency services had already left and the only remaining fire services official left at the flat confirmed that there had indeed been a fire but that it was brought under control within 10 minutes of them arriving there. There had been excessive smoke generation because of a sofa which had caught fire so you can imagine the smell permiating through the building. The very sad news is that despite the quick arrival of the fire brigade and ambulance service, the occupant, a single dad of two, had died en route to the hospital ... Fortunately, the core of the block of apartments is made of concrete as are the dividing cealings and floors. This meant that the fire was very contained but also that there was no structural or water damage to the other apartments. Later this afternoon, I contacted the management company who owns the block of apartments to find out what happens next. In the course of our conversation I was told that a preliminary investigation revealed that a burning cigarette bud falling onto the sofa was the most likely cause of the fire. There were no batteries in the smoke alarms in the apartment. Had there been then the chap's live would probably have been saved. He must have fallen asleep on the sofa whilst still smoking his cigarette ... The reason I'm putting all this info up is to impress upon all of you the need to have sufficient WORKING smoke detectors in your house. Check to make sure that they work at least once a month if not more often. Make sure that you've got a fire blanket and a fire extinguisher in the house as well and that you know how to exit the house even in complete darkness (ie, an escape route). Make sure that everyone else living in your house knows where to go in the event of a fire. I can not stress enough how important this is - lives can be saved for the cost of a new set of batteries in your smoke detectors. So I urge all of you to test your smoke detectors NOW. If you're not sure when you last changed the battery then put a fresh one in. Do not delay. You can even buy smoke detectors with lithium bateries that last around 10 years! I didn't know the chap all that well but for the sake of some batteries his children would still have a father today ... RIP John. PS - please excuse me if the above comes over all sanctiminious and alarmist - but I just could not leave it unsaid.

There is someone over on PistonHeads who's family own the ONLY officially UK delivered Reventon Coupe in the UK. It is up for sale currently as they have the Roadster on order. The (Roadster) production figures are a bit iffy with some media reporting 20 units and others 15 units. I believe the official figure quoted by Lamborghini is 15 units with one additional one for their museum. Only 21 Reventon Coupes were built with number 00 belonging to Lamborghini themselves (you may have seen it displayed in one of the Top Gear episodes recently). I think both versions are sublime although I'm not sure they warrant the exorbitant premium over the current LP640 and LP670SV.

These days seat belt mechanisms are quite intelligent. The inertia mechanism detects whether the car is retarding quickly (as in jerking the belt forward by hand) or controlled (as in braking firmly). Depending on the situation it either blocks the seat belt (former) or pulls it tight (latter). The seatbelt is usually pulled tight across your lap to prevent the occupant from sliding under it and wedging their knees/legs under the dashboard/steering wheel. This is why it is so important to keep the lower section of the seatbelt as flat as possible across your legs and not against your lower abdomen.

Hi all, Just to let you know, I'm holding a MASSIVE SALE to fund a massive corporation tax bill :( Please check it out in the DTA-Motorsport (UK) section in the TRADERS forum or click HERE. EVERYTHING MUST GO! Happy shopping! Regards,

Martin, Don't bother with Goodridge. (their new part number is also incorrect fitment ...) I've spent nearly two years trying to get them to pick up the CORRECT fitment spec for Z32 hoses and they still get it wrong (despite me sending them TWO complete sets of OEM brake lines). I then went to another supplier who got it right in ONE go! Our lines are fully stainless steel braided with the correct connectors AND all line locators and C-clips are supplied. They are also pressure tested to 2000psi for leaks. Also, unlike the Goodridge lines, our lines bolt directly into the brake calipers thereby eliminating any weak points in the short metal pipes that lead into the calipers. I've got a massive sale going on right now so if you're quick you can pick up a complete four line kit for £65.00 including shipping (rrp = £75.00 plus p&p). Paypal only (no fees!) = paypal@dta-motorsport.co.uk These kits are in stock but will go fast. So be quick! HTH Dan

No, just remove the intake pipe and you should have plenty of access to the back of the headlight. Removing the headlight is no simple task either as there is one bolt at the back that's nearly impossible to get to and still have enough purchase to twist your screwdriver! Trust me, removing a pipe is much simpler (make sure it's warmed up - makes it easier to move). Good luck! Dan

1. To remove MAIN beam bulbs, push the spring clip TOGETHER and pull out. The H1 bulb is fitted to an adapter. 2. JDM Dip Beam bulbs are indeed H3C and I have these in stock (£11/pair). And finally, just to correct Munny975: fog lights are H3. Side lights are indeed 501. If you require any bulbs (or HID kit) please let me know as that is one of the things I sell on this forum. Regards, Dan

Have a look at the attached - it's the installation guide I supply with our E.S. steering rack bushings. HTH Dan

That's pretty much "rubbish" because a number of insurance companies now offer "fleet" insurance policies where you have multiple cars under one policy and it doesn't matter what car/model/origin/etc. The last one I heard about was Privilege so give them a try. But I know there are more out there who offer this type of combined policy. Good luck. HTH Dan