DTA (UK)

LOL :) I'd be inclined to agree but this underground garaging system has a water pumping feature and is "guaranteed" to remain dry. The UK-based company used to be "Intergarage 3000" but I can't find their (working) website anymore. Brilliant system though! I've seen it in operation when I was in Germany a few years ago. Very trick! They also have an add-on which will rotate your car through 180-degrees for an easy exit. As for lifting the system when a car is not completely on it - there are failsafe sensor which prevent the system from working in such circumstances.

One of the Sheik's sons (in Dubai) has one of these (couble width) units installed at one of the palaces. It is used as the access point to a 20-car underground garage!

That's a HKS ALC-1. The ALC-2 is much smaller. HTH Dan

They were probably on their way to the annual Lamborghini Club UK dinner in Stratford on Avon. Always a great event with 30~40 Lambos in attendance. They [large convoy] came through Alcester on their way to Studley Castle on Sunday morning and brought the entire village to a stand still! :)

I would recommend both Porterfield and Ferodo DS2500's. However, they are for different styles of driving. The Porterfields are perfect for fast road use whereas the Ferodo's are much harder and are more suitable to track use (they also tend to squeel terribly when driving around town). Price wise you're looking at: Porterfield R4-S (front): £75.00 Porterfield R4-S (rear): £80.00 Ferodo DS2500 (front): £129.50 Ferodo DS2500 (rear): £105.00 I have all these pads in stock at the moment (although I'm down to my last set of Porterfields (front)). Let me know if I can be of further assistance. Regards, Dan

That's Nissan/Infinity J30. Loads sold over in the US back in the (early) 90's (IIRC) and very well received (quality wise). Did indeed have a 3.0L V6 VG30DE engine. Rear wheel drive luxury Nissan.

This can sometimes happen if using a USB converter. Not all converters are created equal and some have problems keeping up with the bi-directional flow of data. Sometimes updated drivers sort the problem, other times you're better off buying either a new cable or converter.

The kit you are describing is identical to the KSport brake kits I sell. Front: 356mm 2-piece discs with 8- pot caliper Rear: 330mm 2-piece discs with 6-pot caliper (retains use of stock handbrake mechanism) Cost of the kit as sold by me: Front: £1,240.00 Rear: £990.00 Shipping cost depends on where the kits are going to. Each kit consists of the discs, calipers, KSport brake pads and braided brake lines. You can upgrade to Ferodo DS2500 pads at an additional cost of £210.00 for the front and £97.00 for the rear. I can also provide you with a 330mm/8-pot front kit priced at £990.00 if that would fit your wheels better. Please let me know if I can provide any further information. Regards,

Just for the record: 1x KOYO Racing Radiator = $399.00 (average non-discounted price at US retailers) 1x Shipping to UK via USPS = $90.00 (is cheapest method. Express will run you on average $125.00) 1x Import Duty/VAT/Agent Handling Fees (all at 22% of shipped total) = $107.00 (this must be considered as practically no parcel this size/weight will pass through customs without charge) TOTAL = $596.00 Today's exchange rate: $1.00 = £0.618 Therefore, the delivered price of a KOYO radiator (NO BRACKETS) to anywhere in the UK = £368.00 (and this does not include any profit markup) I suspect given the above calculation that our DTA Performance Radiators and full length stainless steel brackets seem rather reasonably priced. Now, if anyone else would like to complain about the price of our KOYO/HOWE full length radiator brackets I suggest you prepare your arguments very carefully. @ Smithy: thanks for the backup bud :) Regards, Dan

Hi Joel, Please see the attached pic. It also includes the two types of radiator brackets that I do. Both are made from miror polished stainless steel. One is plain, the other has the "Z" logo cut out at the centre. The radiator uses a 55mm KOYO core with aluminium end tanks tig welded onto the core. Prices as requested: RAD001: DTA Performance Radiator (Twin Turbo Manual only): £160.00 RAD003: DTA Performance Radiator Bracket (plain): £50.00 RAD004: DTA Performance Radiator Bracket (logo): £55.00 DEL001: Next Day Delivery (Courier): £10.00 If the bracket is purchased at the same time as the radiator I'll do it all for the princely sum of £200.00 plus delivery. Please note that this radiator currently only fits TWIN TURBO cars only. This is due to the mounting points being different between TT's and NA's. I'm working on a cost effective solution for this. Also, this radiator can be use on AUTOMATIC cars ONLY if they have a separate A/T box cooler already installed. HTH Dan

As stated above, no need to remove the plenum. I've got a number of stainless steel braided fuel line kits left in stock with red hose finishers. The kit consists of two pre-cut lengths of stainless steel braided high pressure fuel hose and also comes with rubber-lined P-clips and a chrome hose separator. £68.00 plus £6.85 delivery (next day). Can also get chrome or blue hose finishers but will need to order them in (takes about 3~5 working days). HTH Dan

Don't know why people are slagging of the Boxter. I had a Boxter S for a short while (whilst living in Spain) and it was a great car. Handled extremely well and was very predictable and manageable. Electric roof worked every time and the car never failed me. However, if going down the Porsche route you must be prepared for high maintenance costs (if you think maintaining a ZX is expensive, think again). Not the most "involved" drive of your life but a lot of fun nonetheless. I moved on to a Ferrari F355 Spider after the Porsche and that was a completely different kettle of fish all together. Even found a few knickers on the seat after a few dinners in Puerto Banus ... Now, that would never have happened in the Boxter ... ;) Sorry Alan, this post may not be of much help to you but if you fancy the Boxter I'd say go for it. At least you'll have a few months of fun out of it before selling it on.

Interesting headlights ... I like Kenilworth Castle (as far as ruins go ... ) ;)

Hi Joel, Only just spotted this thread ... apologies for the delay in responding. The DTA-Motorsport "budget" performance radiator is in fact using a KOYO core and aluminium end tanks. So pretty much identical to a KOYO radiator but ours is less than half the price! Quality wise they are identical, cooling capacity and efficiency is also identical so there isn't really a need to pay the premium to get a KOYO branded radiator. Our radiators do need to be secured with our stainless steel rad brackets as they are nearly twice as thick as stock rads. I'll check on up-to-date pricing in the morning when I get back into the office but last time I checked our performance radiator was priced at around the £160 mark. I'll let you know and post a picture as well. Cheers! Dan

Hi Dave, Just chiming in as I've onlly just noticed this thread. It does sound like a com port issue. To resolve it you need to make sure the comport for your USB dongle is the same as the one listed in the ConZult software. To find out which com port has been allocated visit the Device Manager and then in the ConZult software itself you'll need to select this comport from the drop down menu in the settings screen. Hope Murt has been able to help you. If not give me a call and I'll talk you through it. All the best, Dan PS - make sure you're running the Vista USB converter drivers (should be on the CDR I sent you)

You won't need to worry about wiring anything in because the kit comes complete with a harness. This plugs directly into your existing wiring loom. Also, USPS most definitely gets intercepted by Customs & Excise. I've just had to pay import duty/vat & agency handling fees on a consignment from the US that came via USPS (by the way, ParcelForce are the UK handling agents). You should therefore budget to pay in the region of 24% of the TOTAL SHIPPED COST for import duty/vat/handling. You may get lucky but from experience I'd say it will be charged. Regards, Dan

Have missed this annual phenomenon three years on the trot now courtesy of crap weather and last night was no exception. I really need to move ... :(

Bugger ... Here I was hoping a giant crevase would open up in the Earth and all the scrotes, chavs and Jeremy Kyle would fall (be pushed) in ... Guess I'll have to wait another millenium ... ;)

What he said ... ;) LOL!

Sounds like you've followed the correct procedure with the wires/connectors. However, as was stated in the other thread you put up, the problem you are currently encountering could be due to (1) blown fuse or (2) low battery level. Normally, when you turn the HIDs on (ie, turn headlight knob to SECOND position) then the HID ballasts will emmit a high pitched noise (should be continuous and not intermittent). This noise eventually becomes so high pitched that you can't hear it. Flickering HID bulbs usually means a bad ballast or low battery power. As suggested, check over the headlight fuse and then make sure the battery is fully charged (check it with a volt meter if necessary). Then try turning the headlights on again. HTH Dan

Sorry for delayed response Andy ... Yes, two of the hoses have a restrictor & brush in them. These are essential and should be present in any replacement hoses. And yes, you could have connected your setup straight to the valves provided you included the restrictor/brushes as well. Make sure they are secured tightly, you don't want them "wandering" through your hoses ... Regards,

Thanks Tony! Will look into that. Problem I'm having is that my TomTom One V4 is constantly loosing its fix on the satellites and it takes ages for it to re-connect (as it were). I also use TomTom software on my PDA and that hasn't been as problematic (although it does freeze from time to time). Regards, Dan

Hi, I would like to buy my lovely lady wife a full-feature SatNav. Requirements, other than UK/ROI/EU mapping & speed camera features, are: TMC (free traffic updates via fm/rds) Lane assist (shows which lane to be in at complicated junctions/islands, etc) Bluetooth (hands-free calling) Text-to-speech (ie, turn left into Elm Road 500 yards ahead) I don't want to buy a TomTom as I've had nothing but problems with the one I'm using. Got it narrowed down to the following two units: 1. Garmin Nuvi 765T 2. Navigon 4350Max Question to you, my esteemed fellow ZX owners, is: do any of you have either of these units? If so, what's to like and what not? And are there any other units I should be considering? The budget is up to £230. I know that Garmin is the market leader and should be the obvious choice BUT the Navigon (which I'd never heard of before dropping into my local Halfrauds this morning) is nearly £60 cheaper and seems to do the same things ... Oh, dilemas, dilemas! Many thanks for your feedback! Regards, Dan

Hi, I know we only just talked on the phone about this but in the interest of keeping information in this thread factual allow me to say the following. There are two different types of silicone hoses: (1) Vacuum tubing, which is often sold in meters or on a reel, and (2) silicone tubing, which is often sold per meter length. Vacuum tubing, although made from silicone, is prepared via an entirely different method than pure silicone tubing. As such, vacuum tubing is ONLY suitable for clean AIR applications. The PCV system carries quite a bit of oil vapours which will eventually corrode the vacuum tubing. So, for a PCV application you require SILICONE tubing. Next thing to realise is that you can only bend silicone tubing to a certain extend without loosing structural integrity or causing it to collapse in on itself. As there are a couple of PCV hoses with near 90-degree bends in them you will need to buy pre-formed silicone tubing to replace the OEM hoses. Now for a shameless plug, as luck would have it I can supply all sorts of silicone and vacuum tubing. I've also got access to silicone PCV hoses. For more information/prices please contact me on 0845 4744382. Hope the above (technical) info has been useful. Regards, Dan

OK. It looks tricky but it is really quite straight forward. What you've got is a UK-spec vehicle in which the headlight wiring loom consists of a red wire with spade connector and a black wire with a male bullet connector. Lets forget about the "other" black wire that comes directly out of the headlight unit for a second. In order to connect your HID bulb up CORRECTLY you will need to connect the two red wires together (as you've already done) and then connect the black wire coming off the HID bulb (with spade connector) with the black wire with the male bullet connector. You'll need to either construct a conversion lead (which is what I provide with all my HID kits; it's a female spade to female bullet connector conversion) or just cut off the male bullet connector and crimp on a female spade connector. JOB DONE. Now the extra black wire (with bullet connector) coming out of the headlight: that was done so that the dip beam stays on when main beam is selected. This wire will originally have been connected to the other black wire (with bullet connector). If you look into the back of the headlight housing (using a mirror) you'll find that this wire is connected to a screw on the actual headlight bulb housing. It serves as an additional earthing point for the headlight. The Z32 headlights are so-called "earth switched" which is what changes the headlight from dip to main beam. What you can do with this additional wire is either remove it (although this may require complete removal of the entire headlight unit in order to get access to the back of the housing) or just cover the spade connector with some electrical tape so that there is no chance of it touching any metal. JOB DONE. I hope the above makes sense and that this has been helpful with your installation. If not, you can always give me a call on 845 4744-382, I'm always happy to help. :) Good luck! Dan