AndyGP

Having devaned the pump as above - I have capped 'C' with an -8 end cap terminator.

Shrek - it's M16 not M18 - or at least it was on mine. :innocent: :clap:

Z32 matey - this is the bit you are missing I think ;-)) http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_images/HICAS-TT_Pump_Mod.pdf Andy

Quite common in the USA to get the plenum chromed - BUT - it expands and contracts quite a lot and there a lot of people complaining of the chrome flaking and of course going blue near the touch points. IMHO it does not look good, or sound suitable for anything other than a pure show car. Polishing is the way to go chaps - come on! ;-))

Yeah - place cable tie over stick - place neck of gaiter (inside-out kinda) over stick - bring cable tie up and tie the gaiter to the stick tightly - fold the gaiter down and secure the perimeter down as usual right?

Thanks matey - all good - I have too spent almost 2 years now researching, mocking up and generally getting involved with the (high level) fuel rail situation and I believe I have the best solution on my car right now - but can't show you guys until the new year or maybe spring. :clap: I considered the above from Mattz but I have to tell you THAT IN MY OPINION, AND FROM WHAT I HAVE LEARNED - DON'T BUY A FUEL RAIL WITH WELDED JOINTS OK ;-)) High pressure fuel rail and welded joints are just not viable in my opinion - and also - I don't like the way the injectors are secured in place with the above design - looks loke a point of failure/wear. :blink: Will get some pics out as soon as possible... Andy

Possible but unlikely in my experiance to date matey. Depends how big the stone is ;-))

Acrylic is stronger than glass sir ;-))

TBH - if these are just made my 'hot forming' acrylic over a fibreglass buck of a mould from the original glass - I will have a go at these as well as it aint' hard to do? A job for next year me thinks...

You could check out Jimmy's thread here: http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showpost.php?p=1180064 :detective: Search is your friend :smartass:

TRUST is the word. If the reason you bought a ZED is because you like a bit of 'spirited' driving (when safe to do so) or occasional track use then you have to get the HICAS out of your car IMHO! :thumbup: With the HICAS gone - it's back to you and the car, I just could not live with (or trust) the backend whilst HICAS was involved, was always a little unsure going into a fast corner (and coming out) and frankly that spoils the experience somewhat for me - especially if you like to drive 'on the gas'. I still consider it a gimmick add-on, and not a 'safety feature' that helps the driver manouver around fast corners!! Others will disagree. Even my scrummie honey has commented on the difference in the car's cornering 'stability' after removal - she always said that [before] it felt a bit like a Thorpe Park Ride when cornering before - and I kinda know what she means. :clap: At the end of the day it is of course down to you sir - but I for one would reccomend it whole heartedly. (:dots:Personal opionion and I am not responsible if you remove your HICAS and drift into a tree pre or post removal:dots:) :angel::blink: Cheers Andy

Yeah that's what I meant Jeff - so no cables - shame: BLAST! Thanks man. A ;-))

Cheers - is the cable control front entry to the lever or rear matey do you know? :helpsmilie:

Yes # Kit including Toe rods, Polybushes, Brackets and Mounting Hardware. # Replaces Hicas rear steering on Hicas equipped Nissans http://www.driftworks.com/catalog/images/large/HicasEliminator1.jpg

Which is it please... ...That is the question? :chinese: :scooter:

Yep - everything he said - I am a driftworks HICAS kit happy user :1eye:

It's a nicely fabricated battery tray BUT - those sharp corners are gonna rip your hands/arms open one day for sure - I hope santa brings you a file for xmas :lol: Seriously - nice work - thanks for sharing with us. :rockon:

Maybe next year - getting ready to go to Malaysia/Singapore for xmas/new year. Car is down at our Dorset place though currently!

:wack: Hi, PAS fluid has a nasty habit of finding it's way down/dripping into the alternator and messing the thing up for good.... :wack:

Are there positive stories regarding install and setup etc... Or is it a B*tch?

.... dam that stuff makes a mess and potentially screws up your alternator! Having serviced and cleaned the PAS pump I decided to AN the pump fittings and thought I would post in case anyone wants to do similar. Parts used on the pump were: 2 x Banjo adapter M16 to -8AN 2 x M16 x 1.5 Banjo Bolt (I could have used the originals) 4 x 3/8BSP/M16 copper washer Here are a couple of piccies... Also changed all the connections on my PAS POT to AN -8 Finally I still need to weld a -8 female bung into the PAS feed pipe so that it is completely leak proof :hyper: Then refit, re-plumb - Job done forever I hope! :)

So no-one actually using AEM yet???!?!?!?!?

They would have to be highly polished before they are chromed anyway so....

If you pollute this forum with that attitude - your membership will stagnate/decrease accordingly - please don't go there!!

pictures coming soon..