AndyGP

Hi matey: Apparently their is no ref to the fuel temp sensor (standard ECU - JD Chip) other than related to the PRVR - which I have already deleted, so I could ground the sensor and be done with it. However, I have for now made provision for it to live here - the other side of the fuel filter and in line to the rail feeds for now. Once the car is running sweet again, I will probably just ground it, and replace/fit an external separate fuel temp gauge altogether.

19.99 plus vat - I am a member - but would have to drive a 80 mile round trip to pick some up!!!

This orange seal helps insulate the injector body from physical heat transfer from the lower plenum via the injector into the fuel rail.

A lot of flippin work Daz - I hope it's worth it!!

About 1000 USD plus taxes/duty - more details coming soon...

Did not make it myself - bought it :clap::thumbup1::euro:

These rails will prevent the use of the standard throttle cable cover, and also will not work with the cruise control in place either. The core is 15mm all the way with -8AN threads on the legs and rail ends, although I have opted for -6AN fittings as I am currently only using 555cc injectors.

That's it for now - will post complete install and finished engine as soon as possible - any questions please fire away.. Andy

This cut out of the front block is for the throttle cable to sit in...

Hi - Happy New Year to all - I have been rattling on about my fuel rail for what seems an age now, but I have finally got something finished and ready for my car! Just to recap: I wanted injector choice using top feed Bosch style injectors. I considered the 300degree rails (and others) a poor solution (for me). I wanted parallel fuel feed options. I wanted to prevent thermally conducted engine heat from the engine warming the fuel delivery system. I wanted to be able to change injectors easily without plenum removal. I wanted a fuel rail that could grow with my engine as it changes and becomes more powerful. (This system is good for up to 1600cc injectors)! I didn't want to have to modify my engine too much! (Just the lower plenum). I promised some pictures so... These are the fuel rails test fitted to the lower plenum which has the custom injector bungs fitted. The bungs look like this: Here you can see the rails with the injectors test fitted - on the bench so to speak: This is what it's all about - 555cc RCE injectors, as used by many race teams - £35.00 each NEW 1000cc RCE injectors are £75.00!!! A couple of shots of the rails attached to the lower plenum: The rails are joined and held in place by two phenolic blocks (non heat transfer material) that are also holding two brackets that hold the rails down via 4 x new (upper plenum fixing) bolts. (they are going to get covered in Carbon Fibre probably so.. :thumbup1:) Couple more shots: ...

Fuel Rail Update at last...

DRIFTWORKS is better solution IMHO

Yeah I have read posts that say the piston just drops or pops out!!!! lol I had to drill a hole in the piston and screw a self tapper in and yank it out eventually ;-)) My interpretation of the pdf was that the user was looping the HICAS line - not blocking it off with a bolt or any other way. As per Jimmy's post or the Z1 write up here: http://www.z1motorsports.com/imageGa...mName=album248 Or Stellaz effort here: http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=117337&highlight=hicas+removal Hope that helps matey. Happy New Year.

Slow down, check the new pump against your old pump (if you have one) compare then act. Can't tell from the pic's what the status is so take care. I don't know what others have done but if you look at my original post - I have replaced with AN fittings and just capped it yes. http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showpost.php?p=1330820

In the 2nd picture - I believe that maybe the top of the piston in question - you need to 'pop' it out - just to be sure if you poke a screwdriver in there - it should move up and down! I guess it could be seized!! I had to drill a hole in mine and screw a self tapper in to pull it out - not reccomending same but... :batman: Who said the banjo fixing bolt would fit after removing the banjo?? Never seen that anywhere? :ohmy:

No - It's possible with the engine in - I have done it on both my TT's.. Just say goodbye to any skin on the backs of your hands ;-)) Good luck.

OK that's a better pic - def the heater pipes: Bit of a pain to do - but very possible: I suggest you buy both heater feed and heater return pipes and do them at the same time. These are the parts: 92410 & 92400 I believe: http://www.courtesyparts.com/92410-hose-heateroutlet-300zx-z32-1990-1996-p-34243.html?cPath=882& http://www.courtesyparts.com/92400-hose-heaterinlet-300zx-z32-1990-1996-p-34242.html?cPath=882& First move/remove the wiring harness from across the rear of the engine/firewall area(just enough to get a little more room to work). Using the long screwdriver, loosen the clamps on the firewall end of the hoses/pipes. Remove the Heater hoses from the two pipes coming from the engine and then get hold of the lower section of those pipes with the long-nosed pliers and twist them free of the firewall pipes. Take the new hoses and smear a liberal amount of Vaseline in and around the bottom ends. Reaching in with the long-nosed pliers(holding the hose about 30-40mm from the bottom end)force the open end onto the pipe projecting from the firewall(do the same on the other hose as well). When you have them both on the firewall pipes, slide the loosened hose clamps down from the top end of the hoses and tighten them in place. All that remains is to push the upper ends onto the engine pipes and fit the clamps to those as well. Put everything else back into position, and top-up your coolant. Sounds easy - kiss goodbye to maybe 3 hours if it's your first time ;-)

That's if I have interpreted the photo correctly - that is ;-(( Have you got a better picture - maybe zoomed out a little?

Your local Nissan dealer may have one if your lucky - you should be able to change it out yourself - or a mechanic could obviously do it - its a 30 min job tops inc topping up water/anti-freeze etc. It looks like one of the main heater Hoses - please check here: http://www.courtesyparts.com/300zx-parts-z32-1990-1996/genuine-nissan-parts/exhaust-cooling/211-water-hose-piping/-c-882_883_908_912.html So it's 14056NE by the looks of it.. Hope that helps matey... Andy

NAH! - That's a 5K car IMHO

Me thinks - very possibly. :thumbup:

Yes matey - very likely!

Yeah the pump will lock up if you don't de-vane sir. (According to sites in the USA)

IMHO - I would sell it - start again matey.. Very sad to hear your news man... Feel for you.