ianl

thanks for organising and coming the furthest to join us was good to meet lots of new people the burgers at box hill were wonderfull :)

the reason for fusing near the battery as possible is that the wire between the battery and the fuse is unprotected. so if your only fuse is under the dash and the wire from the battery snags on the chasis (say where it goes through the bulkhead) and shorts out then the fuse will not blow but the wire could melt, or your car could catch fire , or your battery could be damaged some of the "high current" blade fuse holders about are the cheapest piece of junk with very poor elecrical connections. so as you say it is probably a poor conection in the fuse holder getting hot rather than a fault in your wiring. certainly once the holder has melted i would not reuse it. personally i changed the blade holder that came with mine to one of the plastic tube with screw end caps and a fuse that looks like a standard domestic one. you can get them in halfords (or cpc if you have an acount are much cheaper)

with the simple earthing: when you have no lights on and flash your full beam the dipped flash as well as the full beam with the full mod as per the word document: when you have no lights on and flash your full beam only the full beam flashes

37. ianl

asume you mean the door open / interior light on relay ie a blue one first does the relay click when you open and close the door? if not then its either broken or isn't getting the signal from the door. try swapping it for any other blue relay from the car if it does click, the relay has 4 terminals. they may be marked up so 2 of them have a coil symbol between them and 2 have a switch symbol between them. remove the wires from the 2 terminals with the switch symbol and attach your multimeter to the terminals (in resistance or beep mode) with the door closed the relay switch should be no continuity and change to continuity when you open the door. next reatach the wires, set your multimeter to "volts dc" touch the multimeter black lead to a ground (any piece of car chassis) and put the red lead on one of the relay switch terminals and then the other. one side terminal should always be 12 volts and the other is 12v when your door is open. if neither is 12v then probably a fuse some where however from you description of flickering i would look for a poor ground connection somewhere. maybee the door switch not screwed on tight or a whire from the interior lamp or relay not screwed tightly to the chasis bare in mind that all the above is from memory and without lookin at the circuit diagram or the car so i may have not described everything 100% as you will see it

mmmmmm, electric hardtop, sod it, i'll sell the house for that

right i'm off to re-morgage the house :D

look harder :) i would so love to convert mine to electric hood

don't know if passenger side are the same but, apparently its a fairly common fault to get a dry joint, probably where the connector solders on. so if youve got a soldering iron it may be a quick fix

stock 300zx front speakers are 6" not 6.5"

drivers footwell, on side wall right up next to accelerator. remove pannel looks like: (click to enlarrge) think it's the fuse marked clearance ilumination

any ideas?

yes, it involves fitting another relay in the engine bay and running a wire from your indicator / flash stalk and i think soldering a diode there is a good write up on it with pictures somewhere

does the 300zx (specifically a 1995 series 4, as i didn't think the series 1 did) have a cabin filter or pollen filter my air flow to the cabin vents seems lower than it should be and i was wondering if there were filters that needed cleaning, and if so where i would find them

in which case may help

the signal from the speed sensor goes to the speedo and then onto the ecu. the ecu controls the variable power steering. if it gets no signal it asumes worst case that you are traveling fast and sets the power steering to it's heavyest setting. possibly as it's a jap he has broken or badly installed km/h to m/h converter or dodgy speed sensor or broken wire or fuse. whereabouts? maybe there is some one local to him who could look at it

i want to make my (stock) brakes a bit better without spending a fortune. what should i do?

i counted about 25 300zx over the 2 days and i never found the Zclub stand either. there were 5 or 6 on Banzai, and 5 more on Japgirls, and i saw 7 i think on the strip. Saw the Zcentre one and Machine's, both looking very nice. I asume it was you and him that were getting into it about 4pm today

make sure they know its a z32 not a z31 and that they know its a tt and if its a manual that too. when mine was writen off they "proved" what it was worth by showing me adverts for a Z31, 2 NAs and a non runner

well i vote for newlands corner or boxhill as they are nearer me, but happy to travel anywhere

todays plan was to: 1) calibrate my speedo correctly 2) a)replace my km/h to mph converter to see if this helped my power steering problem or b) do the resister replacement mod 3) remove the annoying reversing bleeper not going to plan so far: 1) where is the pot to calibrate the speedo??? any ideas how to adjust it without a pot, as it is way out since my manual conversion: 2) a)new km/h converter fitted - still got power steering problems so b) where is R10 that needs replacing., mine only go up to R5: 3) where the @**$@ is the reversing bleeper, i can hear it from somewhere behind the dash, found the lights left on / too fast bleeper easily enough .

i'm up for any sept / october meets. going to japshow too, shame there is no 300zx stand

i do ! i'm up for japshow ,

and clicking on the link further down that thread is going to give me nightmares: .

anywhere else?