ianl

the car or the brace?

well after lots of cursing and damaged hands and most of the morning I can confirm that a carbing rear strut brace does not fit a convertable Z. someone welded a large chunk of boot in the way, off to buy a bigger club hammer......

well i'm up for another IOW trip, although probably don't need to watch the sunset from the middle of nowhere again also happy to go to the Hatchgate anytime as they do good food

where would i find the speed sensor then? is it easy to change? or are there some connectors to wiggle or plug in properly?

thanks for the replies, i investigated a bit more: got up this morning, started the car, speedo needle didn't move, reversed off the drive and drove off down the road, power steering heavy the whole time i noticed driving slowlyish that the speedo was still reading zero, about a hundred yards down the road things happened: 1. speedo suddenly jumped to 20mph and from then on worked fine at all speeds including below 20mph 2. noise of pump / motor werring from back right of car (possible the ABS???) 3. the steering started working properly all worked fine for a while until i was sat in a queue for a car park half an hour latter, the steering suddenly went heavy and the idle revs jumped to 2000 (coincidence??) didn't go above a crawl so no idea if the speedo was working. came back to car, started car, speedo jumps to 20mph and back to zero, steering works properly. exactly the same happened the next 3 times i stopped and started. power steering fluid looks ok to me and about the right level i asume i have a converter chip as its an import, the speedo dial has a sticker added saying mph and the dial reeds up to 180

shame, i thought she did a good job on the meets i went to

when i first start my car after it's been sat overnight or all day the power steering is very heavy (not completely broken just not as light as it should be) a hundred yards or so down the road it suddenly fixes itself and if i'm trying to turn at the time it becomes obviously lighter. it doesn't seem to matter how fast i acelerate or what speed i'm doing at the point it starts working properly once it starts working it seems to work fine for the rest of the journey (including short stops) at whatever speed just as it should. any ideas? thanks ian

3 LED needs 415 ohm so nearest available is 470ohm 4 LED needs 320ohm so neerest available is 330ohm 1/4 watt should do

yes, except iirc they don't make a 200ohm resistor so you need a 180 ohm (slightly brighter) or a 220 ohm (slightly dimmer)

try http://metku.net/index.html?sect=view&n=1&path=mods/ledcalc/index_eng#series

think you may have got it wrong, i rekon 120 ohm for 12v and 220 ohm for 14 v would be tempted to go for the 14v option or a value inbetween the two,

you also need a different resister say you have one 2v led and a 12v car led likes about 20ma so you are looking at 10v being dropped across the resistor passing 20ma r=v/i r=10 / 0.02 =500ohm p=iv = 0.02x 10=0.2watts if you have 10 led in parralel: current required through resistor = 10x0.02=0.2amps voltage drop is the same so r=v/i=10/0.2=50ohm p=iv=0.2x10 =2watts i've done the above very quickly, don't blame me if you don't check it and your leds blow up

yes i agree 4 ohms is standard, i read 3 ohms on my meter at the speaker and 45 ohms at the head unit end of the speaker cable (with hu disconected) i read highish impedance between one end of the speaker cable and the other using the inbuilt wires i get distortion from amplifier clipping well before my head unit clips and poor bass response disconnecting the power supply to the wire that i belive powers the hidden amp stops the speakers working all of the above lead me to belive that their is a hidden amp in the end i ran new wires and it all sounds good :)

thats where the amp for the rear speakers on a uk model are but being a convertable i don't have that trim and it seems a strange place to put an amp for the front speakers

i am replacing the front (and only) speakers in my '95 convertable i have established without a doubt that hidden somewhere in the car between the head unit and the speakers there is an amplifier (proved by impedance of speaker and removing power that feeds speakers (green and white)) the problem is i can't find it, it's sh1t and i want to bypass it. i was expecting to find the standard bose speaker and an amp in a plastic box in the door, but no this is whats in the door: (darn , i must learn how to post photos properly ) so no amp there, nothing i can see behind the head unit either so i thought i would look in the passenger footwell, which leads me to the next question of could someone tell me what all this is: the ecu is obvious as its labled, so theres the blue thing under it, the silver thing below it, the nissan thing to the left of it and an alpine thing in the dark in the top left close up of alpine: at first i thought it was an amplifier but starting to think it may be for the origonal japanese alarm system as the connector bottom left looks like it might be for an antena and the wire colours don't seem to match not sure if this is perculier to convertables, '95 models, swb or just my car so any help apreciated

http://www.ultraleds.co.uk/u38225a-amber-indicator-pair-brighter-p-741.html ?????

silver Warick services m40 southbound about 2pm wed. parked in the row behind me

and me if i'm not too late

the how to guide i have says "make sure you get a blue one"

dc v

could you explain more, i'm having battery problems which i think may be related

the screw adjusts the beam angle unscrew the indicator next to it (2 screws) reach in through where the indicator was with a short 10mm spanner and undo the 3 nuts on the back of the side light, remove sidelight, undo the 4 screws on the back, and open the unit up

if it is a uk spec then as stock there is an amp hidden under the trim on the right of the boot nearish to the speaker, the stock speaker is a round (4inch?) the stock uk fronts didn't have an amp sometimes when these are changed to 6x4s the amp is still left in line as the person changing the speakers dosn't realise some jap spec cars came with plastic speaker units with amp and speaker built in and some i belive didnt, mine has these in the front (no back speakers as convertable) the bose amp / speaker system works on a much lower impedance than standard speakers and therefore you ideally want to bypass the bose amp if you are changing the speakers. if you bypass the amp you definatly want to change the speakers

asuming stock speakers, have a look at the loom / connector for the back speakers they may be 5 wires on the car loom and only 4 on the adapter, the extra wire would be power to the built in amp(s) connect it to the switched output of the headunit that makes the electric ariel go up / down

some looms don't have a ground wire in them the zed as standard has a seperate ground wire attached to the car behind the stereo on a spade crimp, the other end gets bolted to the back of the stereo (using short bolts!)