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Z32 = 2 seater swb Non Turbo CZ32 = 2 seater swb Twin Turbo GZ32 = 2+2 lwb non Turbo GCZ32 = 2+2 lwb Twin Turbo

in theory you need proper vacuum hose. that hose contains a vacuum which on a standard silicon hose could colapse the hose (ie suck it shut) vacuum hoses are reinforced to stop this. then again it may work

Thanks for organising everything, all the food and the entertainment. made it a great show

i don't supose you noted down who came second in each category? would be nice to know which of the cars other than the Beast were popular

perhaps we should go and see him then.......

i could have a quick look at it at JAE if you havnt fixed it by then, i'm there friday and saturday

i'm guestimating a bit but i would say: yellow "amp" is a switched 12v feed to tell external amps to switch on, can also be used for electric aerials red "camera" is for connecting to reversing switch to change screen to rearview camera (although i'm a bit concerned that it says "camera power") blue " back" could be "backlight" ie connect to illumination circuit or if "camera power" is actually 12v to power a camera then "back" may be the switch screen to camera input bit difficult to say for sure without a meter or a better look at the instructions

oi !who moved the goal posts, thought it was a bit quiet there today

use the yellow one labled amp

what about the illuminated drivers door lock surround. it should light up when you pull the outside door handle?

i'll have a special one please

bolox, i'd forgotten about that, what would i do without this club? better stop working and go home and eat birthday cake lol I thought Stella was giving me a picture of some boobs as a birthday present, then i realised it was a signature so how bout as a birthday present you all vote for my car in car of the month?

uk H reg TT Manual £10, 999 M reg Vert £6,000 J reg slicktop manual TT £3,200

do you mean with the actual aerial as in the 2 pin plug in photo 3 or the power feed to make the aerial go up?

i wont pop round to help then :) feed the both the amp and the electric aerial off the "power antenna" conection

hmm, wierd so the switch is sending whatever is on the middle pin to either the left pin or the right pin depending on the switch position. can you see where the wires go to or if they join to any other wires?

ok, difficult to see the colours of your wires but: on the 6 pin connector in picture 2 you have 4 wires that go to the rear speakers and 1 wire that feeds power to the amp units built into the front speakers if import and rear speakers if uk asuming your conector as shown in the picture has the latch on the side facing away from the camera: right hand side, cable furthest away from the camera is the switched +ve feed out of the stereo to the amps right hand side nearest to the camera - not sure , only ever seen it on a unit with CD changer - might be switched power to the cd changer but thats a total guess {see ** below} middle pair is one speaker - latch side +ve, non latch side -ve left hand pair is other speaker- latch side +ve, non latch side -ve on the 10 pin plug in picture 1: the furthest right pair are front left speakers - latch side +ve, non latch side -ve next pair are front right speakers - latch side +ve, non latch side -ve centre pair: latch side is 12v constant from battery. non latch side is the feed to make the electric aerial go up next pair: latch side is the feed from your illumination circuit, non latch side - no idea {see ** below} left hand pair: latch side 12v feed from ignition circuit. non latch side - no idea. it is possible that one of the "no idea ones" may be a ground (0v) however generally the 300zx did not have a 0volt feed in the wiring loom but instead had a seperate wire that ran from a crimp on the bulkhead behind the stereo to a bolt on the back of the stereo. therefore when fitting aftermarket stereos you generally need to either bolt this 0volt wire to the new stereo or splice it into the new stereo loom where it expects it alternativly you can just buy a nissan to ISO adapter and splice in the ground and power amp feed if necesary where abouts are you in the country? ** looking at the picture in your rides, your stock stereo looks the same model as one i have here. in this case these 2 pins are not fitted to my stereo, however the car it came from does have a grey wire in the loom that went to the non existent pin in photo 2. presumably they are therefore cables in the loom incase the origonal buyer decided to upgradee to a better stock stereo. in this case you could probably ignore them

yes there is an adapter available, search ebay for nissan aerial adapter

well the 3rd picture is the feed from the multichanger on the left and the aerial plug on the right from memory the ones with stock CD changer were wired a little odd picture 2 is probably one set of speakers, the feed to the amp in the speaker unit and maybe a ground picture 1 will probably be half the other set of speekers and half the power connections will check further when i get home in a couple of hours if your still stuck not sure on 4th picture switch isnt stock, whats it connected to / which way do wires go/ was it mounted so you could switch it? some people fit extra switches so the areal only goes up when you want it to

so how much is it?

1. buy UK clocks. +ve: reliable, easy -ve : speed limiter and to fast bonging noise still active unless you also chip the ECU involves: about 30 srews and 12 plugs but no soldering note : not possible for cars built 1995 onwards 2. fit converter. +ve: easy and cheap -ve: has been known to mess up power steering at low speads (when you want it) involves: cutting a wire and crimping the cut wire to 2 wires of converter, attaching 2 wires to back of speedo, easiest with crimps and screws 3. change face of speedo to one that goes up to 120mph +ve : cheapest and reasonably easy -ve : speed limiter and to fast bonging noise still active unless you also chip the ECU. also obviously speedo only goes up to 120 involves: about 30 srews and 12 plugs but no soldering, also remove speedo neadleto change face and replace needle requires some care 4. change a resistor on the speedo and adjust potentiometer to get acurate +ve : cheap and acurate -ve: speed limiter and to fast bonging noise still active unless you also chip the ECU. involves soldering and driving with sat nav and adjusting involves: about 40 srews and 13 plugs and soldering and drilling a hole in the top to allow access to adjust note: whilst possible on a post 1995 car it would not be easy as the components became surface mount with different components, there is no adjustment pot and no one has jet published a how to guide to identify the resister

Unlikely to be a thermostat problem more likely to be a water leak the water must be going somewhere look in the passenger footwell look on the floor under the car look in the oil cap try putting lots more water in and seeing where the steam is coming from, succh as back of engine, front of engine, radiator etc

uk clocks show both mph and kmph. if its a single scale going up to 180 somethings per hour it is most likely jap clocks. where does it say mph? when converters are used its common to fit a small black sticker in the centre of the dial over the kmph or use a black pen to colour in the K

ah, but in the series 2 you still select the temperature you want the car to be, and the car decides what temperature air to blow. in mine i can select the temperature of the air. i tend to prefer a gentle breeze that is constant and slightly cooler than ambient and having had manual, auto seriees 1 and auto series 2 i prefer the manual. must admit the series 2 is so much beter than series 1

no you can't easily change them. none of the sensors are in place for the automatic air con and the little motors that move the air doors are different. i actually prefer the manual air con control. i can pick the temperature i want it, where i want it and how fast i want it