ianl

well seeing as that's my old car....... gauges: http://prosportgauges.com/blue/White_performance_gauges.aspx pod: http://www.zcentre.co.uk/shop/product_info.php?cPath=21_43_69&products_id=342

what i think is happening is that the working one is working fine the other ones relay is not providing power therefore due to the way they work the electricity flows through all 3 of the dim ones in series therefore unplugging the plug from any of the 3 dim ones will make all 3 go out

no, you will still have the problem, possibly worse. i remember someone having a similar problem a while ago, no idea if they fixed it read my reply in the following post and see if it matches your problem http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=120976

the earth for the main beam and the earth for the dipped beam both go back to the changeover relay in the big engine fusebox

thanks for all the suggestions next thing is, how to stop the sub sliding around in the boot......

hmm, got various different amps i can use. will look there tomorow. asume i just need to avoid screwing it to the fuel tank :)

possibly, could also use it as a heated booster seat :p

looking to instal an amp in my swb 300. would prefer it hidden other than on the shelf over the fuel tank with another shelf over the top where is a good place to hide an amp?

when my auto NA was converted to Manual , they fitted a TT box. remember the TT box has a heavier clutch and therefore the power assisted clutch pedal/master cylinder

i did two, one sliped back in fine. the other i had to remove the clocks so i could pull on the wiring loom whilst someone else sloted the pedal in. the plastic clip that holds the loom up had broken and let the loom sag and over the years it had got very used to where it was

attached to the rim behind the spokes, metal tube with right-angle bend. the end not attached to the rim is the bit i attach my tyre pump to - or i would if the cap wasnt coroded on

first off, i know nothing about wheels except they should be round one of my valve caps is stuck onto the valve i went to a tyre place to get the valve replaced, however they said i will need to source the metal right angle bit as all their valves stick out the front of the wheel and mine come from the rim behind the spokes these are my wheels: they say rays in the middle is this true? where would i get one? what other info do i need to know in order to get one?

i think he meant he met your son, and you are a top bird! lol

big hug, hope everything works out ok

i believe from having mine done (but i'm not a mechanic :) ) yes just run new pipe from master to slave the open pipe above the master cylender is the vaccuum line for the power assist to the clutch (assume you have a TT clutch pedal and cylinders) options are: leave it open and have a heavy clutch pedal use a T piece on the brake vacuum line after the non return valve. personally i believe this is what caused mine and others clutch booster to fail, but some "experts" tell me not. set up like this when it fails you also loose the power assist to the breaks get hold of all the tanks and pipes and a manual TT balance barand do it properly, but i believe this is unecesary as i'm led to believe the purpose of the tanks is to "store" vacuum in case you want to drop the clutch whilst the engine is boosting ie not producing vacuum get a manual TT balance bar, 2 bits of vacuum hose and a non return valve

if you ran an extra ground wire from each balast that was probably to bypass the dip beam / full beam relay so the HIDs stay on wwhen you full beam. the other relays involved are a left and right headlight relay

could be a low battery problem

front 6" rear probably 6"x4"

hmmm, fairly sure all UK were fronts driven straight off the head unit and rears off an in line amp. it's possible that it may have been an optional extra to get the bose fronts which have an amp built in to the speaker housing, but if you werent powering the amp you would get next to nothing quite likely if you still have stock fronts that they are knackered

didn't ralise the jap spec cruise had a top speed, thought its lowest speed was higher than a uk. the speed signal goes via the clocks to the main ecu and i think then on to the cruise ecu. if previously you had jap clocks with a speed converter then the signal to the main ecu is lower than it should be thus fooling the cruise ecu into thinking you havnt reached its top speed yet. changing to uk clocks with out the speed converter will mean the main ecu and therefore i guess the cruise ecu will see the real speed and do whatever they are programed to do (ie speed limiter and speed chimes) not sure whether you need a uk cruise ecu or a uk main ecu or just a rechiped main ecu

is yours uk or jap? LWB isn't it? what year? if it's a UK then i would say that your front speakers are not very quiet, it's your rear speakers being very loud due to the in line amp.

older ecu fitted as newer ones don't work properly with conzult and i had some problems i wanted to fix, although from talking to Jeff recently there is a way to use conzult with latter ecus although nissan went from 8 bit to 16 bit (whether this was a true change to OBD2 or some sort of forerunner i'm not sure) they continued to use the OBD1 connector.

not sure you need the loom. the main ECU and the diagnostic port use the same connector throughout production i have a series 1 ecu plugged into my series 4 car

series 4 speedo face is slightly different, the 2 lower mounting points are in a very slightly different place, when i changed my face i elongated the bottom holes a bit and added a dab of superglue a lot of the series 4 speedo is surface mount components and the circuit is different, amongst other things there is no adjustment pot (variable resistor) it would be possible to change the correct resistor but: afaik there is no "how to" you would have to work out which resistor and what value to change it to you have to be able to solder surface mount

looks to me like a replacement for the valve in the pipework under the bonnet. if the hissing is from near the pedal then you probably need a new booster at about £400