ianl

if you don't connect the remote socket on the amp to 12v then the amp will never come on very few headunits have a dedicated output to turn amplifiers on, most people use the output on the headunit meant for the electric aerial. other options would be to connect to the ignition feed to the headunit and then the amp would only be on when the car is on i wouldnt advise a switch from the battery feed as it would be easy to forget to turn it off and flatten the battery

wasn't me, i dont get up that early

blue K reg in guildford about 5pm today (4th) i wasn't in a zed or i would of waved, was in the work car which is too embarasing to wave at anyone

have you checked there is a ground wire to the stereo, the stereo could be grounding elsewhere without it but not well enough to turn the amps on? have you checked the preamp is not turned off in the headunit menu? are you trying to listen to radio and forgot to plug the aerial in?

asuming you got the blue switched 12v and not the blue speaker wire

just had a look at a previous post i made on this subject, the green one with the grey dot is the power to the amp. join it to the electric aerial feed which should be a black wire with a red stripe along it and a grey dot in the middle of the 10 pin connector behind the yellow wire - be carefull there are two wires coloured the same

i have the origonal stereo from my 95 jap in the garage with the cut off loom still in it. its one of them two for shure. cant remember what the other one did, not sure i ever found out, cant have been important

ah, one grey and one green with a grey stripe?

is it a uk or jap and what age? if you look at the 300zx stereo loom it has 2 plugs, one has 10 pins but is made to look like one 4 pin and one 6pin the other is a 6 pin, this is the one i think you want , it will probably have 5 wires connected, one row will have 2 wires, the other row will have 3 wires, the 3rd wire is the one you want

green with a grey stripe?

on the origonal 300zx connectors, there is a 6 way connector that includes 4 speaker wires. one of the other 2 pins will also be wired, this is the power to the bose amp, this wire does not exist in the standard adapter feed it with a switched 12v (ie join it to the electric ariel feed or ignition) also worth bearing in mind that the ground (0volt) wire did not exist in the 300zx loom, ground conection was done by a wire bolted to the head unit and pluged into a crimp on the chasis behind the stereo

tick tock

wasn't last to leave , but everyone else went right at the crossroads and only 2 of us went straight on

of course we were :) and yes it was me think it was the one parked outside the pub he said: a) nice car b) if you were considering doing 100mph on a country road he advises checking the car behind isnt a marked police car (i looked at the max speed on my satnav and decided he was speaking hypothetically and thought it best to agree) c) don't brake on bends , it destabalises the car and he has to fish the car out of a ditch d) had we been at the pub? drinking beer? e) have a nice day

i've seen him live a few times back in the 90s. amazing show, and he does a lot more than what he did tonight

real men don't need instruction manuals! or hang on was that real men refuse to use instruction manuals? did you know the electric seat goes up and down too?

my slicktop swb only has a bottle in the boot my vert swb only has a front bottle (possibly because it has no rear washer)

i asume you know that you need the headlights on to wash them?

also series 4 turbo clocks didn't have a turbo gauge

series 4 wasnt available in the uk and the series 4 clocks are completely different - surface mount components different connectors and the individual clocks are different mountings

ok, as long as there's lunch availble :)

that won't work unless you fabricate a bracket to adjust the position of the sensor. one cog is bigger than the other, if you put the big cog in the small hole it dosent fit, if you put the small cog in the big hole it doesnt touch the other cog it needs to touch so doesnt go round

interesting, after my manual conversion i had heavy power steering at low speeds. the speedo converter gizmo was causing the speedo to not reed any speed below about 15mph. i guess this in conjunction with the neutral switch not being wired in and the clutch pedal plug not being in was causing the steering problem. i "solved" it by junking the speedo converter and fitting a 120mph dial

as well as the difference in the speedos, the N/A and the TT have different size cogs on the speed sensor due to the different rear diff. if your speedo is from a pre 1995 car then yes, change a resistor to get it roughly right and then adjust a variable resistor to get it acurate it's all writen up somewhere in the FAQ

i would suggest you just don't plug either in. if your steering is working fine now, it doesnt need to know if the car is a manual or not