ianl

if you want an exact fit, screw holes and everything, you need a 6". there are only 2 current makes that fit exactly, kicker is one of them. 6.5" fits in the hole fine but you will probably need to drill a couple of mounting holes if someone hasnt already

hmmm, dont think so, went to goodwood breakfasst club in the red one, other than that i dont think i've left guildford this year

this may or may not do what you want...... the stock nissan external amps are fed with speaker level signals not line level as aftermarket amps would be. ie the amp in your headunit runs into the amp in the boot. the origonal nissan headunit had a fairly low power amp in it and the system was obviously optimised for this. fitting a modern headunit with built in amplifier of many times the power of the origonal can easily overdrive the amp in the rear so it sounds distorted, or the rear can end up many times louder than the front my first upgrade used the rear amp but i felt it changed the sound so i bypassed it later (ie run speaker cable straight to the rear speakers) to wire it up you need to feed a switched 12v to one of the wires in the 6 way connector for the rear speakers. the above is only relevant to UK spec cars if you have the bose speakers and bose amps then these are less compatable as bose run speakers of lower impedance than standard and amps to match. hence a new headunit into a bose speaker could easily overdrive it and a bose amp into a new speaker will strugle to some extent to drive it

when fueling try holding the nozle at 45 degrees rather than vertical, i used to fill my last zed with the nozle upside down for this reason

i never realised the club was so young when i first visited back in 1999 or 2000 (can't remember exactly when i first broke my Zed) it's nice to hear from Craig and Nico, i don't remember them , but have heared the names lots over the years since i became a regular as someone who has never left , i too would like to see more investment in national events. (I don't necesarilly meen large financial investment , but obviously there has to be some funding to do anything) not digging at anyone , and i think Kim does an excelent job at JAE, but i thought it a shame when shows like Japshow and finale stoped being big shows for our club with a stall and banners etc

http://300zx.co.uk/cgi-bin/manual.cgi?list=el&dir=&config=&refresh=&direction=forward&scale=0&cycle=off&slide=63&design=default&total=133 and http://300zx.co.uk/cgi-bin/manual.cgi?list=el&dir=&config=&refresh=&direction=forward&scale=0&cycle=off&slide=40&design=default&total=133 and http://300zx.co.uk/cgi-bin/manual.cgi?list=el&dir=&config=&refresh=&direction=forward&scale=0&cycle=off&slide=57&design=default&total=133 are the most relevant pages

phone me, 07967 504828 and i'll talk you through stuff

but the drive is smooth and noisless, although the condition is aparently used

the 10A fuse in the footwell (check it again) feeds the switch on the pod, which in turn splits to feed many things - rear lights , interior lights, dash lights? , side lights, and the feed to the relay that selects dipped / main beam (default is main beam) if all the above lights are out then it really indicates the fault to be either that fuse or the switch on the control pod (are all the plugs in it properly? have you got a spare pod to swap out? once youve tried all that move on to the 3 relays in the engine bay 1 relay switches on left headlights, 1 relay switches on right headlights (both of these work as you get both full beams. 3rd relay (black?) towards the front of the fuse box is the one that switches between dipped and main beam

given it's free entry, i doubt youll get it much cheaper for a group booking

was wondering if the seris 4 clocks not having a turbo gauge, didnt have a conection for it. therefore if the series 5/6 brought back the turbo gauge then they might have had to change a connector to a bigger one

my 1995 auto had it. it was usually on, a switch on/near the gear nob switched it off and the light comes on dont forget to wind the milage on each year . you dont want all your mots having the same milage

mines an auto one if you wanted to check any differences on the sewries 4 1995 to 1998 there is no boost gauge so na/tt should be the same. not sure how that would affect you if you have a 1999 TT

yup thats what mine looks like. saves me working out how to get the photos from my phone to here auto dials have a few extra lights like the O/D off light

the big change to the dials was at series 4 1995 when they went surface mount components and changed the connectors and made them not very compatable with previous ones never having seen a 1999 spec i cant be shure, but i think theyre the same i have a series 4 clocks set in the garage , i could take a photo of if you want obviously all series 4 onwards are imports so wouldnt have come with the combined kph/mph dials so you would have to replace that if it hadnt already been done. that said, i dont think acurate speedo is part of the test, so you could always buy any kph/mph dial facia off ebay, cut a slit in it and slide it over yours for teh mot

i went 2 years ago, some of the other members went last year, i would of but had to work small show (ie 150 or so cars), not that much to do, but some beutiful rare cars turn up and theres a good pub 10 seconds walk away and yes there were club stands, but it was more of a turn up early and claim an area of the field

if theres the chance of a ride, can i bring my lid too? ( I asume Pete wasnt offering us all a chance to drive the car ) :)

what he said - If Andy has transport i'm up for it

i'm coincidently looking for a skip too getting quoted £150 for a mini 4yrd skip and £193 for a 6yrd midi - both off the road , £another £102 to have it on the road at that price i'm tempted to use my vert

got to admit , i was expecting at least one more day. i'm more interested in the trip there and back rather than the actual ring

the thought is that the "handbrake control" was either a secondary feature or a test facilaty there is some thought that its actually switched by the ECU depending on speed and maybe steering so it stifens when you corner hard. however some people rekon its not actually conected to the ECU i've not seen any proof either way myself although a look at the circuit diagram does suggest more going on

me

thursday about lunch time parked at the shops in fairlands, Guildford. a black zed with stock wheels

all the earths for the headlights go to the relay in the large fuse box under the bonnet. the relay decides whether you want dipped beam or full beam. the relay is earthed to the chassis under the fuse box

i like the hole to get the spare wheel out without having to move your speakers only one thing... your going to need a smaller spare wheel