John Dixon

That's good. Still got that little lean spot though it's narrowed right down.

As Stevo says, its a dodgy, crude bolt on that fiddles with the MAF signal to adjust the fuelling at different RPM points. 3 big problems with these: 1) It makes no account for engine load, so if you put 5% more signal on at full load on the dyno, you might then run mega rich in the mid range and loose loads of power / drivability. 2) The MAF signal isn't used directly to calculate pulsewidth, it just 'points' to a section of the map. This means that you still can't add more fuel than the richest load point on the map at the given RPM anyway. 3) The MAF signal also tells the timing maps where to access, so you mess the timing up too. At best, you'll retard it a bit and loose power (presuming you're trying to ADD fuel) at worst, you'll retard it a lot and get the EGR temps huge with possible exhaust valve damage.

Ideally the AFR curve should be a flat ~12.0 from about 4000rpm, dropping from the lean area at 3000. ~12.8 gives the maximum power, but you don't really want to run that close to the line. The lean ish bit between about 4500 and 5000rpm is seen on most Z's and is what I'm trying to get rid of on mine at the minute. A hot day won't lean it out, as you'll be getting less air in, but the charge temp, and so cyl temps will be higher, which will put you closer to detting. A richer mixture will hep to combat this. I'd start by checking your fuel pressure is OK, because unless that's a GMS chip it's unusual to run that lean

Jay, could be that starter heatshield rattling off the exhaust?

Think the pentroof one is urethane too.

Dunno where you are in the midlands, but I've got one (Kidderminster) if you want to pop over sometime. You do get some air passing through the throttles and the bleed on the idle valve, but if you use a small compressor you can get the pressure up enough to hear it bleed down. Or block the exhausts.

Yeah, should do. Remember to check the oil return too, it might be crapped up a bit as well.

Cheers for that. Mine's the smaller one, so maybe an earlier one would work better. Sure NISMO do bigger ones, but courtesy parts hasn't been working all day!

Thanks Eric, Any idea where I might get a bigger one? Maybe a GTR is the obvious place to start looking!!

Anyone know the diameter of the stock master cylinder? Thinking of trying to get a bigger one to improve the pedal with GTR callipars.

Pleased you found the problem eventually Steve.

Car will run rich off max boost when it's faulty as it pulls the PRVR system in all the time I think. You could bypass the PRVR until you get it sorted. Worth checking the continuity between the fuel rail and ground, as this can cause the problem if the earth strap is broken / not replaced.

Pete, that's the idle control valve/FICD on the left and the second thing is the cold temp warm up valve, not the EGR. It's the thing that allows extra air into the engine until it's up to temp. I think that metal pipe is bypassed, but can't remember off the top of my head.

Yeah Chris, be great if you could drop it with it next weekend. Don't need it for probably more than about 20 mins. What I'm trying to see is: 1) Are both chip enable and output enable pulsed, or is CE tied to gnd all the time. If they're both pulsed, is the freq the same, or is OE also used to activate other devices that share the address lines? 2) Are there other hit's or glitches on the address lines during the times when the EPROM is not active Paul, cheers for the offer. Where's Si (51x) these days, he probably knows something about this stuff. Anyone got a number for him?

Anyone with an Oscilliscope fancy meeting up so I can get my ECU on it and try to see why my emulator address watch isn't working? Think the processor is 8MHz, but I'm guessing bus speed is less than that.

Pleased you mentioned the upside down bulb thing. Sure I would have had to bring it up if you didn't :rolleyes: :p

It's not too loud with the middle boxes out if you keep the rear one(s) a decent size.

Easiest way to get anything through is go past the battery into the wheel arch, then remove the shroud, slit the rubber boot on the main loom and feed it through there, comes out in the passengers footwell by the ECU.

Lol :D

Try Johnny at GPS he's a big Blitz dealer (traders section)

That grounding kit's not hidden, it's just tied along the original cable runs to keep it neat :tongue: And no, the HICAS eliminator is still shiny - Oh the shame :o I've already been getting counselling from Mr Bling himself Bee Gee Vinz, it's just not helping. Maybe I'm too far gone :eek:

Lol, thanks for pointing all that out Alex, better get to work with the 40 grit sandpaper and remove all traces of the dreaded BLING :rolleyes: :D

Actually the photos were taken by me arty farty matey Friday. Took him about 20 minutes to get those just right!

Nah, there's nothing really on it that's not essential.

Someone wanted pics of how I'd reinforced mine after I bent it, so here you go. And before you say it Rich, no it's not F*****G BLING :mad: :D