John Dixon

Did look into doing this but unfortunately you need turbines that can withstand 1300°C each wheel costs about the same as a full greddy turbo kit! Basically you retard the timing and go mega rich when you want to spool them up, you then get the ECU to cut the spark to each cylinder in turn for about 75% of the time, this results in loads of fuel going in to the manifolds. Using a valve, the ECU then injects pressurised air from the inlet manifold straight into the exhaust manifold, this meets with the hot fuel mixture, which then ignites and spins the turbos up. Was going to try modifying the EGR system to do it. Another approach is to use a nitrous system to boost power until the turbos come in, not anti-lag as such but I'm sure it's effective and a lot kinder to the turbos.

I'll bring the ConZult along if anyone wants a check-out.

No probs Mate, see you there :D

Yep, Mike Feeney

Nah, Nisstek make their own that comes with it's own arms. MJP do stillen stuff, so worth trying Mike too.

Did you try Nisstek (SE?) they make a pretty nice one.

Not another one Lol. It's Rich's old ones, thought you might still want them for a pattern.

Probably coming too.

Kinda doubt it's lack of oil given the amount of smoke that was coming out of it! Could maybe be the return to the sump being blocked I suppose, meaning the same oil stayed in there and possibly overheated? Did you have any luck with warrenty

Did you go through the proper self-learn procedure with the EVC after you installed it, it's very important to get that right.

Changing it's awkward and messy but do-able. You need to take the radiator and the bottom engine trays out then you can get to it to work. I'd just get a 2nd hand unit, replacing the seals will probably be possible but it's pretty difficult.

Nice Idea Pete! If you want to supply it, I'll do the first session free for ya :) Ryan, here:TechEdge

Yeah, should be interesting. Planning on getting the fuelling close by tuning on the road first then get some dyno time to get the timing maps optimised. Suspect there's not too much more there top end, judging by the last results that's limited now by compressor flow. Having said that it does feel a hell of a lot better up there! Mid range should show up some definate improvement though.

Basically with this you use an xtronics romulator EPROM emulator, the software is an interface for that. You load a BIN file into the software, then it writes it to the emulator. Any changes are then altered in real time. After you've finished, you save the new BIN and burn it to a chip for long term use. Matt, no problem, drop me a line when you get it back.

Cool, I'll keep updating as I get anywhere.

Lol, actually worth checking there are no new witness marks on that edge I cut back. If there are then chamfer it a bit more. Felt OK to me mind.

Oops, guess there were still some shavings left in there! Try washing it out with some contact cleaner or something! Maybe you should let Lucie do it this time though ;)

Not to worry Steve, just sorry your turbo decided to expire :(

Finally tried out my mapping software in anger today. To say it was a result would be an understatement. :dance: :dance: Within an hour have got the idle rock steady (with 555's). AFR curve almost spot on from 4400rpm at high load, 16psi, slight bump to iron out just from 3500. Need to do some runs from lower revs as the throttle enrichment seemed to still be decaying when punching it at 3000rpm. Did some cautious tweaking of the timing which I had been conservative with previously Maps are properly extended to match the full rpm and TP range so can better control the parameters. Can honestly say the top end is noticably better and response in the mid range is awsome. Just need to add the map trace function now then it'll be sorted. Problem I'm having at the minute is I can't find a 3D map active X control I can distribute for free, and that's really helpful when adjusting the maps to check you've got no odd steps or bumps / depressions in there. Cheers to Leigh too for all the help and being the second grinning monkey when we got back :smw:

It's no 7 on the ECU, think it's red/green.

Damn, caught :o :D:D

I've seen the solenoid that operates it fail, never seen a stuck valve though.

EGR System is exhaust gas recirculation. It's a system used to reduce NOx emmissions by reducing cylinder temps below the point at which they are formed. It does this by replacing some of the air/fuel charge in the cylinder with exhaust gas (inert). As this inert gas dosen't burn then the amount of heat / cycle is reduced and chamber temperatures lower than they would be otherwise. The system is only active at mid engine speed and low loads. As cyl temps are lower then the mixture can be leaner when the system is active. This means that there is the potential to have detonation when it's removed. I have never seen this happen, but the potential is there, when I removed it I mapped a little more fuel in to compensate over the range where it operates. The downside is that as you're only fiilling say 90% of the cyl volume with combustible charge then you're loosing power. Won't hurt your dyno figures as it's not active at full power. Removing it is a bit of a bugger, unless it's broken or the engine is out, or you want to tidy up the engine bay I'd leave it. Lol, beat me to it by a few seconds Paul!

If you remove them all, cap the ones from the throttle body and from the turbo inlet pipe. Connect the one from the balance bar directly to the boost sensor Leave the ones to the AIV's and EGR open or cap them, up to you, makes no difference.

You can remove most of that stuff if you want. The solenoids are used to pull in the AIV's and EGR valve. Doesn't half neaten things up if you junk it all. If you want to keep it I'd suggest looking at someone elses car and copying it, pretty hard to read the diagrams in the manual anyway.