John Dixon

Just disconnect the solenoids and leave the plugs off. You don't want the pressure signal off the balance bar, it should be off the hard pipe leading to the throttle bodies (ie at compressor outlet pressure, not manifold pressure).

Chances are the plug just isn't on all the way at one end. The injector connectors are right at the end and it's pretty common to not be pushed all the way home

My BBS LM's are amazingly light. Can pick them up with one finger when there are no tyres on them. Heavy wheels have a big effect on the car. In straight line performance not so much as they're spinning a lot slower than the engine. The big downside is the increase in unsprung weight as this is weight that cannot be controlled by the suspension. Heavier parts lead to the suspension responding slower and basically upset the handling.

Congratulations mate :D

You can repair the PTU in most cases. Cut the back off, then you can see on one side (can't remember which) 2 small wires joined to a pad on the board, these are the main earth cables to the transistors. Tug them with a pair of fine tweezers and see if they'll lift. If they will then clean the silicone gunk off, and resolder them using aluminium solder. It's quite difficult to get it to flux, but it does work. I repaired mine 6 months ago and it's been fine since. I think Andy P has done a few as well.

I keep nearly buying another one a as a run around, but I just know I'd end up modding it again!

There are various alternatives to conZult, but TBH all the ones I've tried are no where near as good, it's a really good bit of software. As SRRAE syas, DTA are the maker / supplier

Seems daft to me to ignore the advice from the manufacturers who spent loads on research and a guy who has posted loads of reasonable, technically backed up advice for gut feelings etc.

A bit clunky when cold, and also a bit more prone to lock up when you're off the throttle. They also wear out eventually, but not too sure what the lifetime is. I love mine though.

The other option is to get a Cusco diff, as they do a 4.1 ratio ring gear too. You get the benefits (and the drawbacks) of a plate diff then too.

Hi Rich, Good to hear you're back mate, will give you a call soon.

Transferred some cash today.

There's a separate 2D timing map in the ECU for idle, I'm presuming it's used when hard idle closed or TPS Don't have the figures to hand, but it's 15deg upto x rpm then 25 afterwards. Still wouldn't explain this problem though. When it's off idle, does the conZult match the actual figure? Just wondering if it's a problem with conZult misinterpreting the figures, or if there really is an offset. The only way to know for sure is to see if it matches under some load. What I'm wondering is if conZult looks at the timing figures on the primary timing maps and shows those even if the actual figures are coming from the idle map. Eric ??

If you use an inductive timing light on the PTU loop, sometimes it will read wrong unless you pull the clip back. Do it off an HT lead plugged into No1 coil is best.

It's for putting the ECU into diagnostic mode. Look Here

Gorgeous :D

Jap spec does have an oil cooler, but it's tiny, best to upgrade. Chris at get greddy (trader on here) does a replacement. As far as I know, the box is the same. The UK has a diff oil cooler that the jap one doesn't. The other differences are mainly trivial stuff like different lights, Uk has adjustable rear shocks etc. Nice spec car BTW

Yeah deffo still want to brochure. cheers. It's pretty easy, drop me a line if you want and I'll talk you through it.

Good luck mate, will be over to visit.

Shouldn't steve, the red flash is you hitting the boost limiter. If the constant boost it reaches is OK, then try reducing the gain back a little. If the boost when it's settled is too high, reduce the setpoint a little. This is fairly common on autos as you're effectively full throttle shifting. A gain of around 18% is usually OK on autos.

Don't know Leigh, somehow it kinda suits you :tongue:

Don't assume det will always cause safety boost, it won't. The ECU only looks for det with a high sensitivity over a limited range of engine operation so you can have problems without triggering it. Also, when it first detects det it pulls 1° off the timing. Only when it has done this several times will it trigger safety boost anyway. The difference is obvious once you've heard both, but really hard to describe!!

Is it only under high load? If it is, could be detonation. Would need to hear it but if you're not sure, then take it easy as it will kill your engine. Could also be a heat shield rattling.

Think the iron ones are probably a bit stronger than the Ali ones, they flex a lot.

It should give more consistient pressures with temp as there's no moisture content in it. All F1 teams do it.