John Dixon

Lol, cheers.

Might be waiting a while but will probably post in progress pics if I take any. Like a kid with a new toy at the minute.

Chunk, see sig! No hassle with the other stuff. You get it set up on the way home?

Yes, the very one! Finally tracked one down. Should hopefully be here in the next few months (boat from Austrailia).

For letting me have this delivered there. Cheers Bud .......

Drop me a line if you're up bud, will go for a drink. Hope you get better soon!!

:cry: :cry: :cry:

You neeed to disconect the stock solenoids once you get it all working. Having said that, I'd have expected stock boost too with solenoid disconnected. Was it actually disconnected from the controller at the time? I'd double check all the plumbing first and make sure it's all clear. Also, try blowing through the solenoid and make sure it's passing OK.

Should be Open, it depends on which (pipe) connections you use. Actuator should be on Com, pressure feed on NO. That way, the fail mode is safety boost if the power is disconnected.

Used Mig. Apparently doing continuous welds is bad for this job for some reason. Guess you maybe stress everything too much and end up with a warped shell ?! Maybe I won't need it with my new lightweight engine :D

Dandrea in Kilmarnock were excellent when I lived up there. Pretty pricey though.

My grey one didn't look it when I pulled it apart. I did my 205 by just welding 1" then missing 1" along all the joins. Did seem to stiffen it up a bit. Just thinking with the Z being such a wobbly old thing it might help.

In my quest to actually make a decent driver's car out of my Z, was thinking of seam welding it. Anyone done it to their Z, and did it make much difference?

No, you don't need to bleed it differently. The HICAS is a separate circuit from the PAS, so it doesn't matter if there's air in there. Also, it will just circulate out as the HICAS solenoid moves. Just keep a close eye on the level after you've drained it, or run the HICAS test mode to clear it out.

Me & Hayley will probably be there, work allowing!

The differences are between series I and series II, not Jap and UK. As the other guys say, it should work when you change them, I've done an SII --> SI and that worked fine.

Could map the fuelling no problem, but could do it by remapping the ECU too. To get the timing spot on you do need to use an RR, but can still get it close on the road.

With unichip, you can't do away with the AFM as it just piggybacks the stock ECU which still needs the AFM for load calculations. You should be able to re-map it easily though.

Yeah, Dr Dave is about as good as they get.

Piggy back's don't offer any advantage over a properly mapped chip. They are a bit easier to adjust. I've been looking into ECU's recently because of putting the V8 in mine. DTA or Emerald are a good bet. The DTA particularly has loads of features for the cash. You're looking at well over £1k though.

Should be able yo get a lot more mid-range than the JWT tune, it's not even expanded at all on the load sites, so it runs the same timing from the equivalent air flow to ~12psi on stock turbos right the way up to your max boost!

The flow data I have suggested 540cc and 0.6ms void @ 14v For mapping, I use K=205, which would suggest 520cc (370 * 288/205), but works well, any smaller and you'd start to run out of enrichment (mapping for ~9.5 gives 12:1 AFR on my car)

Yeah, going to use the nissan VH45DE engine from the Infiniti Q45. Should be no big deal to keep running. Going to go for Hi comp pistons, racier cams and throttle bodies. Should see ~450bhp hopefully. Will also reduce the overall weight of the car and as it's lighter at the front, the weight distribution should be better too. Never know, I might end up with a Z that actually corners!

MORE bling!! What have you done, had the whole car chromed !?

I'm going the other way now. Sooo pissed of with lag that I just want that instant response you can only get off an NA engine. Just it's going to be 4.5l with 8 throttle bodies :D :D It's easy to see the big numbers off TT cars and assume it makes them better but the fact is that turbo engines can't match NA for driveability.