John Dixon

You can use conZult to operate them. The engine note should change if you do it on idle. You also might be able to hear each one work it you listen as you turn them on/off. Or disconnect one at a time then do the test and listen for the change.

The auto one has a couple more plugs on it for the slush box, but as you can convert auto to manual OK, it shouldn't matter.

Ah, sorry. Should really read things more carefully!!

Carb cleaner works pretty well, or isopropyl alcohol.

SPL do one, it's about £15

Yeah, I know what you mean about actually doing cadence braking, but it's not too hard. I personally had mine keep rolling on both my Z's with R34 brakes so disabled it, just didn't trust it after that.

You might be right, but wouldn't fancy trying to figure out the code.

Might do a write up when I do mine.

Might well be, but on the ZX it's probably best to bin it anyway due to the extra pipework that runs back / forward down the car.

This is exactly what I was describing happened to mine when I put the skyline brakes on then started to really use them, why my ABS has the fuse pulled at the minute and is soon going in the bin.

Done, thanks.

You can get rid of an awful lot of them too. Do a quick search, you can remove AIV, EGR, PRVR + operational solenoids.

Haven't got that one no, be good, thanks. First mag that's actually a pretty good replacement for CCC.

Anyone got a copy of issue 10, with the dry sump part II article? Wouldn't mind a copy to have a look at as I'm trying to design one at the minute (along with exhaust headers, intake lengths, engine mounts!!) They might be featuring my car as the build goes along too.

VH45DE only 500 :nana2:

TBH, your problem doesn't sound like PTU, as swbtt says, it's usually a dead cut. If it does turn out to be: Cut around the back with a stanley knife / dremmel. Off the PCB, there are several small ali wires. If it's a total failure, not one cyl, then the likely cause is that the main ground (2 wires together at one side) has come away from the bonding pad. Try to lift them. If they lift, then you can resolder them with ali solder after cleaning the gunk off.

I made up a smaller bottle that doesn't impede the flow at all. Junking the carbon cannister also helps.

It's in one of the turbo oil feed lines

No probs Graeme

No problem mate. I think you'll like it.

GMS maps were a bit crude from the ones I've seen before.

Hi Graeme, give me a buzz mate and will talk you through it. Do you still want a conZult done? Now the light nights are coming I can pop over one night.

The cam saddles were fine until I took the angle grinder to them :rolleyes: :rofl: why oh why use bloody torx heads.

Yeah, kinda thinking I might need an extra box on the exhaust ! Can't wait to hear it though. The induction noise should be awsome.

Cheers everyone, will keep posting as it's going along. As for max bhp, I'm not too sure. Stock with modified intake etc should see about 350, with new cams and hi comp pistons, then 450 should be very possible (~100bhp/l). It's not really the point of this though, I'm trying to get away from forced induction as I want that instant throttle response and linearity that you only get from N/A. If you really must turbo / SC them, it can be done. Albert uses his for salt flat racing and it's apparently ~2000 bhp (blown obviously)