John Dixon

Think that's the one just up above the rack, where the pipes run to.

Just got some adjustable camber arms and a gauge so I can set them. Anyone who's done it (or used the shims) tell me roughly what length / spacer size they used as a starting point? Was thinking with the arms being a bit shorter, the dynamic camber change is going to be greater, so probably best to aim for the lower side of the spec.

I got the 2AO in kit form because I'm a tight arse :D 2B0 wasn't available at the time

Nice to see you've got it back, hope it all goes well :)

You've probably knackered the MAF. Sounds likely with the filter being wet. Happened to mine a few years back with a Blitz filter. The HKS filters are notorious for it.

Here Think the AU$ rate is still good too :)

Be keeping the lambda setup Mark. Going to use it for full closed loop control on the emerald ECU. The profec just needs an additional harness to log other stuff, it's only about £15.

Yes, I got the tech edge WBO2 one, works a treat. It gives a 0-5v 9-19AFR output that I've got on the profec. I also use the tech edge logging software to log AFR, RPM, MAF volts and TPS. It'll take EGR and charge temp type k couples too, but I'm not bothering now as the profec is going. The profec will log all 3 displayed channels against time, but you get RPM and AFR together. TBH from a tuning point, the tech edge s/w is better because you can get a matrix of AFR vs RPM and load of some sort.

Looks a bit like a 307cc from that angle!

If I was staying with turbo I'd probably go with 530's as well. Be surprised if you get 500rwhp but you'll get plenty. The GT2530 makes about the same top end power, but looks a little more laggy. GMS do a GT550 which looks similar to the 530's but a bit cheaper, guess you're not paying for the JWT name. You might want to look at manifolds too.

Most awkward job I've seen for bloody ages!! Pleased it went well though, will be interesting on a dry road!

Stops oil starvation if you move all the oil away from the pickup (only for a short while though)

Try Deemon tweeks or Rally design. I presume you want this for doughnuts :confused: If so, you might want to look at an oil pressure accumulator.

I've got an S2 so I just got a set of S2 UK clocks, they plug straight in. Think 99 are probably the same, but wouldn't swear to it. Hard to get 2nd hand, I think new is about £300

No, it's worth doing anyway. The steering is way too light with converters. It's speed dependant and the steering ECU receives a signal from the speedo cluster to make it think the car is travelling slower than it actually is.

Buy a different car! Failing that: Poly bush everything, lots of the old bushes get soft. You can now get a complete rear arm set too (Try ZCentre). Especially important are the rear subframe mounts and front lower arm ones. Rose jointed front arms help alot. I prefer mine adjusted a little shorter than the stock ones to put a bit more castor on and load up the steering. Remove the HICAS. If you have a speedo converter junk it and fit UK clocks. I've got a plate diff on mine, its a matter of taste, but certainly helps with traction out of bends. Shocks and springs obviously make a big difference. Going to get uprated anti roll bars soon to try too. If it's lowered, replace the front upper arms with adjustable, and get the camber set. The stock ones are usually quite worn anyway, so worth replacing. One of the biggest things is just get all the geometry set up properly once it's all done

Funny, I was going to do exactly the same thing on my blue one!

Put a photoshop in my rides if anyone wants a look. Luke's doing a group buy at the minute.

If it only happens when wet/cold then it could well be bad contacts. If the sensor is shot you'll need to replace it which is a bugger. Can be bypassed with a resistor (10mohm I think) but not recommended.

Code 34 isn't set, it's a bad detonation sensor or wiring. The ECU doesn't give an error code if det is detected.

Did you hear it det, or did it just go into safety boost? If it's detting at 15psi with a JWT chip, then it's most likely you have a problem with either fuel pressure of badly adjusted timing, I'd get that checked out before you spend cash on a dyno. Did it just suddenly start happening? JWT chips are really safe in the timing, so should be no problem. Also, are you sure that you're indicated 15psi really is 15psi?

Check all the pipes that are connected to the one you've tee'd into, as a leak in one of them will give a bad reading.

I'd be very surprised if the ecu is remapped with the speed limit left on. As SRRAE says, it's not necessarily removed, but I don't know why you would leave it on if you remapped it.

That's why you won the award :D

Yeah, perfectly safe. One of the best things you can do!