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John Dixon

Dormant Member
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Everything posted by John Dixon

  1. I've got the whiteline ones on mine. Got to learn to drive the car all over again, but do make a big improvement.
  2. No, at the bottom end you loose torque/power as you're still at the same boost (or vacuum) levels generally. At higher rpm you can run more boost so make more power/torque. It is a trade off though. On a road car, best stick to smallish turbos and relatively low boost levels + highish CR to keep it driveable.
  3. It just means you can run higher boost safely.
  4. Mainly, CR and octane dictate the boost you can run safely (as long as you're in the efficient region of your tubs). Dropping the CR allows you to run higher boost. You're right though, you loose power at the same boost level (or off boost). Really low CR, laggy turbo cars are hideous.
  5. Leon made my single exit (SWB), and again it's incredible. One of the few people these days who takes genuine pride in his work.
  6. Yeah, you'll max out your injectors. If you don't want to shell out on injectors you can try an adjustable FPR to get a bit more, but the only way to know for sure is get it hooked up to a wideband and check (I have one). SAFC is a crude and horrible way to tune. It makes no allowance for load, and the corrections you need at full throttle will be nothing like you need at low load for the same RPM. They also mess up the timing.
  7. Happy birthday mate, hope it's a good one.
  8. If it's a 2530 and not GT2530 then they're non BB turbos, so more laggy than the GT2530. Depends if you want to live with that really.
  9. 205Gti 1.9 still miss it sometimes :(
  10. TCS only uses the ABS sensors, no reason it should need the ABS system its self - would need to try it and see just to make sure, but I'm pretty sure the wheel sensors are just inductive and don't need powered externally.
  11. Mike Feeny (MJP in the traders section sells them) they're cheap. Think it's 32mm from memory
  12. Leon at Alunox uses it to build exhausts so he can get you some (01978366774). It's £££ though!
  13. Leon at Alunox does some 01978366774
  14. Must say Greg, didn't really notice until we left Ztech the other day, but your's is one of the nicest Z's I've seen. Just kinda subtle
  15. Doh! You must have beat me by a few seconds.
  16. The best way is to buy a single HT lead, then run that between No1 plug and coil pack. Clamp the gun on there.
  17. No probs Paul, pleased we got it all done.
  18. It's sold, cheers
  19. As long as too much Jack Daniels doesn't do it I'll be fine! :dance: Cheerz everyone
  20. When it's running at low load / speed and target AFR is >14.7:1 (leaner than stoichiometric) then the ECU compares the actual AFR as read from the lambda sensor with the target. To correct the difference, it calculates a correction factor which it then adds to all injector pulses across the entire fuel map. Not entirely sure about how the calc is performed, but it's likely to be an incremental thing that is modified on each pass over a site.
  21. Cheers guys. The old 30 just keeps creeping up !!
  22. Wouldn't bother with the SAFC either, waste of time and nothing that can't be done with proper mapping. As Jock says, best really to concentrate on brakes & suspension before doing much to up the power, it'll be a far better car. I'd look at poly bushes, rose jointed tie arms and shocks / springs at least.
  23. The relief valve may be part of the under bonnet solenoid assy. You could possibly blank the 2 lines running to the back of the car if so, but then you'd still be using more energy than just looping it if it's going through a PRV
  24. If you still have a supply to the pump, then don't just cap it. It will most likely blow the cap off, these pumps produce a resonable pressure as they're positive displacement types. You could just loop the feed / return on the pump together with a short piece of pipe, or remove the veins.
  25. There's 2 options: 1) Remove the veins from the rear pump impeller then blank all lines. 2) Take the high pressure return from the rear pump chamber and plumb it straight back into the tank (into the spare 10mm spigot) Or as Jock says, use an NA pump, but you'll need all the brackets etc. too (I did this on mine)

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