John Dixon

Do a search on PRVR removal. Best bet is to bypass it. TBH I'd be careful driving the car until you sort it. If there's fuel coming out of it, then the diaphram in your pressure regulator must be shot, so it needs replacing.

Happy birthday mate, hope this year brings you better luck!! You really will look like your grandad soon :tongue:

I think the ECU interprets the CAS signal then sends a tach pulse out. It should appear on one of the plugs that connects the engine loom to the body loom.

The front upper bushes are actually bearings, not just bushes. Probably best to just buy adjustable arms like the powertrix or SPL ones when they go, as it's not much more expensive than replacing the OEM bearings.

I can do it for you if you want. Drop me a PM.

Isn't it just easiest to give the machine shop the originals to copy / measure? If not, I guess brembo might give you the specs if you called them?

Be interested if you find anything, I've never seen a set with them on!!

Nice one. Bet yours is finished months before mine!

Why go for HKS or Blitz? You're just paying for the name. The Blitz isn't even stainless.

Two of the ones on the RHS are deffo what I said because I've just removed my engine bay loom and saved them for tie-ins to the emerald

Think the LHS are auto box and the RHS are where the engine loom connects to the chassis one for power, fuel pump etc.

Biggest problem I can see with a horizontally split FMIC is that one side is nearly always going to cool better unless you do huge bumper mods. Better to split it vertically, at least then both cores will be equally 'masked' by the bumper

Go for a single exit. Have one on mine that does exactly what you describe. 4" 316L pipework right from the downpipes with a 4 1/2" box on the back. Custom made by Leon at Alunox in wrexham (01978366774). The blitz is mild steel!

Yeah, lets hope so. As you say, these things can take for ever!! Expecting to have to do a fair bit of dyno work on things like exhaust manifolds and intake lengths too once it's all bolted together. TBH, I don't find it that hard to believe you pulled off him like that. The sort of mid-range torque you're generating will see most things off under the right conditions. Be a bit exciting in the wet I imagine. Was it a GTO(2.5l) or a GTO3/3R/M400? Think the M400 would be a struggle.

Nah, not interested in straight line stuff, it's going to have a short diff on it, so will probably top out quite quickly. That's presuming I even get it finished for then, rate things are going recently, might make it for 2010 :rolleyes: Will be interesting to see where the different strengths / weaknesses of each setup lie though. Normally reckoned a turbo car, all else being equal needs about 30% more power than an NA to stay in touch on the circuit (obviously not drag, very long straight circuits etc.)

Nurburgring sound like a good test when they're both finished ?

Just remember too, if you're running a noz kit you really need a twin map ECu as you'll have to retard the timing a fair bit with a big charge. If you do a single map for noz then it'll be down on power when you're not using it.

An aftermarket ECu is probably OTT for those mods, a re-programmed (chipped) stock one is fine. Obviously an aftermarket is easier to re-programm, but also more sensitive to changes. Because the stock one uses MAF for load reference it compensates a little for changes. With a TPS/MAP type system you really need to re-tune for every change. Having said that, if you fit the 555's / 530s you will need it re-chipped! Very few people I know of can modify the stock ECu on the dyno (I can). If you do want to go down the aftermarket route, I've done new trigger disks for the CAS that will work with the Emerald M3d, and am planning to make up a conversion harness so that it'll be sort of plug and play, but also reversible.

You selling it Jeff? Be interested if you are.

You need to set them to 0.8mm Paul.

Colder plugs are det protection. Basically the electrode on the plugs is one of the likeliest hot spots inside the combustion chamber that can cause pre ignition. NGK recommend going one heat range cooler for ecah additional 50-100bhp. I ran ZFR7F-11 copper plugs in mine when I upped the boost with no problems. Think the closest Irridium is BKR7EIX-11, but the projection is not so good.

Is there a HICAS solenoid on the RHS of the engine bay by the PAS fluid resevoir. If not and its the electric version, I think you just have to pull the fuse to disable it.

This thing really is brilliant. All the work Leon has done is really impressive. Even small parts like the pedals brackets and stuff are so well made. It's bloody quick too :D

Yes, you still need the bar. The easiest way is to cut the end off the bajo fitting to the solenoid, then jubilee clip a short piece of hose to that. Use a pipe cutter to remove the end or you'll get swarf into the system.

There are a few options: 1) NA Pump: junk the lot, solenoid, safety valve all pipework. Total PITA to remove pipework and fit NA pump 2) Leave existing pump in place, but loop feed to soleniod back to tank. Can then remove solenoid, safety valve and pipework if desired. 2) Leave existing pump in place, but remove veins from back impeller. As above but more hassle and no real advantage. Slight reduction in parasitic losses due to not circulating fluid (negligable). 3) loop pipes under rear of car. Leave everything else as it is. I'd go for option 2, then remove the soleniod and rubber hoses, leave the metal pipes under the car. Removing it makes the back much more predictable, not more jumpy unless something is not fitted properly.